Lund Angler 1700

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Hello all,
First i would like to say "What a informative group you have here." I'm have started a restore of my Lund Angler 1700. I'm replacing the decking and carpet. After reading a lot here I've chosen to use 3/4" exterior ply with a light epoxy/glass coating. The decking has several pieces that are formed from aluminum. Removing the glue from these pieces is the biggest headache so far. I've tried adhesive remover, A wire wheel, and a 36 grit wheel on a 4" angle grinder. The angle grinder was the ticket for the majority. A combo of remover and wire wheel for the tight spots. A couple of question.

I'm still not sure what adhesive to use on the carpet?

Does anyone know of a place where i can get marine vinyl for lining the storage areas? All the places that i have found have a minimum quantity of 15'.

Thanks!
 

92excel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 6, 2008
Messages
477
Re: Lund Angler 1700

1/2 inch ply coated with resin and matt on both side will be plenty durable and saves on weight over the 3/4
 

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Re: Lund Angler 1700

Thanks for the reply. I would like to save the weight. My only concern is the original plywood was 3/4". There are a couple of spots were there would be a gap with the thinner ply where it meets the aluminum parts. Also the hatch covers are designed to fit flush on the bottom with 3/4" ply. With 1/2" they would hit some of the bracing and stick up.
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: Lund Angler 1700

Gotta love removing carpet and adhesive from aluminum...:rolleyes:

I'm working on a 18' Crestliner and had to remove a bunch of carpet and adhesive. I heated up the aluminum with a heat gun and pulled the carpet off, the adhesive Crestliner used is hot-melt so it will release when the aluminum gets hot. Once a majority of the carpet was off, I soaked the aluminum part in lacquer thinner, then let it sit for 10-15 minutes. After the solvent has done it's job the adhesive will just wipe off the aluminum. What I found works best to keep the solvent in contact with the adhesive is to lay solvent soaked paper towels on the adhesive and then apply a bit more solvent to flood the surface.

I used spray grade contact cement to stick down marine vinyl flooring to the hull sides and decks of my boat. Used about 4 gallons for my 18' Superhawk,,, but it has about 25 panels that were covered in vinyl, plus the hull sides. Bought a 5 gallon can from the local upholstery supply store for $50 and then sprayed it with a $15 cup gun from Harbor Freight.

I bought my marine vinyl off Ebay but there are several places on the internet to get it, Defender, Cabelas, BPS, etc. Run a google search for Nautolex or Marideck and see what comes up.
 

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Re: Lund Angler 1700

Thanks for the help. I'll give these a try.
 

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Re: Lund Angler 1700

There is a strip of aluminum that caps the transom on my Lund. I noticed a couple of spots of corrosion that have eaten through. These are the only place on the boat that has corrosion. What would cause this? The holes are right in the middle of the strip not on the edges. Also how do you repair something like this?

Thanks
 

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Re: Lund Angler 1700

Couple of pictures of the work so far.
3381724975_82a35e27ec.jpg

3382543026_e88f0ebd6f.jpg

3381724903_b138ed3c92.jpg
 

ebuhr

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
30
Re: Lund Angler 1700

I finally turned the corner on my boat. I've went from tearing apart to putting back together. Here is a picture of the newly carpeted floor panels laid in the boat. I sealed all the wood with epoxy and glass. I really want to thank everyone on iBoats for all their help. Here are a couple of things that I discovered on my project.

1. Carpet has a grain. In the sun one direction will look shiny the other dull. Lay out your cuts the same direction as they sit in the boat and mark them.

2. For the most part outdoor carpet does not stretch just make it taught.

3. Contact cement is the way to go. I was afraid of the "instant bond" to start but after doing a few of the simple pieces it's really easy. Start with a simple square or rectangle. Lay the carpet on top making sure you have plenty of overlap. Then fold back a section, coat both surfaces, let it dry and roll it back smoothing as you go. Then repeat on the other half.

4. The non-flammable contact cement is junk. Does not work.

5. Working on your boat can warp your perception of time and money. My two weekend, $300 dollar makeover is now in its 5th week and $850.

6. Has anyone ever found DRY foam in there boat?

7. A drill and a wire wheel works great for removing old carpet adhesive and your shirt :).
 

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