low compression cyl 1

solareclpse2000

Seaman Apprentice
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Nov 26, 2011
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35
i did a compression test on my motor and got some nasty results. 1999 merc 200hp 2.5 blue water. carb motor. i was doing a compression test and these are the results. cyl 2- 120 psi 3- 121 4-126 5- 120 6- 119 and number 1 cylinder...... 20 psi. more on that in a bit. besides that for cyl 2-6 are these normal range numbers, or low? i was looking into doing a rebuild in the near future....looks like thats now a priority. but if i had no issue in the 1 cylinder, would these numbers be ok, or would a rebuild be recommended? now, as for cyl 1. i took the head off and found a cip in the edge of the piston, about the size of a BB. on the edge, i can even see the compression ring. the head gasket was broken at the ring seal, where the ring had broken and pushed into the top right cooling port. i flipped the gasket, putting the "bad" part of the gasket on the bottom (cyl 5) and got the same results of 20 psi in cyl 5. 120 in 3 and only 70 in cyl 1. so that tells me the chip in the piston is leaking and a new piston is a must. so i have decided to go with a full rebuild and replace them all. the number 1 cylinder is also marked..... scored, or gouged i dont think is a proper description. its real light. i can see the lines from dragging on the cylinder walls. but they are so light that i cant even feel them with my finger. it looks to me that some how, something small and hard got into the cylinder causing the chip and the breakage in the gasket, but there is no damage, or even a mark on the head. so my main questions here is to determine how i will proceed. full rebuild with pistons is a given, but should i re sleeve? or just get my local machine shop to bore? for correct balance and matching purposes i will do all the cylinders together. instead of say a .010 overbore in just 1 piston. i think a 010 overbore will get the cylinder walls corrected. but is there any performance advantage to doing a 030 overbore? or even 040? is that much save on stock sleeves? how do i determine if i have steel or chrome sleeves? i was also thinking if i got right for a 040 overbore, if i have issues later i have no ability to bore more to repair and such. so i will likley shoot for a 020. just to be on the safe side. unless, the 030 will give me a large power advantage. i know tons of car engines and have been working on cars as long as i can even remember, but out boards are a little different obviously, and this is my first. so any advice is great. what should my piston to cylinder clearance be? and i understand the stock bore is 3.501 inches. so if i go 020 over i will tell my shop to bore the sleeves to 3.521, is that correct? i also understand this is assuming my bores are all still stock. i will look further into that in the next couple days when i have the time and light. and is it really beneficial to shave the heads while is apart? or just a waste of time and money. i want to rebuild it and squeeze out a few extra hp numbers. im planning on velocity stacks, solid engine mounts, exhaust tuner mod, and an above water exhaust outlet from bobs machine shop. thats the plan anyways, with the rebuild being my primary concern and focus. but are these good reliable mods. or just a waste of cash? also, with those mods i would have to rejet and retune my carbs right? i also noticed when i pulled the heads that the guy before me had removed both thermostats. is this ok, or should i get both of them replaced when i build her back up? sorry this is a bunch of stuff thrown out there, but im a little overwhelmed while im trying to plan out this build. thanks in advance.
 

solareclpse2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
35
hmmm, when i typed that i put it all in double spaced blocks, but it came out all jumbled? sorry bout that. also my serial is 0g805365. is there a way to find the serial besides the transom bracket? i was wondering if someone used a different bracket on the motor and that maybe the serial isn't accurate? the boat is a 1975 mako 23 that has been converted from inboard to outboard on an armstrong mount. it ran good and strong even with the bad cylinder some how. i noticed a small miss, but it still ran pretty good. i suspected an issue when i noticed the tell tale was spitting water out in puffs with engine rpm, and not in a steady stream. it had done this since i had bought it and i didn't pay much mind to it since it ran ok.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Sounds like it ate a reed from damaged described. It will be a cast iron bore 2.5L motor and .010-.020 will usually clean up a cylinder like this.The motor needs the t-stats and you can get stainless steel stats if in salt water. Save your $$$ as overbore on a 2 stroke will not add enough HP to be noticed(1-2hp), shaved heads will help acceleration and add about 5hp at WOT, bolt -on velocity stacks are just for looks as it takes a LOT of tuning with exhaust/rpm to see results, mounts help high speed handling ,exhaust tuner only if your going to turn motor above 6000rpm and then you will need porting mods. JMO unless your set-up will run above 65MPH build it back stock and prop it for 5700-6000RPM at WOT
 

solareclpse2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
35
awsome just the advice i was hoping for. thank you faztbullet. looks like ill bore 020 to clean up and still leave room for future issues. i will do stainless t stats since im in salt water regularly. i will probably shave the heads. what is the common amount shaved? i think i have heard .010? and besides that ill build to stock. i dont plan of reving over 6k, maybe 65 or 7k max, but that would be very seldom, when seas are calm. if i could get 65 mph i wld be beyond satisfied. right now im topping out around 40-42 mph. if i shave the heads and bore to 020 can i used my stock carb jets? or will that require a re jet?
 

solareclpse2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
35
oh, also i will break it down to the reed block and check the reeds for damage as well. is it worth the cost to replace the reeds with performance reed sets? i know its pricey, but the stock reeds are also a little hard to find from the little searching i have done so far
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Pop a set of CCM reeds in it...you want to shave the heads to 32-34 cc's as there is not set measurement on what to mill due to casting differences. It would be better to save the $$ and just install the 1mm thin head gasket as this will add some compression. If you go this route have the block deck/heads trued .If all you can get is the mid 40"s all the mods out there wont get you a extra 20mph so don't get you hopes up.
 

solareclpse2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
35
Sounds like a plan. Thank you for the advice. I suspect the speed issue may be alot from the fact that it was running with the dead cylinder, i also have no idea what size prop this is on it because it has no size or pitch stamping on it. But i suspect between those 2 items is why my speed is so low. Its not THAT heavy of a boat, around 2k lbs. And it planes fast, and on plane there is very little of the boat left in the water. Thanks again
 
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