Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

[MajBach]

Preamble: 2002 Maxum 2300 SC w/ Merc 305 Alpha I Gen II with less than 300 hrs. It's also equipped with that heat transfer thingy for salt water.

Hi, Fellas! So here is my situation. Last year was my first season with the boat above (2nd owner). It has low hours and I also had the dealer in Seattle give it a thorough tune up etc before I took delivery. They changed the impeller and steering pump, plugs and rotor and whatever else.

My first season with it (and an I/O) and there were not too many surprises. It kicks out a little smoke when I start it after its sat for a month and Ive noticed a reoccurring squeak about 50% of the time that is clearly connected to the serpentine belt that disappears once the engine is warm. My trim gauge also went U/S but Ive determined the part and procedure to fix it and deemed it unnecessary to replace until something else in that area needs remedying. Ive also purchased a full shop manual.

My reason for writing today is because I still feel very ?green? as to knowing and understanding this power train and applying timely preventative maintenance etc. The boat is stored indoors and always out of the water and there is sufficient room for me to work on it when required, however, ?our time together? is quite limited due to how far I am away from it so I need to go in ?prepared? as it were. Despite being a ?do-it-yourselfer?, even changing the oil on it for the first time will require me to do my homework ahead of time. And, Im paranoid about ?the risers?. Despite low hours, the boat is over a decade old and I am concerned about ensuring their operational condition.

So, I?m looking for some Spring check list type stuff here (and cant seem to find it). I did find the ?summerizing your winterized boat? but am hoping for something more. Another member also posted regarding his issues with manifold risers but his was a different engine than mine so I don?t know if the replies he obtained apply to me.

Anything helps, guys. From Step A to Z for what I need to change the oil, to torque settings for head bolts and gasket part numbers so that when I drive out there next week, I will have proper tools, parts and knowledge in hand, and, er?head.

Thanks a heap in advance.

 

[achris]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Define 'full shop manual'... (if it has the word 'seloc' or 'clymer' on it, forget it, it's a fire-starter or an expensive knee pad, but it is most definitely not a service manual.)

The things you call 'risers' are actually called 'elbows'. The older elbows have a life of around 5-7 years, the dry-joint... I don't know. I've had mine for 7 years and they are still good. I have a new set sitting under the work bench ready to go on... One day.

It would help a lot to have the engine serial number.

Also, are they dry-joint manifolds or the old style 'wet-joint'? Is the closed cooling system a full or half system? (does the closed water side also cool the exhaust manifolds?)

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Define 'full shop manual'... (if it has the word 'seloc' or 'clymer' on it, forget it, it's a fire-starter or an expensive knee pad, but it is most definitely not a service manual.)

The things you call 'risers' are actually called 'elbows'. The older elbows have a life of around 5-7 years, the dry-joint... I don't know. I've had mine for 7 years and they are still good. I have a new set sitting under the work bench ready to go on... One day.

It would help a lot to have the engine serial number.

Also, are they dry-joint manifolds or the old style 'wet-joint'? Is the closed cooling system a full or half system? (does the closed water side also cool the exhaust manifolds?)

Interesting. Your post does not display your caveat regarding Seloc and Clymer. Yes, I have one of those manuals but I also have Mercruiser shop manual. However, I find the latter reads like it assumes you are a fully licenced mechanic.

Wish I could answer your other questions. I will have to wait until next week when I get there. Thanks anyway.

 

[Don S]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

If you are expecting to find some all knowing download that will teach you everything about your engine and drive in a single click, it's not going to happen.

There is a LOT of info that you are asking about in the Stickies at the to of this forum. (first couple of threads)

Look at all of them, but pay particular attention to item #2. There is links to owners manuals that has maintenance schedules, how to's etc. and much more.

From you last reply,

I find the latter reads like it assumes you are a fully licenced mechanic.

