Lower Unit Removal Problems

[Bennett]

1990 60hp Johnson<br />removed all bolts, 4 for lower unit, 2 for trim tab plus one sunk deep in tab and corrosion block bolt. Lower unit has came down about 1/2 inch and stoped. I don't see any shift wires (have not extended them) The problem seems to be in the forward part of the unit ?????? Thanks for the help.

 

[Hooty]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

I almost said you have to disconnect the shift linkage but you don't have a shift linkage do you?<br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Is there a shift rod ? I can see a rod that goes from near the top of the lower unit all the way up to the center of the motor (about the size of a copper fuel line) I can't see where it goes from there.

 

[Hooty]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Zounds like the shift linkage to me. Do you have a repair manual? <br /><br />c/6<br /><br />Hooty

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Bennet,Look under the lower carb area.That is where the shift rod connects to the shift arm.On your model the shift rod is connected to the shift arm via a bellcrank.If you disconnect the shift cable from the shift arm and then remove the hitch pin that contains the shift arm ,it will allow you to manipulate the shift arm to separate the bellcrank from the shift rod.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Ran out of daylite, I seen the bellcrank also seen the shift arm and a nut securing the bellcrank to the arm, didn't see the pin. Do I remove the nut and disconect it from the arm then seek the pin ? Am I going to have probs getting the rod back up after installing new water pump, the rod has a curve in it, and has to run through a gromet ? Thanks for the help.

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Shouldn't have to remove anything "at" the bellcrank.The hitch pin is what contains the thrusting motion of the shift arm.Hitch pin is easily accessible.Once pin is removed use the shift arm to separate the bellcrank from the shift rod.<br /><br />They're a bugar to get to.I've been there many times and my hands are getting bigger and language getting more colorful with each visit.Heck I make mine easier by pulling the starter off now.Opens up the line of vision a bit better.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Ok now I'm confused. don't I have to get to the housing behind the carb. Is that the bellcrank ? I can see the main arm from the shifter (comming from the left, if looking into the carbs) It looks like it goes into the housing, side ways. Also the shift rod (small one from the Lower unit)looks like it is attached to the housing from the bottom. Do I remove the shift rod or the main arm ? I only see one nut that looks like it will remove the main shift arm, but not the one I need removed (small rod)

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Bennet,Lets refer to the bellcrank as the block of metal that connects the shift rod to the shift arm.This block will separate in half without removing the bolt on it.To do this ,the shift arm hitch pin needs to be removed.Pushing in on the shift arm "toward the shift rod" will separate the block.The shift rod is sandwiched in between this block.<br /><br />Make sure the lower unit is pulled back up in place with at least two of its bolts to relieve the stress from the shift rod not being disconnected.<br /><br />On older engines the shift arm was connected to the shift rod with a single bolt that had to be removed,but that design was changed so that it wasn't necessary to get a tool into that hard to reach location.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Ok I think I am with you now. I am at work and will not be able to look at it until later. Thanks, hope I'm not to much of a pain. The manual I bought suck and dosen't explain any of this.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

And all this will be done from the left side as looking at the carbs ? Is the pin a cotter type or small rod type?

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Yes.The hitch pin is a wire spring clip type that sticks through a hole in the shift arm.Reassembly is made simpler by removing the plastic intake assy. and starter.Just lets you see better.Good luck.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

ob saves the day. I took your advice and the removal was complete in about 2 min. Is there anything else I should look at now that I have the lower unit off. Oh by the way the Impeller was trashed. Thanks again.

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

I would go ahead and replace the exhaust boot seals while you have it apart.One upper and one lower.They're cheap.Also,if you want more peace of mind,change out the shift rod seal as well.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

I have noticed oil running (not a great deal) out of a hole at the top of the lower unit when the motor was tilted up. Once taken off I see that all of the holes around the shift housing have oil (heavy) in them along with alot of dirt. Any idea on the oil ?

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

If the oil is black and gummy ,it is likely burned two cycle mix that is somewhat normal.However ,if the amount seems excessive it may be due to leaking exhaust boot seals.<br /><br />If the oil isn't black in color and smells of gear oil,you may have a leak on either the driveshaft seal (under waterpump) or a leaky shift rod seal.Drain the lower unit oil ,if you haven't already, and inspect what drainds out closely for signs of water intrusion.It will appear milky in color if water is present in gearcase.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Lower unit oil looks good, no water. I belive it may be from the upper motor, small oil leak may be running down shift rod.

 

[ob]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Could be just weeping out of silencer cover.No big woop.Insure that the scavenge hose on the back of the intake silencer is connected at both ends and free of holes.Also if your engine is using the VRO insure there are no leaks on the oil inlet line to VRO.Inspect all fuel hoses on vro and carb inlets for signs of leakage as well.

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Will do. Thanks for all the help. I will post once more when lower unit is complete. Thanks

 

[Bennett]

Re: Lower Unit Removal Problems

Work complete, water pump is pumping good. I ran on muffs for about 5 min<br />The bottom cylinder is definitely hotter (by hand) than the others, could this be a prob ?<br />Should I do the heat stick test, if so how long should it run before test and what temp stick ?