Lower Unit Workbench Clamp?

[cgodfrey]

I'm disassembling and resealing an old 25hp lower unit. First time I've done one this big. (Lots of 3's 5.5s and 10's, but I'm branching out)

I don't have a great method of keeping the lower unit (with drive shaft and shift rods protruding out) clamped immobilized so I can put the necessary torque to the skeg/cap screws. I think the last guy put some threadlocker on them, they're in there snug.

Please show me your clever and/or obvious solutions for working on an upside down lower unit. I'm going to be doing a couple more 25s and 33s this winter, so if there's a popular commercial tool for this function, I might invest in it.

 

[oldcatamount]

I have a Black & Decker WorkMate, which is a portable table/bench with a top that opens and closes by two crank handles. The top is wood and won't hurt the paint finish. Open up the top, set the L/U in it and tighten the crank handles. Works good for small units. Also works good for impeller replacement.

 

[Tim Frank]

I use a woodworking bench-vise with 3" Styrofoam blocks that I cut.
Foam crushes well and shapes itself around LU nicely.

 

[F_R]

What??? Is there someone out there that hasn't made a "pickle fork" out of a 2 x 6 yet? I suppose you could add a C-clamp, but I've never found I t necessary

http://s19.postimg.org/udoz7gsqb/100_1157.jpg

 

[FMJshooter]

Yep my father in law is an old time boater and he has a wood fork like that and bigger one he welded up out of square tube steel for bigger units. Both work very well!

 

[cgodfrey]

I actually found a friend with a Bob Kerr tool. It might have spoiled me for any other setup...