Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

murphini

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2004
Messages
116
All:<br /><br />Last year had the boat winterized, this year did myself. 1989 OMC Cobra 5.0 Good advice here on the forums, plus reading the "frickin" manual.<br /><br />Ran on muffs, shut off, then changed oil with the dipstick pump. Cool, except I still got some oil leak in the bilge when I removed the oil filter. PUt in 6 quarts of sae30 as the manual says.<br /><br />Here are my observations on changing the gear oil.<br /><br />1. I bought an impact screwdriver to remove the bottom screw to drain the oil. $9 well spent.<br /><br />2. Put down the drive, removed the top screw and the oil drained s-l-o-w-l-y. It was hard to get the catch container under the outdrive in the down position.<br /><br />3. The color was deep dark green. I thought it was clever to color it differently than the motor oil. Not milky or cloudy--really deep/rich color.<br /><br />4. When I removed the fill plug (OMC's have 3--top/dipstick, bottom/drain, middle/fill) the magnetic plug did have some shavings attached. I pinched off with my finger/thumb. Not huge, but more than bottom plug. Is this normal?<br /><br />5. Upon conflicting advice, I "RTFM" and filled from the middle tube, leaving the dipstick out so it wouldn't airlock. OTher advice said fill from the bottom. Seemed to work ok. I bot the Penzoil lube with the pump with the bottle. Put in 2 quarts. Let sit for 20 minutes, checked dipstick. OK. Re started with muffs on, ran for few minutes. Shut off, then let it sit and checked motor oil and gear lube and they were ok on teh dipstick.<br /><br />Question: Last lube was deep dark green, new lube is yellow/golden. IS that just the color, or will it become green, or was my last lube REALLY OLD?<br /><br />6. This upcoming weekend I'll do the anti-freeze--a pal does his with a utiity/sump pump in a 5 gal bucket full of antifreeze into the muffs. I'll do the fogging when it is getting low on the antifreeze.<br /><br />7. It says to clean the flame arrestor with solvent. What does that mean?<br /><br />Anything I missed? Thanks
 

bigbrownbuku

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 17, 2004
Messages
885
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

likely the last lube put in by the dealer was that colour.<br />the flame arrestor is the metal bug screen looking thing atop the carburettor.<br />flame arrestors collect belt dust etc and get kinda oily from breather oil, becoming a fire hazard and blocking your air intake. solvent is suggested because it will all evaporate away and not leave any flammable residue in the area you need it the least.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

Question: Last lube was deep dark green, new lube is yellow/golden. IS that just the color, or will it become green, or was my last lube REALLY OLD?
The OMC Hi-Vis oil is golden, many places (that are not OMC dealers) use the Mercruiser Hi-Performance gear lube in the Cobra drives, and it's the dark green color. It seems to work as well as the Hi-Vis. We have one boat (OMC Cobra) that comes in yearly for winterization and the owner DEMANDS the Merc gear lube, and we have been putting it in there for over 10 years. I have also seen it used in the Volvo drives .<br /><br />Regarding running it in antifreeze, I would not recommend that with a raw water cooled engine. Run the engine and fog it as normal, then drain the engine and refill through the hoses and thermostat with antifreeze. Running AF on muffs seems to work on about 50% of the engines, the other 50% start new threads in the spring on cracked engine blocks.
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,581
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

The green lube that came out was probably a synthetic.The Penzoil synthetic IS golden in color so dont worry about that.As far as your chosen method of introducing AF into the engine,I use the camco kit from the marine store .I have used it over 10 times in my Mercruiser motors and it works great!!!!.What I find super important to do is to make sure the engine is FIRST warmed up to operating temp to be certain that the stat is open and stays open.To be certain that it stays open ,I mix room temp AF with warm to hot water for a 50/50 mix that when introduced to the motor may actually make it run warmer so the stat wont close.Charlie
 

murphini

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2004
Messages
116
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

thanks for the advice. After seeing DonS post, I feel like Deep Throat has told me to "follow the money" or "watch for posts on block cracks in the spring..."<br /><br />I'll try the calistenics to get back there and undo the petcocks and plugs(?). First time is always the hardest, once done, it becomes easier.<br /><br />How hard is it...or is it just getting to the places to undo?
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,581
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

There are a few factors.The first is getting to the petcocks.The next is to open them w/o breaking anything.If they wont open the next step is to remove them.Hopefully without stripping anything.I dont like those odds.Charlie
 

javsam

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
421
Re: Lower Unit Gear Oil Change/winterize Question

don s post is right on, I tried using the muffs running antifreeze through after I had ran motor a good 20 min for warm up. I had run at least 3 gals in it and had anti freeze coming back out with the exhaust. well I shut engine off and checked results. some antifreeze in block and none in the manifolds.I am sure I would have had damage in spring.<br />javsam
 
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