Kohler 'K-series' engines - JD214

[UpstNYer]

Need some information regarding 'new' K-series engines and shortblocks that are available on the web. Engine is currently out of production. Are these 'new' engines/shortblocks built from 'old' but unused parts or are they built from new outsourced parts?<br /><br />Background (Warning...long and boring):<br />I have an old John Deere 214 lawn tractor that is in good shape...except for the engine. The connecting rod failed last week. It doesn't appear to have hurt the block, but the jury's still out on the crank. I had had the tractor and engine rebuilt last year at the local JD shop (where it was purchased used some 16 yrs ago) in hopes of getting another 6 or 7 years out of it. They did a good job on the tractor, but the engine rebuild was a mistake.<br /><br />When I went back to the shop with the pieces, the owner was apologetic and all and stated he was having problems getting good parts for the Kohler K-series engines (it's a K321AQS). As proof he pointed to his own JD 214 which he's rebuilding for the THIRD TIME (!) due to connecting rod failures. (BTW it's an aluminum rod that acts as its own rod bearing...no insert) He said he'd heard that the K-series rods were outsourced by Kohler to Mexico and have either dimensional or metalurgical problems. The upshot of all this is, even if the crank cleans up, a new rod is no guarantee of a fix.<br /><br />Was able to find both a new Kohler K321S and also a short block on the web. Both are pricey, but might be worth it if I can get another 8-10 years out of this thing. I've also got a JD210 that's in very good shape that the same shop rebuilt a few years ago. The K321S would fit in either tractor. This to explain why I'm so attached to these things. <br /><br />If I thought the 'new' K321S from the web would last as long as the old one, I'd buy it in a minute; even at nearly $1.5K for the complete engine & 1yr warranty. Short block is about half that but only comes with 90 day warranty.<br /><br />Sorry this is so long, but any iboater insight is welcome. <br />Bob

 

[ehenry]

Re: Kohler 'K-series' engines - JD214

Have you checked to see how mucha comprable Honda replacement would be? 1.5k for an engine that MIGHT have a defective connecting rod??? I don't think I'd go with.

 

[SoulWinner]

Re: Kohler 'K-series' engines - JD214

Hmmmmmm....This is disturbing. I just rebuilt my dads Kohler K series 10 Hp motor, with a .020 piston and new rod. If the new rod has a problem that is gonna suck. How many hours did you get out your rebuild before the rod let go? What part of the rod broke? Maybe the rod blts were improperly torqued....the shop that did the rebuild may need to have their torque wrench callibrated, or maybe they confused inch pounds with foot pounds. I am just putting this out there because the rod in a Kohler motor is darn stout, as is the crank shaft. If it was me I would order the parts to fix it from Kohler and do it myself. The shop manuals are pretty good for these motors, and there really isn't much to it. I made a valve spring compressor myself for working my dads engine, and the only other special service tools needed are a brass drift, and a ring compressor.

 

[LubeDude]

Re: Kohler 'K-series' engines - JD214

Just how did the rod fail?<br />-----------------------<br />

 

[UpstNYer]

Re: Kohler 'K-series' engines - JD214

The Rod failed right above the crank journal. The sections right and left of the rod shank at the journal broke. The pieces looked liked they'd been hammered quite a bit.<br /><br />Had about a year's use on it before it went...maybe 25 or 35 hours. I think it had a problem from the get go as it was noisy. There was a rap to it that the shop attributed to piston slap from a new style short skirt piston. Didn't sound exactly like a rod, too high pitched, but then maybe aluminum rods sound different. <br /><br />Shop owner claims the crank had very little wear when measured. He probably used a standard size rod.<br /><br />SoulWinner, if yours is quiet you may be alright. But you might want to check what's in the bottom of the pan after it's run 10 or 20 hours. The oil had a greyish color to it whenever I checked it. Should've known something was up. I've got the manual now; guess it wouldn't cost much to try to fix it once myself. It's worth a try if the crank cleans up.<br /><br />The failure mode for the shop owner's 214 was different. He said the engine seized the last two times it failed.