Johnson Warning Buzzer

[mks8882]

My boat has an early 80's model 2-stroke 140 Johnson on it. When I put it in the river this weekend I found my cranking battery was weak so I grabbed one of my trolling batteries and hooked it up to get it going. Well soon as I turned the key on after swapping the battery over the buzzer came on (continuous buzz) and I figured it would go off after it started up, but it didn’t. I don’t think it would be temperature because the motor was cold until I started it and the buzzer never stopped sounding after it started up. Also the water coming out of the engine was cool. I hooked all the batteries back up like they originally were but the buzzer still sounds continuously. I have ran the boat and the motor hasn’t missed a lick and seems fine. Could a sensor for the buzzer be bad?

 

[mks8882]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

anyone? any suggestions would be great.

 

[Kevin Burrows]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

there is a little (white ?) wire coming out of your head near the bottom. A few inches up you'll see a rubber insulation jacket. this is the overheat warning sensor. If the isulation is worn or pulled up and one of the bear wires is touching the engine it is causing the horn. I can email you pictures if you need them. to test you warining system turn key to on, pull insulation back or sick a metal probe down in it and touch it to the engine (metal) this will set the horn off.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

Hi MKS....<br /><br />Your engine is equipped with two overheat sensors, one on each head. Look for a tan wire coming out of each head and those are the heat sensors.<br /><br />I think or it sounds like the horn module has gone bad but to make sure....<br /><br />Disconnect each heat sensor and turn the key on. Still blowing?<br /><br />Look for a double black wire coming into the engine pan from the reservoir. It will look like a lamp cord. Find the single plug connection to the engine harness and disconnect it. Still blowing?<br /><br />Find the harness from the VRO pump and disconnect it. Still blowing?<br /><br />If all these are disconnected and the module is still blowing, most likely the horn module is bad.<br /><br />One more question, you didn't even for a second hook up the battery backwards did you?

 

[mks8882]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

Thanks for the info guys! I already tried disconnecting the overheat sensor wires and it continues to go off. But I’ll make sure again tomorrow. <br /><br />OutboardJim, what reservoir are you talking about? <br />Also, if I’m thinking correctly the VRO pump is for mixing your oil and gas right? If so I don’t think I have one because I have to mix my oil and gas myself. <br />I don’t believe I hooked anything up backwards because I did it one terminal at a time. If I did, what could that cause? <br />Ok two more questions how hard is it to replace the horn module and where is it located?(inside the throttle box?) Thanks again for all your help!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

MK.... If your engine has the three wire type horn (black (ground), purple (12v supply), tan (sensors), with the horn sounding, remove the TAN wire from the horn. If the horn continues to sound, the horn is faulty and will require replacing.<br /><br />The wires should be connected to this three wire type horn as follows:<br /><br />(Warning Horn Wire Routing)<br />The three wire plastic warning horn that came into existence with the VRO era must have the wires connected in one manner only. To have them reversed results in having the horn omit erratic false warnings.<br /><br />Notice that the horn has two plug on type terminals and one black wire that is incorporated within the horn. The "TAN" (sensor) wire must be connected to the terminal closest to that black wire..... with the "PURPLE" (12v) wire connected to the terminal fartherest away from that black wire.

 

[mks8882]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

I just took the cover off the throttle box and found the horn with the tan, black, and purple wires. It also has a red wire going from the same terminal as the purple wire then through some wire loom toward the engine. Other than the red wire coming off the same terminal as the purple everything was hooked up correctly. I unplugged the tan wire and turned the key on and it still sounds. Or do I have to start the engine and then it should go off? I guess I’ll see if I can find one of these in town this afternoon and maybe that will take care of it. I’ll let you know if it works. Thanks for all the input!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

When removing the TAN wire, the engine should NOT be running. Just simply have the key in the on position.

 

[mks8882]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

I think the warning horn must be bad. It is 60 bucks in town, anybody know a site i can find it at for cheaper?

 

[mrtool2u]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

60.00 bucks,,I just priced one from my Johnny dealer,and his price was 53.00. My buzzer was melted,so I went to the local advanced auto parts store,and bought a 8.00 backup beeper for a car and wired it in under the dash,,and it works fine.It was a little more work that just replacing the original buzzer,but a hell of a lot cheaper.I shorted the beeper out,and it worked.It is just basically a 12 volt buzzer,and like I said,a little more work.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson Warning Buzzer

MrTool.... Good thinking. I've been wondering about what to suggest to replace that overpriced piece of plastic with. Your idea of using a backup beeper is great as those things are pretty loud.<br /><br />I would add that as a self test (since turning the key on would not make it sound), a wire could be run from the sensor side of the beeper to a push button or a momentarily toggle type switch to ground. Energizing that button or switch would cause the beeper to sound, alerting the operator that the system is operational.<br /><br />Ideal post MrTool.