Johnson RDS 26 5 40HP In a world of Flywheel Pain....

[robmurray]

Hi, <br />OLD Johnson RDS-26-S 40HP Super Quiet Electric Start)(<br /><br />Firstly many thanks to the previous posts who identified the problem was the coil. On to the new problems..<br /><br />1) How do I secure the flywheel while attempting to remove the nut? So far I have broken part of the case, two screwdrivers, a chisel and my friends little finger (seriously) !! Am I missing something or do we merely jam something in a cog of the flywheel while turning the other way?<br /><br />2) The big nut on the top. Do I need a special tool or is a standard steering wheel type remover with a whopping breaker bar all I need? By breaker bar I mean a big metal pipe where I shove one end of the metal bar from the puller and apply great force?<br /><br />3) Once off, is it hard to replace the coil?<br /><br />Many thanks once again<br />A tired and frustrated old johnson owner<br />Rob (ps I live in Australia so excuse the terminology if it sounds a bit odd)

 

[OBJ]

Re: Johnson RDS 26 5 40HP In a world of Flywheel Pain....

Rob...use a stap wrench to hold the flywheel. There is also a special tool that can be used and is made for holding flywheels for nut removal/installation. Flywheel nuts are standard size US SAE sizes. Coils are not hard to replace once the flywheel is off. Also, a three point puller is also of help to get the flywheel off.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Johnson RDS 26 5 40HP In a world of Flywheel Pain....

Hi Rob,<br /> Lacking a strap wrench, try this trick - shove about 1-foot of NYLON rope into one of the spark plug holes so that the piston compresses against it on the upstroke. It should hold the flywheel from turning...<br /> You'll then need a 3-point puller to remove the flywheel - pulling on the hub only using the three small holes (1/4"-20 bolts) just outside the center. Never use a puller that pulls on the outer rim...<br />- Scott

 

[robmurray]

Re: Johnson RDS 26 5 40HP In a world of Flywheel Pain....

Many thanks to the quick replies.<br /><br />One further question, from what I have read it sounds like taking off the flywheel is worse than taking off the nut? Is this correct?<br /><br />What will happen if we pull on the edges of the flywheel itself? I am presuming very bad things?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson RDS 26 5 40HP In a world of Flywheel Pain....

RobMurray.... DO NOT attempt to pull on the edges of the flywheel as that will destroy the flywheel. As ChineWalker states, use only the three point puller that utilizes bolts which inserts into the threaded holes surrounding the flywheel nut.<br /><br />To hold the flywheel (if it has teeth), I use a automotive mechanics flywheel turning tool. It is normally used to turn the flywheel when installing a manual clutch pressure plate. This allows me to grab and secure the flywheel when removing or installing.<br /><br />The flywheel must (absolutely) be torqued to exactly 105 foot pounds upon re-installing it. Anything less will result in a sheared flywheel key and damage to the crankshaft and flywheel tapers.<br /><br />The metal vertical (yoke) portion of the coil must be aligned with the inside bevel portion of the aluminum plate that it is attached to. I know that sounds confusing.... With the old coil removed, look closely at the aluminum plate that it sat on. You'll see a slight bevel there at the top edge. The metal of the coil must be right at those edges.<br /><br />For reference, the coil closest to the carburetor is the top cylinder coil.