Leak in behind the tilt/trim

[B.B.Upch]

Hey guys, I found lots of help on here in the past amd hoping for a little more...
so.i remodeled my 88 bayliner and put it on the water yesterday. After working on the motor, tilt/trim, trolling motor and putting all new wood and carpet thru out the boat we took it out for 2 hours. It did good other than an idle issue which I put in a different post and a small leak coming from under the tilt/trim. So when I fixed the tilt/trim i accidentally switched the toggle so when i thought I was going up it was going down.. before I realized it, it had pulled the quaking off the side of the tilt/trim and pulled the bottom away from the transom and inch or so.
now there are 2 holes where maybe the old set up was thats why it was quaked. U can see from the pictures. The left hole just below the one with the bolt where the tilt/trim is mounted is where the leak was.
how can I fix this? Can I just recauck the tilt/trim? Please any help would be great thanks

 

[GA_Boater]

Going full down on a CMC TnT unit would limit on the trim cylinders. I don't think the reversed TnT switch caused this.

Did you replace the transom wood during your redo?

 

[B.B.Upch]

No I didnt. I just did some mechanical stuff and wiring on motor amd tilt/trim. And I went down on a transom saver lol so the cylinder had plenty of room to go

 

[B.B.Upch]

How hard of job would it be to replace the transom? I didnt do anything with fiberglass. Just put down new wood for floor, seats & decks

 

[GA_Boater]

I still think you should check the transom. Even being stopped by the transom saver shouldn't pull the CMC away from the hull unless the bolts were loose or being pulled through the transom.

 

[B.B.Upch]

How do I go about checking it? I dont really know anything about the transom.

 

[GA_Boater]

I don't know anything about glass boats, I'm a tinhead. Someone will be along that knows.

 

[JASinIL2006]

From inside the boat, drill 1/4” holes into the transom, but take care to avoid drilling all the way thru the hull (e.g., if the transom is 2” thick, drill only 1.5”) in places where the wood is suspect, like near the bottom close to the hull and around any thru-hull fittings. Dry, light colored shavings are good, dark or damp shavings are bad.

 

[Scott Danforth]

How hard of job would it be to replace the transom? I didnt do anything with fiberglass. Just put down new wood for floor, seats & decks

so you put down a new floor and didnt fix the transom..... if the floor rotted, the transom long ago rotted.

 

[B.B.Upch]

so you put down a new floor and didnt fix the transom..... if the floor rotted, the transom long ago rotted.

Yes it was my first rebuild. From just looking at the transom it looks pretty solid and the motor is very solid. Wish I would have done this before I fixed the floor and back deck.

 

[B.B.Upch]

From inside the boat, drill 1/4” holes into the transom, but take care to avoid drilling all the way thru the hull (e.g., if the transom is 2” thick, drill only 1.5”) in places where the wood is suspect, like near the bottom close to the hull and around any thru-hull fittings. Dry, light colored shavings are good, dark or damp shavings are bad.

Yes it is rotted in lower section of the transom. Top section is good and why I didnt realize it and also why the motor is still really solid

 

[Scott Danforth]

the floor is the last thing to rot, always. the transom and stringers are the first thing to rot, years before the floor would ever get soft.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Yes it is rotted in lower section of the transom. Top section is good and why I didnt realize it and also why the motor is still really solid

That's a bummer, especially since you did your floor already. If you have rot and the transom is leaking, it really isn't solid, even if you can't see the motor moving. I might seem solid until it isn't, and then things can fall apart catastrophically.

Sounds like you have a project ahead of you...

 

[B.B.Upch]

That's a bummer, especially since you did your floor already. If you have rot and the transom is leaking, it really isn't solid, even if you can't see the motor moving. I might seem solid until it isn't, and then things can fall apart catastrophically.

Sounds like you have a project ahead of you...

Yeah after 2 weeks of doing all that work. Now I have to pull out half of it to get at the transom lol.
Anyone know how to do a boat like this? The fiberglass hull goes up and comes out toward the nose for the top deck. So the wood part of the transom is under the cap in between the fiberglass?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Probably need to post some pics from a ways back as well as a few more showing the areas in question.