jay mendoza
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2009
- Messages
- 81
Converting an Evinrude or Johnson 9.9 hp outboard to a 15hp.
These engines were produced from 1974 to 1992 and after that they underwent significant changes not covered here. From 1974 to 1976 the 9.9 and 15 were identical except for the carb. After that minor changes were a shim under the reed stops, and by 1982 the exhaust tube was changed, but the most significant difference is from 1977 onwards all engines had CDI ignition in place of points. Interestingly, by 1987 both the 15 and 9.9 went back to the 9.9 exhaust tube, so there is little use in bothering with changing it, as OMC eventually determined. The reed shim is a lot of trouble to add for the marginal quickening of throttle response it gives. Of course, if you have the power head off the engine and disassembled, then it would be practical, assuming you have to perform other repairs.
All one has to do is obtain the 15 carburetor of the same year model for the 9.9 and bolt it on to unlock the potential horsepower of the restricted 9.9. It follows that a full service would be wise to do at this time because you will have the pull starter off, and the air box as well, so you might as well pull the flywheel(points model 1974-6) and set the timing while you?re at it. Lube all points as indicated in the manual ; throttle, magneto plate, shifter, and cowl latch. Replace the spark plugs, check the wires. Clean the fuel filter on the pump, and replace any hardened lines, which bring up the following point:
Another thing to note is that the fuel now contains ethanol and most likely the fuel pump diaphragms will need replacement if your engine is over 5 years old, or has not been run in a long time. Although OMC/Bombardier does not list a fuel pump rebuild kit, the kit that is available from Sierra Marine works on 1982 and earlier 9.9-15 fuel pumps, and be advised Sierra does not tell you this either, but the parts are correct. These pumps are a bit tricky to fix, but here is a link on how to do it:
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Rebuilding_fuelpump.htm
Needless to say, I just did mine as well.
Replace the pull rope if frayed(always fun to have it break out on the lake!). Next carefully check that the carb cam follower is synched with the arrow/mark on the cam as they just begin to touch, adjust if required. While you are at it, might as well change out the water pump impeller, or better yet, if you never have done it and your motor is over 10 years old, put in the complete pump kit. Change out the gear oil, and be sure to replace the lower unit drain and fill plug washers with new ones. I might mention you can still get the correct paint, I just re-did my 1975 and the paint matched perfectly, order it from your Bombardier dealer.
The reason I recommend all the extra stuff is because not only are parts getting harder to find, the prices are going up as well. We have no idea how much longer the parts Bombardier has are going to last, or if they plan to produce them once they run out, so get while the getting is good, or be sorry later! Even if you don?t replace now, at least stock up if you plan on keeping the engine. I just bought a spare recoil spring, and the price went up to $20.00 this time!
If you have questions about this, please go to Crowley marine and peruse the on-line parts lists for your year model, comparing the 9.9 to the 15 to find the differences. You will find as I have noted most of the differences are minor and not related to the power head, other than the carb, and exhaust tuning, which as noted reverted to being the same on both models eventually. If you do some research on the engine specs it becomes apparent both models have a much higher full throttle RPM than the rated Horse Power RPM, so they are capable of producing more than their rated power. OMC rated this engine very conservatively as it turns out, and that is why it was popular as a Class A hydro racing engine when fitted with a Quickie lower unit.
These engines were produced from 1974 to 1992 and after that they underwent significant changes not covered here. From 1974 to 1976 the 9.9 and 15 were identical except for the carb. After that minor changes were a shim under the reed stops, and by 1982 the exhaust tube was changed, but the most significant difference is from 1977 onwards all engines had CDI ignition in place of points. Interestingly, by 1987 both the 15 and 9.9 went back to the 9.9 exhaust tube, so there is little use in bothering with changing it, as OMC eventually determined. The reed shim is a lot of trouble to add for the marginal quickening of throttle response it gives. Of course, if you have the power head off the engine and disassembled, then it would be practical, assuming you have to perform other repairs.
All one has to do is obtain the 15 carburetor of the same year model for the 9.9 and bolt it on to unlock the potential horsepower of the restricted 9.9. It follows that a full service would be wise to do at this time because you will have the pull starter off, and the air box as well, so you might as well pull the flywheel(points model 1974-6) and set the timing while you?re at it. Lube all points as indicated in the manual ; throttle, magneto plate, shifter, and cowl latch. Replace the spark plugs, check the wires. Clean the fuel filter on the pump, and replace any hardened lines, which bring up the following point:
Another thing to note is that the fuel now contains ethanol and most likely the fuel pump diaphragms will need replacement if your engine is over 5 years old, or has not been run in a long time. Although OMC/Bombardier does not list a fuel pump rebuild kit, the kit that is available from Sierra Marine works on 1982 and earlier 9.9-15 fuel pumps, and be advised Sierra does not tell you this either, but the parts are correct. These pumps are a bit tricky to fix, but here is a link on how to do it:
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Rebuilding_fuelpump.htm
Needless to say, I just did mine as well.
Replace the pull rope if frayed(always fun to have it break out on the lake!). Next carefully check that the carb cam follower is synched with the arrow/mark on the cam as they just begin to touch, adjust if required. While you are at it, might as well change out the water pump impeller, or better yet, if you never have done it and your motor is over 10 years old, put in the complete pump kit. Change out the gear oil, and be sure to replace the lower unit drain and fill plug washers with new ones. I might mention you can still get the correct paint, I just re-did my 1975 and the paint matched perfectly, order it from your Bombardier dealer.
The reason I recommend all the extra stuff is because not only are parts getting harder to find, the prices are going up as well. We have no idea how much longer the parts Bombardier has are going to last, or if they plan to produce them once they run out, so get while the getting is good, or be sorry later! Even if you don?t replace now, at least stock up if you plan on keeping the engine. I just bought a spare recoil spring, and the price went up to $20.00 this time!
If you have questions about this, please go to Crowley marine and peruse the on-line parts lists for your year model, comparing the 9.9 to the 15 to find the differences. You will find as I have noted most of the differences are minor and not related to the power head, other than the carb, and exhaust tuning, which as noted reverted to being the same on both models eventually. If you do some research on the engine specs it becomes apparent both models have a much higher full throttle RPM than the rated Horse Power RPM, so they are capable of producing more than their rated power. OMC rated this engine very conservatively as it turns out, and that is why it was popular as a Class A hydro racing engine when fitted with a Quickie lower unit.