keep motor tilted for storage

[RobertThoreson]

I have an fastwin 18, 1960ish, and was wondering if there is a better way to keep tho motor in the "up" position while it is at home? Right now I just wedge an adjustable wrench in between leg and clamps. That won't be possible on the road or if it's sitting in the shallow water

 

[YellowJacket1956]

First, tell me why you want to keep the motor tilted up while in storage? I do not know this particular motor, but when not in use sitting on a trailer, drainage issues suggest letting it hang in the vertical. If on the road and clearance is an issue, get one of those brackets that holds the lower unit up, braced against the trailer, relieving strain on the transom.If in shallow water and there is no tilt lock, save your wrench and insert a 2x4(?)

 

[flyingscott]

Those are held up by friction, try tightening the bolt where the motor pivots. But as far as trailering use a transom saver. You should store it in the running position.

 

[fhhuber]

The "transom savers" are to prevent the outboard from rocking up and down, which can build up momentum and rip the transom right out of the boat. (or break the engine's mount) leaving the engine to skid down the road behind you.

It is better to have the engine hanging in the vertical (normal running) position for storage.

 

[RobertThoreson]

Thanks, I don't have to travel far with it usually, the landing is 2 blocks away.

 

[jimmbo]

This application is the only place I would ever condone the use of a Transom Saver. We used to use a piece of 2X2 or 2X4 and a bungee cord to secure our 57 35hp in a tilted up position while trailering. In 58 OMC added a trailer lock to the 35.
For Storage, Leave it down

 

[boobie]

Down is the best position for storage. JMO.

 

[RobertThoreson]

Ik it is, but when it rains, I use the tilt on the trailer to help with drainage and the motor hits if it's not supported.

 

[jimmbo]

Ik it is, but when it rains, I use the tilt on the trailer to help with drainage and the motor hits if it's not supported.

If you had mentioned that in your first post, you would get answers more applicable.

 

[RobertThoreson]

Jim, isn't that the normal way to store these small boats? Tilt them up when it rains? And that's not realy the time I need it up the most. When in shallow water is when I'm most worried about it but now that ik I can tighten the pivot to keep it up, I'm all good.

 

[fhhuber]

Sure, tilt it and tent it.

Tent a tarp over it to keep leaves and stuff out... but let air circulate in and out. Trapped air means trapped water and that means mildew and rot.
Check at least monthly to ensure it can drain. Leaves plugging the drain can rot the boat.

Or pull the outboard and flip the boat if its a small aluminum one.

You can put the trailer tires up on car ramps to give the engine more clearance and let the outboard hang at its normal run angle (sometimes)

Larger boats often get stored with the engine tilted like a bass boat with a 150.

 

[phillnjack2]

when in storage keep the engine in the position you would have it when driving the boat (down).
firstly any fuel left in the carbs and bowls will settle at the bottom and not clog up any small passages.
oil in the gearbox will keep the gears lubricated, and it will not be putting strain on the engine bracket.
Now if you find the engine hits the floor when on trailer its a simple fix , raise the rear of the trailer on axle stands to give the room needed.
Now when you do put the trailer up on axle stands (something every trailer should be on when stored) it not only will give you the room but will also relieve the trailer suspension of strain over the storage period. if you use it weekly its not worth talking about, but over winter raise the trailer on stands and also raise the front by the hitch.
engine are not designed to be layed on their side or stored like that.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I have seen guys leave the outboard tilted in the up position storing over the winter. Not good especially in freezing conditions. Water can get into the exhaust and freeze leaving a nice crack when thawed.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

This application is the only place I would ever condone the use of a Transom Saver. We used to use a piece of 2X2 or 2X4 and a bungee cord to secure our 57 35hp in a tilted up position while trailering. In 58 OMC added a trailer lock to the 35.
For Storage, Leave it down

Why do you not condone the use of a transom saver? I wouldn't trailer my 115 horse Mariner without one. I have read that for whatever reason the boat slides back under tow damage is possible, what damage I don't recall, so I have a secondary clip on the chain leaving zero play in the safety chain.

 

[jimmbo]

Why do you not condone the use of a transom saver? I wouldn't trailer my 115 horse Mariner without one. I have read that for whatever reason the boat slides back under tow damage is possible, what damage I don't recall, so I have a secondary clip on the chain leaving zero play in the safety chain.

If the engine is held rigidly in place by hydraulics the so-called transom saver becomes a transom wrecker if the boat is not completely immobilized too. I don't know what year your 115 Mariner is. If it pre 1984, by all means use a Transom saver. The engine, even with power trim, when tilted up fully and the trailer lock is applied, will bounce up and down. If your 115 is post 1983, the power trim is used to secure the engine against the trailer lock. Here the engine is locked and not going to bounce around. Using a 'transom saver' here would place a lot of strain on the transom if the boat were to shift fore or aft on the trailer.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

y jimmbo
If the engine is held rigidly in place by hydraulics the so-called transom saver becomes a transom wrecker if the boat is not completely immobilized too. I don't know what year your 115 Mariner is. If it pre 1984, by all means use a Transom saver. The engine, even with power trim, when tilted up fully and the trailer lock is applied, will bounce up and down. If your 115 is post 1983, the power trim is used to secure the engine against the trailer lock. Here the engine is locked and not going to bounce around. Using a 'transom saver' here would place a lot of strain on the transom if the boat were to shift fore or aft on the trailer.

I understand what you are saying jimmbo. The outboard is a 1995 and has power trim. To lock in the transom saver the engine isn't tilted up much. So with the power trim the transom saver becomes redundant if I hear you right. I still don't like the idea of going down some of the dreadful dirt, pothole filled and rock access pathways not even roads to get to some lakes here in Ontario and NY, our highways are the best in the world though here in On. In my thinking the transom saver ensures no bouncing due to momentum being created once started ensures that can not happen. I don't see how a boat can more forward unless the mast moves, unlikely. Slipping backwards yes, I have seen it happen when there was water in the bilge slopping around on a pals boat but no damage, now I always pull the plug before trailering. Putting a secondary locking hook on the chain to take all slack out so it can't slip backwards was something I saw on Charlie Wray's Fishfull Thinking TV show (shameful plug, he is a buddy). I feel that would cover that issue. But I am always open to new suggestions and change. If I snapped my transom my fishing from that boat would be over, a new boat or major engine and transom repairs is not in the budget. Just thinking about that and hearing my outboard banging off the highway makes the hairs on my neck stand up.

What do you refer to when you say "the power trim is used to secure the engine against the trailer lock"? I see where I could slide a locking pin through the holes below the hydraulic cylinder which will stabilize the engine as long as it is not tilted too high or high enough. I am I guessing right? The boat isn't here otherwise I would go out and look at the set up.

I hope I didn't high jack this thread too much. Sorry OP.