Lonestar Project

[tab2]

Hey Guys,

Great site with a lot of info, I would never try something like this without the wealth of knowledge here. I am about to tackle my first project. I recently acquired a Lonestar from the 50s? and have started putting it back together. So far I have it gutted and have starting cleaning her up. This is best picture I have of it so far:

I wanted to wait a little longer to start a thread, but need help already. The old transom came out in pieces, very, very small ones. Now, I do not know how it will be possible to get a new one in, there is no way to get it in one piece. It is difficult to illustrate in pictures, but take a look below and let me know what you think. I will get one from the top after the weekend. Need to ski on the snow while I can!

I promise I will get more pictures of the whole thing next time I pull it out of the barn. Thanks in advance.

TAB

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

A few more pictures:

Was this done from the factory? Or was it needed to be registered. Last time it was legally in the water was 1984 in Georgia.

Transom width. Was planning on laminating 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and painting. Would I be better off expoxying? I have never done that before.

This one shows how the fin, which is fixed, does not allow you to get a full width transom in:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Lonestar Project

It's a 1959 if the dimensions of your's match this:

You can look thru the LoneStar's here too

 

[26aftcab454]

Re: Lonestar Project

Welcome to iboats!
I would go with marine grade plywood. Those fins may be riveted in.ya might have to drill out the rivets to install a solid transom and re install the fins. I have used stainesss steel machine bolts myself.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Lonestar Project

If it's a 14' LS, it's likely a late 50's or 1960 Malibu. But there are quite a few finned LS's in the Fiberglassic library. Most have length & beam etc to help ID the year of your's.

This is a 1960 Malibu LS thread:

But it looks less substantial then your's, that's why I thought it might be the Saratoga.

Welcome to the iboat's dry dock, tin division...

 

[64osby]

Re: Lonestar Project

Nice Lone * Star. Love the fins.

Just with what you've shown it does look like a few rivets are going to have to be drilled / removed. You just need to find the path of least resistance, or least headache, or least chance to screw up.

On sealing the transom, an oil base will work. It's the least durable product. Spar varnish would be next and the epoxy is the best. I used spar varnish on my little tinny, also a Lone * Star but not a good looking as yours.

Keep the pics coming and have fun.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Lonestar Project

Since they are smaller, less complex shapes, drilling out & removing the rivets that hold these parts of the transom might give you access to get the transom installed. Might remove the braces I circled in red & see if it gives you just enough room to get the transom in:

 

[64osby]

Re: Lonestar Project

JB - I think there is a piece under each fin the comes toward the center about 4 or 5", it's parallel and full height of the transom plate.

Need lots more pics.

As I look at that I might be inclined to do a spliced transom, glue up pieces that are 1/3 - 2/3 and 2/3 - 1/3 the width and then glue it in place. Just might be able to sneak it in without tearing anything out.:noidea:

What size motor is going on her?

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

JB - As I look at that I might be inclined to do a spliced transom, glue up pieces that are 1/3 - 2/3 and 2/3 - 1/3 the width and then glue it in place. Just might be able to sneak it in without tearing anything out.:noidea:

I am leaning towards that idea, if was able to biscuit them, I would really be leaning that way. The only other route I have thought about is removing a few rivets (green circles), and trying to snake it down through the cut outs for the controls.

Here is pic of the whole thing since I don't have one up yet. Overall length is about 14'-8" which is leading me to believe that this is a Cornado.

http://www.fiberglassics.com/wiki/images/4/4b/Lonestarb59006.jpg

In terms of the motor, I have a similar vintage Mercury 350 that I haven't gotten into yet.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: Lonestar Project

Very cool boat_ Definitively worth of restoring...

This thread below is Lund, but similar vintage to yours (except finless) and the owner is doing a great job:

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...air/1959-18-lund-runabout-restore-579713.html

I would seal your transom with epoxy - its such an important part of the boat. Epoxy is a somewhat pricy, but ridiculously easy to apply.
You can order it from U.S. composites (most folks use the 3:1) and it comes with instructions, etc...

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Lonestar Project

Gluv-it, a type of 2-part epoxy, can be used to seal any interior seams that may be leaking as well as any wooden components on the boat, such as the transom. I believe West Marine carries it in stock.

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

Well between drilling out 4 rivets, and cutting the new pieces (one 3/4" and one 1/2") into 1/3 - 2/3 and 2/3 -1/3, I was able to get the new pieces in. Pics below:

It is really tight in there so I am thinking that the 3:1 635 thin epoxy from US Composites, and they gluing them together.
Epoxy :*Epoxy Resins and Hardeners
Can someone point me to a how-to or FAQ for epoxy? First time playing with it. What is the coverage like on this stuff? Can I paint over it?

 

[64osby]

Re: Lonestar Project

Nice work on the fitting of the transom. Now pull it back out and seal it up.

My question would be - do you seal the interior of the splice or do you leave it clean so the water proof glue gets a good bond? The top edge could be sealed with epoxy but the bottom? Can epoxy seal / bond wood together?

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

My question would be - do you seal the interior of the splice or do you leave it clean so the water proof glue gets a good bond? The top edge could be sealed with epoxy but the bottom? Can epoxy seal / bond wood together?

