johnson v6 I/O with rusted cylinder wall

[markf96]

Hey everyone long time lurker, first time poster. I'll just go ahead and jump right in. I have zero experience working with I/
Os so I really took a leap with this one. I bought what i presume to be a late 60s early 70s Johnson Sea Sport II off a guy for $150 (Couldn't resist for the price). there's very little info on the inter webs available about these boats, but I have determined that it is Buick 225 v6 155 hp.

So anyway the guy told me the engine was frozen (hence the price tag), and in an attempt to unfreeze it, he put an impact on the harmonic balancer bolt and then proceeded to snap the head of it off inside the crank. Before I spent too much time extracting that bad boy, I figure I'd open it up and see what i was working with. Took the valve covers off and except for some VERY light surface right, everything looked good. Took the intake manifold off and everything there looked good. took the cylinder head off and boom there it was. one very rusted cylinder (pictures below). Currently, the cylinder is filled up with white vinegar. This is the first time I've dealt with something like this so im seeking advice.

I know these OMC drives are obsolete and I know nothing at all about them, but am mechanically inclined. I dont even know what kind of condition this one is in. I couldn't find and name plates or serial numbers on it, but based on what I've read, (its white and from the 70s), its gotta be a stringer drive.

Should I just quit before I start burning money? Ive got like $200 ish in it including the purchase price so im not gonna lose too much sleep if i just eat that. I dont really think its worth the money to have the cylinder bored out so could the cylinder possibly be repaired by honing it? Im not completely opposed to pulling the engine out if it means it could be saved for the cheap. If I go that route, how hard is it to disconnect the outdrive and pull the engine?

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Bondo]

Should I just quit before I start burning money?

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,..... Not only is the drive obsolete,..... So is the motor,......

 

[markf96]

Of course. Well if that's the case, nothing much to lose by pouring rust remover in it, cleaning it best i can and putting it all back together. Maybe that would at least unfreeze it?

 

[southkogs]

You can tell exactly what you have by finding the ID tag on the engine block: assuming a 155HP the number should read something like HUE-15S. The Buick 225 wasn't rated 155 until about '67. Before that it was just a 150HP.

You're almost surely in an electric shift Stringer, which means ... you'll get laughed at a lot. I actually like the drives, but they are a little tough to deal with; you're the mechanic will have to do EVERYTHING; and they are vintage - or as Bondo says "obsolete." It's not going to be a drive it, wash it, put it away kinda' boat. You'll have to give it extra attention.

IF the hull is in GREAT shape - and I like the old Johnson hulls for the fun of it - then you can probably put an electric shift together by "frankensteining" your way along. Won't be cheap, but shouldn't be too crazy expensive.

If the hull is in crumby or questionable shape - then I would do a gut check. Do you want to restore a boat? If you do, are you going to rebuild the transom? If you're going to rebuild the transom, why not put a Merc or something in instead? (You can't do that in it's current construction). That would be expensive.

Long answer just a bit longer - if you want a project, then you can make this work but it'll run you a few thousand at least. If you want a boat to play in, this ain't your bag. Dump it and look for something that won't require as much attention even when it is working right.

Welcome aboard.

 

[markf96]

Thanks for the thoughtful response. I think for now, I'll pour some rust remover in the cylinder and if it ends up looking okay, throw it all, back together. If i can get it fired up, then I'll worry about that crank bolt.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Get a different block. Rust in the cylinder walls can only be fixed by machining. And the cylinder walls are not that thick

The block is the same as the old 225 "dauntless" motor that was sold to jeep, and continued with buick 231 from 1972 up to 1977 as the odd-fire motor

You already need a new crank (that broken bold is most likely the death of the crank) Most likely a few other internal engine parts

Personnaly, i would throw the 225 away, and go with a mid 80s 4.1 if you want to keep old and odd motors, may as well get something only 40 years old vs 60

The exhaust manifolds for old buick motors are rare as hens teeth

Then on top of that, you have the obsolete drive and a boat needing restoration.

 

[markf96]

Here’s a before picture and a picture of where I am after letting rust remover sit in it for the weekend. Honestly if I can get the raised rust off, I know the compression in that cylinder wouldn’t be great, but would it run???