Lonestar Aluminum Hull Restoration

Pierce89

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
50
Good morning everyone, I am looking for some advice if anybody has time. I bought a 1960 18ft Lonestar El Dorado to restore that will be 100% trailered and used in saltwater. It was the perfect hull style to fit on our limited-space sideyard with a little cabin and about 7ft of standup room in the back for trolling and scuba-diving gear. My previous restoration was a '76 Invader Intruder (fiberglass), and this will be my first aluminum project. I appreciate any help!

1. What size rivets are under the hull? I ordered aluminum 3/16" brazier head, 1/2" long closed rivets. I am wondering if I ordered the wrong size.

2. One the last picture, there's water leaking from this seam. I can't really find which rivet is causing the leak. Is there a special way to find it? Also in picture 8, the keel strips have holes in them I assume are factory. If water is seeping out of one, how do you find the rivet responsable?

3. In pictures 7 and 8, there's 2 pipes riveted to the hull under the seatbase. Anybody know what these are for?

4. The hull has max hp of 80hp. I was thinking about bracing the transom with extra knees and putting a 90hp 4stroke or 115 2stroke. Has anyone done this without the weight being too much?

5. Anybody ever mount a gastank under the deck on a boat similar to this?

6. Most important question that I cannot find an answer to: When I build the deck, should it be bonded to the hull at the edges to allow no saltwater to enter below deck like a fiberglass boat? My concern is if I leave a gap along the edges, saltwater can get down there from fish/wet dive gear and then I cannot hose it down when I return. Initial thought it poly or epoxy PB in the gap then a layer of 1708 (or cloth if epoxy) then paint, but then it won't be easy to remove the deck for possible future leaky rivets. What would you do?
 

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briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,404
I'll take a swing at #4....bad idea for a few reasons....

You're exceeding the design spec of the boat by overpowering it HP wise. That may have unintended consequences with handling. It may/will have consequences insuring it (if needed) and/or during a safety inspection.

Also, that hull was designed with a particular weight of motor. Modern 4 strokes are easily 100-200lbs heavier than the 2 strokes of the day. That can sink the boat further into the water which may have unintended consequences as well.

Assuming, and yes I am aware of what that makes me, that the separation between the blue paint and white paint on the transom IS the waterline, an extra inch or two deeper may have dire consequences. Add batts, gas, gear back there and you could be in a heap of trouble.
 

Pierce89

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
50
Thanks for the reply, this is why I'm asking because someone mentioned the biggest recreational outboard manufactured in 1960 was 80hp so that's all they had to go by. I believe this boat originally had two 1960 40hp Evinrudes, so I'm trying to figure out the weight of these rigged up. Two 40hps rigged should weigh more than one 80hp engine. I'm wondering how fast 80hp can get this thing moving, we're used to going 28mph at full WOT with our 1976 Evinrude 115 powering an 1976 Invader Intruder trihull that is fiberglass and weighs more.

Any thoughts on the other points? Thanks again in advance, I am trying to get some things ordered. Already orders Gluvit, 3/16" brazier head rivets 1/2" long, and the 3/16" tool to buck them. Just need a cheap harbor freight air gun and I think I can get started if the rivets are the correct size.
 

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,404
Umm....unless someone paid some decent $$$ to a welder to plug the mounting holes, I highly doubt that had twin 40's on it. There's no evidence of it hole wise. And there's no tell tale of it having clamp on 40's either - you'd see impressions in the aluminum from where the motor clamped in. You're talking shear pin vintage motors so any object strike would definitely leave a mark on transom with no sacrificial wood in place....of which I see no evidence of that either.

Twins would have been spread apart a bit so the cases didn't clank and in order for that to happen on that vintage, it'd be pretty much where what appears to be an old speedo pickup or perhaps an old transducer is mounted on the transom.

18' tinny with 80 hp will move very well. My uncle and cousin have 18' Sylvans with similar sized Yammie and Rude (respectively) and they move. Granted different bottom design from a Deep-V compared to your basically flat bottomed Lonestar but I would expect similar performance.


I honestly can't answer the rest.
 

Pierce89

Seaman
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
50
Good point, not sure why the owner gave me the two motors. I'll part them out on Ebay. The separation between blue and white paint doesn't seem to be the waterline, it's just an awful paint job. I've been sanding it off the last couple days.

Looks like this El Dorado in the picture has a 70hp 4 stroke, and a 90hp is 100lbs more. That wood on starboard side is covering a 30gal gastank. What are yalls thoughts on putting the batteries under the seats and a 30gal gastank in the bow area to offset weight if the engine was 100lbs more?
 

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matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,171
It has a max of 80hp. Back in the day they ran 2 motors to get over 100hp and it was common. Larger boats often had no maximum listed.. But If we assume that this boat DID run twin 40hp Big Twins, that makes 316lbs give or take ( for short shaft motors )

Also note that, 80hp in 1960 was less than 80hp today. It would be about 90-100hp today in a 4 stroke... I have a 1966 Starcraft Holiday 14 that I re powered with a 2021 Suzuki DF25A from a 1966 Johnson Super Seahorse 40hp ( Big Twin ) and it runs the same speed as it did with the 40hp.. I think 70hp will move it fine
 
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