I have bought Titebond III and waterproof PL, but don't know which way to go.

If I epoxy all sides of the pieces, obviously it will be better in terms of keeping water out, but will it be able to glue/PL well enough to the other piece? Conversely, am I better off with a stronger joint where the glue can penetrate into the wood a little and risk the water penetration? Or put so much glue in there, it wont be an issue anyway!

Should I use glue or PL to fasten the two epoxied pieces of 1/2" & 3/4" together?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Lonestar Project

Hi Tab. Most folks generally glue and screw the two layers of the transom together with PL, pre-drill the holes for the stainless steeo mounting hardware, then seal the whole thing in epoxy. Be sure to dip the hardware in some 3M 5200 marine caulk just prior to installation as well.

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

Hi Tab. Most folks generally glue and screw the two layers of the transom together with PL, pre-drill the holes for the stainless steeo mounting hardware, then seal the whole thing in epoxy. Be sure to dip the hardware in some 3M 5200 marine caulk just prior to installation as well.

Unfortunately, this isn't an option. I ended up with 4 difference pieces, (2) 3/4" thick with the length of the transom split into 1/3 - 2/3, and the other (2) are 1/2" thick that are cut 2/3 - 1/3. I have to put them all in 1 at a time.

As a result, I planned to put them all in, drill all my holes that will go through the transom, pull them back out, epoxy each piece individually, then fasten (method undetermined at this time) them to each other, clamp the hell out of it, then install my hardware.

Is there a better way to do it?

 

[64osby]

Re: Lonestar Project

tab - Sounds like you have a good plan to me.

If you seal each piece all over then I think the PL is the way to go.

Spread it with a grooved trowel (maybe 1/8") on both surfaces like tile or floor mastic and a bead where the joints will be. The hardware should pull it all together, especially if the 3/4 piece is on the outside (closer to the bow). Add a few extra SS Screws if you think it will be needed. I'd also install temp bolts where the motor mounts are. Any that oozes out will stick to the Alum or can be cleaned off where exposed.

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

A small update. I am going to Mexico on Thursday so I wanted to get somethings done before hand.

My epoxy came (3:1) in from US Composites so I had my first epoxy experience tonight. Went okay I thought, time will tell. I will try to get another coat tomorrow night before I go on vacation. Is two coats enough? I plan to cover it (as well as the seats and rest of the interior) with Petit EZ Decks. How important is it to get into my screw holes?

This was my setup. I took scrap pieces of plywood and put nails through them so I could flip it over to do the other side, while having minimal contact onto the other side.

I also ordered up all of my stainless hardware from boltdepot.com. I ordered it online and when I went to pick a shipping option, pick up was available. Turns out it was less than 5 miles away from my office. It was ready for pick up the same day with everything in its own bag. I was able to get everything for 30 bucks, and couldn't be happier about that. Here it is all laid out in their own bags.

Once I get back from Mexico I plan to pick up a tube of 5200 to put on the hardware and put the transom pieces together with PL and use the hardware to suck it tight. Until next time...

TAB

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

Well that was a long trip to Mexico! Just kidding, the summer came along, I lost motivation, the fall came along, I got some more, the winter came so I skied instead of worked on the boat, and now I am getting back on it. I admire the people who are able to work on their project continually and document the process, obviously it is not something I am very good at. Here are some teaser pics until I am able to give a full update.

I thought polishing would be easier (read cheaper and less time consuming) than painting. I think I was wrong but the results have been good. You can what I started with, the right of the picture, one pass, below that area, and two passes, the left area of the picture.



Here are my seats installed. They are from BassPro and were less than $45 a piece. They were the closest color match I was patient enough for and hopefully they last.



Then I was able to swing down to the Cape and pick this up. And yes that is in the trunk of my Jetta with the seats folded down. I got a few looks at the marina I picked it up from and no one thought it was going to fit. Controls and all!



This should move pretty good with that 40. If you think that's a long shaft motor and I have a short transom, you are right; more on that later.

 

[tab2]

Re: Lonestar Project

It's alive!



Some fresh gas, she started right up with some throttle and choke. It sounds pretty good bumping up the RPMs, but not the best. We will see how that changes once it is in the water. The shift linkage needed some adjustment as you can see because the propeller is spinning in neutral. After my dad and I made that adjustment it was time to clean up. I noticed there are some dead barnacles on there and they came off a decent amount with On-Off, but not completely. I have heard vinegar and a plastic scraper will work as well. Any other suggestions?

My biggest issue now is the steering. The swivel bracket on my motor has gotten very stiff. To the point where it is difficult to move the motor from side to side by hand, so there is no way that the Teleflex steering will turn the motor. I cannot find any exploded views of this area other than the parts list. How hard is it to pull this apart? Should I just bite the bullet and take it to a shop?

Once this is figured out I just have to finish up mounting the controls, front seats, and register and then she is good to go. I am also looking for a fixed 4-12" stern light with a base that is only an 1" wide. Not as easy as I thought it would be because no one includes detailed information on the foot plates of their lights. This is an ideal option, but I need to know the base dimensions.

Attwood Anti-Glare Fold Down All-Round Lights 5358-12-7