He is

 

[achris]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Interesting. Your post does not display your caveat regarding Seloc and Clymer. Yes, I have one of those manuals but I also have Mercruiser shop manual. However, I find the latter reads like it assumes you are a fully licenced mechanic.

Wish I could answer your other questions. I will have to wait until next week when I get there. Thanks anyway.

Fortunately or unfortunately (I haven't decided yet) which is correct. The factory manuals are designed for factory trained 'technicians'. The more 'hobbyist' manuals (seloc and clymer) have far too many inaccuracies and omissions to be of any use.

So, you have a choice. A manual that doesn't give you pretty pictures or 'hand-holding' step-by-step; or a manual that WILL hold your hand, while leading you up the garden path... :facepalm:

Cheers,

Chris....

He is

Was....

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Still doing some homework in my spare time on Mercruisers and I/Os in general, esp. the cooling system. I'm reading a couple of printouts I made on the subject from these forums and I notice there seems to be a lot of opinions on life expectancy of risers etc. what I do not see though is if there is a difference in the type of system you have, ie raw water cooled vs one with a heat exchanger like the one I have. My engine is over a decade old but has less than 200 hrs on it and I am erring on the side of caution that these are all saltwater. Does the 4 year life expectancy to risers still apply?

 

[Don S]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Manifolds and elbows don't have a life expectancy like an impeller or bellows. They are iron, and unless they plug up or rust out, they could last longer than the boat. Depends on use, type of water, etc.
There is no one answer fits all.

If you want to inspect them, pull the elbows and inspect the passages, if they are plugging up and you are starting to overheat, then it's replacement time. you also have to look at the gasket surfaces where the elbow and manifolds meet. They corrode away to.
To far and you have water in your cylinders, clean the rust out of the passages and the next step is water in the cylinders.

If you boat in salt water, it might be a good idea after 5 or 6 years to pull the elbows and have a look.

If you boat in fresh water, they may never go bad or have a problem.

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

**UPDATE**

Well, I am home now after spending several days with the boat and not even getting it into the water

It was one exceptional learning experience and rest of my patience and resolve. I can't recall a period when I used colorful expletives so frequently. It seemed to be one thing go wrong after another and on several occasions, I found myself asking "...is this worth it?".

There were several other chores I had to complete -not just maintenance - like installing a new sonar unit, but the engine maintenance really took the longest and was the most challenging. Just changing the oil and filter took at least 4 hours! First, it took several minutes to even find the damn filter then, once I did, I didn't even bother trying to reach it and dismissing it as being an impossible task for somebody 6' 4" and 270 pounds. Finally, I did attempt to reach it but once again quickly gave up after concluding there was no way I would be able to remove the filter with one hand with or without the oil filter wrench. It guess worse from there. Draining the oil, same thing. Ultimately I did manage to change both but surprisingly felt no sense of victory once completed.

The Clymer's manual turned out to be pretty useful in determining what components to check and how to check them. During the process, I learning that my power steering pump was dry of fluid and I followed the steps to bleed the system. This was somewhat perplexing a discovery however in that the pump was replaced by the dealer at 174 hours when I took possession of the boat last year. The boat now has 250 hrs.

I never checked my risers or manifolds as I quickly determined this was a job that was way over my head if something unplanned happened. I will cross my fingers for smooth operation this year and have an expert look at them next year as well as the bellows and all that other good stuff that should probably be done annually but is commonly not.

Ultimately I hooked up a pair of muffs and started her up. It started and ran smoother than I expected and compared to most starts last year. No leaks observed in any of the systems. I also learned all the rave for Sea Foam - good stuff.
Not surprisingly though there was an intermittent loud squeak from the from of the engine. This started mid season last year when the engine was cold and only when cold. The squeak took about 30 seconds to develop and then remained at a certain volume (fairly loud) for about 10-15 minutes of driving before disappearing completely. It didn't disappear during this period when I had it running out of the water. however, I did not run it very long nor have it over 2000 rpm.
It was quite difficult determining where the squeak was coming from. Definitely the from the front and external. When I stood over the power steering pump it sounded like the alternator on the other side but when I stood on the other side, it sounded like the power steering. If I had to lay money down, I'd say it was the power steering pump 2:1 odds and this was determined by triangulating the volume of the squeak more-so than the direction. I am hoping for some direction on this from the rest of you, i.e how to determine if it is the pump and what else to look for. I did tighten the belt which seemed a little loose. Also, the steering wheel seemed to operate fine and there was no foam in the reservoir after many turns of the wheel. I contacted the dealer and he stated no warranty on the pump.
Can't recall any other aspects I would like to touch base on but again, thanks for everyone's help.

