Lower unit rebuild

[Matthew A.]

Gee...I wonder if the reason why I was seeing a decrease in fuel mileage as well as loss of speed could have something to do with the amount of prop shaft play I discovered. Enough play to where the shaft would rub on the inside of the anode located between the prop and the bearing carrier. My friend came up with a brilliant idea. Why not simply increase the diameter of the hole in the anode so the shaft can't rub on it anymore. I must admit...it's hard to argue against such sheer genius. After all, he did point out that filing the anode would also make for better contact with the salt water, thus increasing it's ability to protect the lower unit from damage due to electrolysis. After thanking him, I pointed out that corrosion is only an issue if there's a lower unit left to corrode.
Now that I have the lower unit completely disassembled, any ideas where to find inexpensive bearing sets for an 88' 85 hp. Also, is the bearing in the bearing carrier replaceable?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Lower unit rebuild

All bearings in the lower unit are replaceable--Some are just a little more difficult than others. All the bearings and seals have numbers on them. All are standard and can be ordered through a bearing supply house. Even so, None are cheap, just less expensive than buying through Merc.

 

[Matthew A.]

Re: Lower unit rebuild

Well, if I go full price for a new forward gear w/bearing I am looking at $550 bucks, $115 for a new bearing carrier w/new bearing [seems awfully cheap], $70 for the top drive shaft bearing, $22 for the pinion bearing, $100 for new drive shaft [special source] , ??? for new prop shaft if I can find one, $55 for the seal kit, $50 for water pump kit, $45 for the crush ring, $5 to $15 for shims [prop shaft and drive shaft] $10 for the pinion nut. There's a $1000 bucks gone.
I am hesitant at replacing both forward gear w/ bearing instead of just the bearing itself due to possible issues arising from mixing new gear with old gear. Why spend an extra 300 bucks for a bearing with a gear I don't need. Only to have to replace reverse and pinion gears for an added 400 bucks to avoid the gear lash issue. The reverse gear and radial bearing assembly have almost zero wear. The shift assem and clutch show almost no wear. Unfortuneately, the prop shaft seal surface is so badly grooved that replacing the shaft is a must. Same with the drive shafts water pump seal surface.
Since rebuilding the powerhead and now the lower unit....I should have a brand new O.B. for $2500 bucks or so. Wooo Hooo!
Now as long as gas stays below 5 bucks a gallon it'll all be worth it.