wil7483
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2007
- Messages
- 377
Well today I went outside and started from the beginning in an attempt to correct a very noisy lifter (in my opinion). I took the advise from others here on the forum and got an old valve cover and cut an opening in it to be able to adjust the rocker arms with the engine running. I started on the number 2 cylinder and worked to the far end of the head. Almost immediately I could see that they were too tight. When I got to the # 8 intake valve I had to loosen it almost 5 turns to get it too clatter and when it did the engine immediately gained almost 600 rpms on the tach and you could hear that it was as if it breathed a sigh of relief. Oh, that annoying noise went away instantly also. Once I got it tightened 1/2 turn I moved to the exhaust valve but every time I touched the nut with the socket the engine would die. I mean very minimum pressure on the nut would kill the engine. I did this like 8 times before I was able to get it loose to the point where it would clatter then it took me like eight attempts to get it tightened 1/2 turn.
Why do you think my touching this valve was killing the engine?
Also, after I got it almost where it sounded like a sewing machine I checked the timing and it was off. So I actually removed the distributor and reinstalled it by the instructions I got on here from another post. Then I set the timing again to 8 degrees BTDC. The engine sounds a lot better although once I got everything back together I started hearing a much more dimmer and fainter tick. Unlike the previous noise though this one goes away as you increase rpm's. Before it just made the tick louder.
Another question that I now have is, could the fact that the # 8 intake valve was so tight be the reason why I couldn't reach WOT rpm's with the 19P prop I was trying to spin? After much testing I settled on a 17P prop that would get me at about 4400 rpm's and 39-41 mph depending on conditions and trim settings. I have this strange feeling that now that I have adjusted those valves that I will be able to spin that 17P well above 5000 rpm's. Any opinions? I actually sold the 19P prop so I could invest in a 16P 4 blade prop but hope that I don't need it now. Hopefully the rain will end soon and I will be able to get the boat to the lake to see what difference all of this work has done.
Why do you think my touching this valve was killing the engine?
Also, after I got it almost where it sounded like a sewing machine I checked the timing and it was off. So I actually removed the distributor and reinstalled it by the instructions I got on here from another post. Then I set the timing again to 8 degrees BTDC. The engine sounds a lot better although once I got everything back together I started hearing a much more dimmer and fainter tick. Unlike the previous noise though this one goes away as you increase rpm's. Before it just made the tick louder.
Another question that I now have is, could the fact that the # 8 intake valve was so tight be the reason why I couldn't reach WOT rpm's with the 19P prop I was trying to spin? After much testing I settled on a 17P prop that would get me at about 4400 rpm's and 39-41 mph depending on conditions and trim settings. I have this strange feeling that now that I have adjusted those valves that I will be able to spin that 17P well above 5000 rpm's. Any opinions? I actually sold the 19P prop so I could invest in a 16P 4 blade prop but hope that I don't need it now. Hopefully the rain will end soon and I will be able to get the boat to the lake to see what difference all of this work has done.