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

**UPDATE**


Can't recall any other aspects I would like to touch base on but again, thanks for everyone's help.

Wait a tick...I remembered a couple of things:
Someone was asking about serial numbers, here they are:
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o516/MajBach/merc_zps0a59cf40.jpg

When removing the flame arrester from the opposite side, I felt this thing come loose (other end is attached to the rocker cover) and I cannot find a spot for it to reconnect to:
http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o516/MajBach/B2_zps1d89ee7d.jpg

http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o516/MajBach/BREATHER_zps83cf7ef9.jpg

I also have a sound recording of that squeak I mentioned but no idea how to post it here.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Not surprisingly though there was an intermittent loud squeak from the from of the engine. This started mid season last year when the engine was cold and only when cold. The squeak took about 30 seconds to develop and then remained at a certain volume (fairly loud) for about 10-15 minutes of driving before disappearing completely. It didn't disappear during this period when I had it running out of the water. however, I did not run it very long nor have it over 2000 rpm.
It was quite difficult determining where the squeak was coming from. Definitely the from the front and external. When I stood over the power steering pump it sounded like the alternator on the other side but when I stood on the other side, it sounded like the power steering.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... Here's My take on yer Squeal,...

The Alternator belt is loose, 'n probably worn,...
The alternator starts to charge a few seconds after the motor starts, 'n the battery is down from spinnin' the starter,...
10/ 15 minutes later, the battery is topped off, 'n the massive load on the alternator is lessened, so the squeal stops,...

So,... Check yer belts, 'n if yer pulleys are Rusty, sand 'em, 'n paint 'em,... I use Rustoleum...

Btw,... Yer P/S pump was low,... Check the P/S Cooler for an internal leak,...
It'll dump oil into the motor's coolin' water.... so there's no spillage in the bilge to see....

When removing the flame arrester from the opposite side, I felt this thing come loose (other end is attached to the rocker cover) and I cannot find a spot for it to reconnect to:

It's the vent tube that should attach to the flame arrester... might be just a little flat tab...

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... Here's My take on yer Squeal,...

The Alternator belt is loose, 'n probably worn,...
The alternator starts to charge a few seconds after the motor starts, 'n the battery is down from spinnin' the starter,...
10/ 15 minutes later, the battery is topped off, 'n the massive load on the alternator is lessened, so the squeal stops,...

This would make sense since the battery had been sitting all winter and I had been playing the radio for 2 days prior to starting. However, I have a serpentine belt that runs everything so the alternator is not on its own belt. Should disconnecting the lead on the alternator or putting the battery isolator switch to 'off' not verify it is in fact the alternator?
What is actually making the squeaking noise and why is it intermittent? (Ya know, I did notice the the squeak to kind of be in sync with a flash of white of lettering on the belt, suggesting it was something to do with the belt itself.)

Btw,... Yer P/S pump was low,... Check the P/S Cooler for an internal leak,...

Where would I find this? Had no idea there was such a beast.

It's the vent tube that should attach to the flame arrester... might be just a little flat tab...

Yup! makes complete sense now that you pointed that out.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

This would make sense since the battery had been sitting all winter and I had been playing the radio for 2 days prior to starting. However, I have a serpentine belt that runs everything so the alternator is not on its own belt. Should disconnecting the lead on the alternator or putting the battery isolator switch to 'off' not verify it is in fact the alternator?
What is actually making the squeaking noise and why is it intermittent? (Ya know, I did notice the the squeak to kind of be in sync with a flash of white of lettering on the belt, suggesting it was something to do with the belt itself.)


