Manual source

[denblaq]

Hello, I am new to the forum and need a source for a physical copy for a 1963 50hp Mercury outboard. I bought a 1964
13' Boston Whaler with the above mentioned motor on it. The motor runs fine at speed but will not idle in neutral without stalling. Also, just where is the pee hole supposed to be ? The previous owner showed me what he said was the pee hole on the left bottom of the motor when viewed from the stern. No water comes out when the engine is running but the engine does not seem to be overheating. I ran a small drill bit manually up the hole but it made no difference. Other pictures on this forum for this motor show a pee hole/drain hose coming from the top of the motor. Which is correct ?Thank you all in advance for any help you maybe able to give me. I am new to outboards and need all the help I can get !

 

[carholme]

Re: Manual source

The hard copy manual you require is p/n: 90-25500

1965 & PRIOR MERCURY OUTBOARDS SERVICE MANUAL / ALL MODELS / C-90-25500 | eBay

In the meantime here is a link to the condensed version of the Clymer manual to get you started, Download it soonest to your computer as the link is short lived:

Small Engine Repair Reference Center Home

You haven't included the s/n of your engine but if you are sure it is a 1963, here is the parts list for s/ns 1421113 thru 1639472:

Mercury Parts, MERC 450/500

That hole that he showed you is the phole and it should have a plastic fitting to which a tube is attached and running through the cowling. If you don't have water coming out there when running, the first thing is to drop the LU and investigate the water pump impeller. Let us know what you find in there.

Do you know the history of the engine and has it operated in salt water down there?

Gerry

 

[denblaq]

Re: Manual source

Gerry, the s/n is 15222615 so it is a 1963. The boat and motor came from Michigan and until now spent it's entire career on the great lakes. You say the phole should have a plastic fitting attached to a tube running thru the cowling. Does the tube go to the top of the motor ? The phole I mentioned is on the bottom port/left side when viewed from the stern and looks as is it goes right thru the lower cowl/case directly into the head. I do not see where a tube would fit. I attached a couple of pictures that show the location of the phole. Thanks for your help.
Denis

 

[carholme]

Re: Manual source

The holes in the cowling may have been where they had the tube coming through but the plastic fitting fits directly into a hole in the lower left corner of item 7 in this link:

Mercury & Mercruiser Parts, CYLINDER BLOCK AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY, MERC 450/500

You can just about see the hole directly above the aft left stud.

Gerry

 

[denblaq]

Re: Manual source

Gerry, Thanks for the reply. Yes, I see what you are referring to. I just ordered the service manual from ebay so I will be able to drop the lower unit and replace the impellor with confidence. Now once that is done and I get her running and if there is still no water coming out of the phole should I assume it is clogged ? Is the water stream that comes out just an indicator that the impellor is good ? Will that clogged hole cause any damage as long as the impellor is functioning properly ?
Regards, Denis

 

[carholme]

Re: Manual source

If there is no water coming out there, it indicates that there may be a blockage in the internal passageways. Water from the pump, circulates through the block and exits out the hole we are talking about. Let us know when you get the lower unit removed. The condensed manual I sent you should let you get this done. See page 112 and figure M7-28. When it is off, you can then lift the waterpump housing and see what the impeller looks like.

Gerry

 

[denblaq]

Re: Manual source

Thanks Gerry, I will let you know how it turns out. Also, should there be some sort of inline gas filter installed? I know the carbs have internal strainers but there was not any external filter in the fuel line from the tank to the motor.
Thanks, Denis

 

[carholme]

Re: Manual source

Denis;

Many people on here claim that they are a must but I don't use them, even in these days of Ethanol. I do on my larger boat with integral fuel tanks but not for smaller outboards using 6 gallon external tanks. What I do use is:

http://www.petrochemsuppliesgs.com/paste.html

to test for water before the fuel goes into the external tank. If a filter/water separator makes you feel better, that is up to you.

Gerry

 

[Mi duckdown]

Re: Manual source

Denis. once you get that manual, you can rebuild it from top to bottom. Believe ME.
The good thing is you can read that manual in you easy chair.

 

[denblaq]

Re: Manual source

I hope a rebuild will not be necessary. The day I picked up the boat in Michigan the former owner and I ran it around the lake and it ran great at speed. The only problem was is that the motor stalls at idle either in gear or neutral. Another concern is no water coming out of the phole. We ran the motor for about one half hour at various speeds and it did not overheat or show any signs of strain. According to the person I bought it from the motor was rebuilt about 10 years ago but had only been ran about 5 hrs. since that time. I am a fairly proficient mechanic so I spent sometime with the condensed manual from the link Commander Gerry sent me. I could see right away that all three carb adjustments were off. I plan to drop the lower unit today or tommorrow and see what condition the impellor is in.
Regards, Denis
P.S. I see from your handle you are from Michigan. Where are you located ? I lived in Clarkston before retring and moving to Florida.

 

[Mi duckdown]

Re: Manual source

Dearborn, MI. Buy that OEM manual that carholme suggested. worth every penny for that motor. Plus some.
They are becoming like hens teeth. .02

 

[Mi duckdown]

Re: Manual source

denblaq. if you have not bougt that manual shame on you.

 

[denblaq]

Re: Manual source

Well I have the manual and want to drop the L/U and check out the impellor. So the first thing I try to remove is the trim tab. Going by the manual I look in the access hole to loosen the allen head screw that holds the trim tab in place and what I see is what appears to be an allen head that has been rounded off. So I fiddle with the trim tab and find it is not so tight, in fact I can rotate it about 30 degrees either way and the allen head or whatever it is also rotates. In fact I cannot figure out how I would get the allen head out even if it was not messed up. The darn thing has a diameter larger than the access hole. Does anyone know what the size of the allen head is suposed to be i.e., 3/8" or what ? I could cut away a section of the L/U with a dremel to get at the problem but that would be a last desperate act. Has anyone encountered this before ? Help !