lower unit damage... dead in the water......

[brussell]

Hey Folks,
Got an 80 model Glasstream with an 1988 Evinrude 88 spl. Just changed the plugs, wires and lower unit fluid. The thing was running better than ever. Ran it all weekend and spent over $100 on gas. This afternoon I headed out and went about 30 mi before the motor bogged down(like it was out of fuel) it then revved way up and died. Now it has no gears, no reverse, no forward. There was no fluid loss and when I changed it it was good and clean.

Removed the cover and could see the linkage turning the lever going down to the foot.

The prop turns in gear as does the nut.

Blown prop or worse?

Luckily a fella who had just had a breakdown at the same spot stopped, towed us to his place(5 miles)with a pontoon, got another trailer and pulled the boat out and drove us 18 miles home. I tell ya, nothing like good southern folk....

It's home on the trailer now and I wanna fix it but don't have a whole lot of cash. Just glad to get it home and that it happened on Labor Day and not Memorial Day( or last night when we were 7 miles from home at 11 pm).
It's been a great boat and has lasted a long time for little money.

Is the foot gone or something else?

 

[shearpin]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

sound like you may have a spun prop hub after working it all weekend. while boat is on trailer, key out engine in forward. have a buddy hold the fly wheel while you try and spin the prop by hand in the forward direction. It may take some effort but if the hub is spun you'll be able to spin the prop but not the fly wheel. some props have replaceable hub's.

 

[iwombat]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

If the prop nut is spinning, that means the shaft is spinning too. Sorta rules out a spun hub. By the explanation, it kind of sounds like the LU bound up and then the drive shaft snapped. I think it's time to pull the LU and see what's going on.

 

[shearpin]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

but wouldn't spinning the fly wheel show if the shaft is spent? if the gears are bad spinning the fly wheel may show a binding, a grinding sound.. If after some running time (with help from exhuast heat) the hub would become vary rubbery. remember the nut is attached to shaft. and hub is spliced to shaft . with muffs on for water does the prop spin at low speeds? damage is already done. do you know what kind of prop it is?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

In agreement with the "Bat" above. Sounds like the driveshaft snapped to me.

Those shafts, when they break/snap/shear, do so just below the water pump impeller area. This results in having the water pump function BUT at the same time lose all control of the gearcase.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

agree with Bat and Joe. drop the lower unit.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Lower unit needs to come off !!

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Thanks folks. I did have a fishing boat that broke the shaft going into the foot at one time. Luckily the marina it was at had an old engine and they made a new one.

Since I got it back I haven't done much but when you put it in gear the prop turns and it feels like something is damaged on the inside.

I'm definitely gonna try the work myself. I'll keep ya'll posted on any further damage I cause......

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Alos, I didn't mention, the motoer runs but it seems like it sounds different. Like it's deeper or something. Also, the water pump is still going but I noticed that it took a few seconds to get flowing. It may be normal as I thought it takes a few seconds to get flowing. Sound about right?

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

is removing the foot easy? I have a mercury manual.

 

[iwombat]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Pretty easy with proper instructions. Time to buy a manual.

Remove shift linkage.
Remove lower unit bolts.

That's about it.

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

looks like there are 2 manuals available but none matched my specific motor, Isn't an 88 spl just a 90 V4 with no oil injection?

Also are there any other linkage things I could look at first?

would the condition of the oil be a clue?

 

[iwombat]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

You could remove the lower plug and look for metal shavings. If you see that, then something inside the LU gave way. If the driveshaft just snapped the only way to find out is to remove the LU. Of course, it could be both.


And yes, the 88SPL is just the non-vro version.

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Theres a plate on the right side of the motor. Does it contain a joint that could have snapped? Also what is the frequency of a total gear failure?How many years till something like this occurs on average?

 

[dajohnson53]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Just take the foot off and look, it's the only way. The "transmision" on an outboard is really pretty simple: The drive shaft connects directly from the engine through the water pump to the gear box without any joints. If you remove the lower unit, you should be able to easily determine if the drive shaft is broken. It could theoretically also have stripped where it connects to the engine, but that part (splines at top of shaft) will be visible when you remove the L/U.

If you can't readily find an OEM manual for your motor, get a Seloc or Clymers that covers your engine. In some ways, they aren't as good, but for simply removing the lower unit, I believe you'll find them satisfactory. You can often find them in local boat shops and also public libraries.

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

I'm going out there right now to pull it apart. Does the foot come off with the thing in neutral or reverse?

 

[iwombat]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Yes.



All kidding aside, it doesn't really matter as long as you can get the shift linkage apart. Put it in whatever gear makes it easiest.

One more thing . . .

Once it drops that shift rod may _seem_ loose. Don't tighten it. The height adjusts by turning the shaft. You don't want to readjust it.

 

[brussell]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

drained the fluid and I put it in 2 weeks ago. It looked like dark yellow vomit. No metal on plugs though. Oh then I knocked over the oil, nice mess. Do I leave the motor trimmed up all the way?

 

[iwombat]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

Clear dark yellow vomit, or milky dark yellow vomit? If the latter you've got a water intrusion problem in your lower unit. That's a whole other topic. (and probably the reason your LU failed in the first place).


You're probably going to have more luck with the motor in the run position until you get the LU to drop. You may have to tilt to get enough clearance for the drive shaft when you try and remove it though.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: lower unit damage... dead in the water......

I too think you have water intrusion in you lu. Did you replace the gaskets on the drain and vent plugs, they are the number 1 spot for water intrusion. Might want to presssure test lu to determine where leak is.

To pressure/vacuum test a lower unit:

a) drain the gear oil
b) use an appropriate adapter with a gauge tee'd in to apply pressure or vacuum. No more than 15 psig for pressure. You can use a bicycle pump or any other compressed air source for pressure. For vacuum, you need a vacuum pump.
c) LU should retain some pressure or vacuum for 45 minutes minimum.
d) If pressure doesn't hold, submerge LU in water to find leak source [possibilities: drive shaft seal, prop shaft seal(s) (usually two), shift shaft seal and the fill/drain screw washers.]
e) replace offending seal(s) as required.