Where would I find this? Had no idea there was such a beast.




Yup! makes complete sense now that you pointed that out.

Ayuh,... I guess I'd start with a fresh belt, 'n closely inspect the alternator pulley, 'n bearin's...

Where the in-comin' water line from the drive meets the return line from the P/S actuator,...
It's a black fat tube, 7" long, 2" round, with 2 big hoses, 'n 2 little hoses, probably Under the motor, portside maybe...
Obviously, it needs Drainin' for the winter... which wasn't done...

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

While I have an experts attention...

Can you verify this engine and leg? I thought it was a 2002 but it appears it's a 2001? I don't know the exact terminology for this cooling system but it does have a heat exchanger but the closed part of the cooling system if for the block only. I ask because in the process of trying to determine what serpentine belt to order, there are several variants and I cannot seem to narrow it down. I cannot find one the serpentine belt that runs everything.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

While I have an experts attention...

Can you verify this engine and leg? I thought it was a 2002 but it appears it's a 2001? I don't know the exact terminology for this cooling system but it does have a heat exchanger but the closed part of the cooling system if for the block only. I ask because in the process of trying to determine what serpentine belt to order, there are several variants and I cannot seem to narrow it down. I cannot find one the serpentine belt that runs everything.

Huh,..??..??

You have what's known as a closed coolin' system, or Freshwater Coolin', sometimes called a 1/2 system, as it's Block only,...
A Full system will include the manifolds, but the risers, or elbows are always the raw water dump point, 'n exposed to the brine...

As for Shoppin' for parts, go with the Serial Number, 'n ya can't go wrong,....

 

[skydiveD30571]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Make sure your pulleys are all aligned with eachother, especially the power steering pump pulley. A pulley can work itself into a position that is tilted slight inward or outward, then the belt rubs against the wall of the pulley as it travels around it.

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Make sure your pulleys are all aligned with eachother, especially the power steering pump pulley. A pulley can work itself into a position that is tilted slight inward or outward, then the belt rubs against the wall of the pulley as it travels around it.

This too makes a great deal of sense. Is there a preferred technique other than just 'eyeing' it

 

[skydiveD30571]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

On mine, it didn't take much eyeballing to see it was off by quite a bit. To hone in on where exactly the noise is coming from, you can hold a long screwdriver near each pulley and your ear on the other side.

 

[MajBach]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

Make sure your pulleys are all aligned with eachother, especially the power steering pump pulley. A pulley can work itself into a position that is tilted slight inward or outward, then the belt rubs against the wall of the pulley as it travels around it.

You were right! the PS pulley of out of alignment with the belt when viewed from above. I havent determined what to do next.

 

[achris]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

This would make sense since the battery had been sitting all winter and I had been playing the radio for 2 days prior to starting. However, I have a serpentine belt that runs everything so the alternator is not on its own belt. Should disconnecting the lead on the alternator or putting the battery isolator switch to 'off' not verify it is in fact the alternator?
What is actually making the squeaking noise and why is it intermittent? (Ya know, I did notice the the squeak to kind of be in sync with a flash of white of lettering on the belt, suggesting it was something to do with the belt itself.)....

Never, ever, ever do this... It will slice and dice any electronics you have on the engine (ignition system/ECU etc)... (without the battery connected the alternator has no voltage reference and the output can spike as high as 30 volts... )

Chris.......

 

[skydiveD30571]

Re: Learning the Ins and the Outs of an I/O

You were right! the PS pulley of out of alignment with the belt when viewed from above. I havent determined what to do next.

Here are a couple options. Either pressing the pulley back into position, or modifying the bracket.

Achris, that is interesting and I never knew that. So alternators monitor battery voltage and adjust output based on that?