marine amplifier

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Hey guys I am thinking about putting an amp in my boat.
I currently have in the boat, an OEM Clarion marine head unit 50x4.
4 aftermarket polk audio MM651um
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14717_Polk-Audio-MM651UM.html

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how big of an amp I need. I would like to keep it reasonably priced. Just looking for a good amp that will give these speakers the extra omph they want. Thanks in advance.
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: marine amplifier

Mine is 6 watts x 2.
It works perfect and sounds great.
I can here it fine from anywhere on my 21 foot boat and it does not bother other boaters.
 

keninaz

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
448
Re: marine amplifier

Buy what you want, just don't park next to me.
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

Buy what you want, just don't park next to me.

I Can promise That I am not an obnoxious stereo player. I like my music to sound a little bit better than it does right now. We take a lot of long rides, And sometimes 1 the music sound better at speed.
Also where we boat is not a quiet place to begin with.
 

Jerryh3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
325
Re: marine amplifier

I just bought the MB Quart NAU460 from Sonic. Seemed like the perfect size and price to drive the four 6.5 coaxs. Can't give any reviews yet, but 60-80 watts per channel should be sufficient for those speakers.
 

keninaz

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
448
Re: marine amplifier

I Can promise That I am not an obnoxious stereo player. I like my music to sound a little bit better than it does right now. We take a lot of long rides, And sometimes 1 the music sound better at speed.
Also where we boat is not a quiet place to begin with.

Nothing wrong with that. I just hate it though when some guy pulls into a nice quiet cove that I am fishing at and blasts me. And it's happened more than once to me in the past.
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

I just bought the MB Quart NAU460 from Sonic. Seemed like the perfect size and price to drive the four 6.5 coaxs. Can't give any reviews yet, but 60-80 watts per channel should be sufficient for those speakers.

Thanks Jerry! That is the type of information I was looking for. Let me know how it turns out for you. Ihave looked at that one as well. My local stereo shop has a sony that is around the same price and power. Any thoughts on them?
 

daverulz

Cadet
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
6
Re: marine amplifier

just stay away from the pyle/pyramid/dual/boss garbage.

The Sony will probably be reliable, most of their newer stuff is ok, they seem to be pulling out of the horrendous xplode days (very poor quality) The MB quart (made by maxxonics) is prob a good bet also. Good price point, and well renowned as a nice budget option in car audio circles. Don't think you really want to make the price jump to JL or alpine as their amps are significantly more expensive than others. The benefit to their amps are they are either full-range class D or class G/H which make better use of your batteries power and also deliver in a smaller package. Other brands to look at are Clarion and Kicker, both of which have marine lines, the clarions have been around a long time, so you might be able to find a used one.
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

thanks for the replies.

How difficult is it to install an amp. Is it something I can do fairly easily, or do I need to have it done professionally. I am reasonably competent with electronics I have not done this however. It is very expensive to have done and my budget is tight.
 

Jerryh3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
325
Re: marine amplifier

Nothing too difficult. Just some power wires, signal wires, and the speaker wires.
 

daverulz

Cadet
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
6
Re: marine amplifier

Installing an amplifier and speakers is very easy. I'll go over the physical connections and then the settings.

Physical connections


before making any connections to the battery disconnect the negative terminal to protect you and your boat!

Battery Positive - You must run a wire from your boat's postive battery terminal to the amps positive battery input. Usually Red in color (other colors are available in kits, and many car audio companies offer a variety, red is the standard). Most amplifiers over 200 watts total you will want to use a minimum of 8awg wire, larger amps may require 4awg, and multiple amps may require up to 0awg. Check your amplifier's manual for what the manufacturer recommends. Also, this wire should be fused within 18" of the battery to protect your boat. Use a fuse that is just large enough to not blow under normal conditions. This way it will blow as quickly as possible if there is a problem. Leave the fuse out until all connections are made and you are ready to fire the system up.

Battery Negative - Run the same size wire as you used for the positive connection all the way back to the negative terminal. Usually black in color, other colors available as mentioned before.

Remote Turn on - an 18awg wire, usually blue in color, connects to the remote output from the head unit. This wire turns the amplifier on and off with the head unit

A pair of output terminals for each channel - Positive and negative for each speaker

RCA inputs for each channel - connectors like those found on your VCR or TV. Usually a red (right) and a white (left). These connect to outputs on the back of the head unit. Not all head units have RCA outputs, and that would necessitate the use of a line output converter (often referred to as a LOC) or an amplifier that accepts high level inputs.

Mounting and running wires

You'll want to mount the amplifier in a place where it will stay dry and is out of the way. Usually they are mounted on a vertical surface tucked up under a console, high and dry so to speak. Although amplifiers may be specifically designed for marine use, that does not make them water proof!

All wires should be run in an out of the way place where they will not get hooked, caught, scraped or chafed. A good idea is to use zip ties every foot or so if you've got multiple wires running together (ie the power and ground wires) and to tie them up to existing structure where they will be out of the way.

All wire ends should be terminated using gold plated spade connectors (if the amplifier accepts them)
and connections should be covered with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. The less wire that is exposed, the less of a chance of corrosion. Any connection that requires two wires be connected together should be soldered and then covered with adhesive lined heat shrink.

On that note, the type of wire you use is important as well. Many in car audio circles just use welding wire, but there are other options. Oxygen free copper is good, but will still corrode once the wire is exposed. Tinned Oxygen free copper works very well too. Copper clad aluminum is not bad per say, but has less current carrying ability than an equivalent copper conductor, so keep that in mind when you're looking at the prices of this stuff.

I tend to get all of my wire from Knukonceptz.com (a car audio vendor) they have great prices, fair shipping, and good product from my experience.

Settings
Most current amplifiers have a few settings that you will need to make.

Crossovers - Most amplifiers have built in crossovers. Crossovers can be used to protect your speakers from frequencies they can't handle or to filter out frequencies you don't want to hear. Most amps will have 3 settings HPF/FULL/LPF (high pass filter / Full range / Low pass filter). HPF will filter out low frequencies. You use this to protect your full range speakers from possibly damaging low frequency information. full range is simply that, all frequencies are allowed to pass. Low pass will filter out high frequencies. You use this to filter out high freq information from your subwoofers. To put it simple, small speakers can't produce low frequencies at high output. to combat this you use a crossover to filter out the low frequency information and therefore protect your speakers. Look at the published specifications for your speakers to determine the lowest they can safely play, and then use that as a baseline for your crossover setting. A good baseline for 6.5" speakers is 60-80hz. For 6x9 speakers is 30-50hz.

Gain - The most critical setting on any amplifier is the gain setting. There are lots of tutorials and methods for doing this that you can find on the interwebz, but the best way I know of is to do it by ear. This does require that you can identify distortion when you hear it though.

Start by turning the gain on the amplifier turned all the way down (fully to the left) there are different ways that manufacturers mark their gain settings, some use voltage, some use min/max. If it is marked with voltage, note that the larger voltage will be a lower gain setting.

Insert the fuse into the fuse holder and turn on the stereo(keep the volume low right now), check the amplifier's status lights to make sure that it is in fact turning on and operating correctly (RTFM to learn more about this). Once you have verified that everything is hooked up and working, with the gains still set to their lowest setting, raise the volume of the head unit to approximately 2/3. This is basically your rough max setting for the volume. This accomplishes 2 things. 1. it assures that you are not sending a clipped/distorted signal from your source unit to your amp and 2. it allows a little bit of leeway in the volume control for softly recorded tracks.

Now slowly raise the gain on the amplifier until one of two things happens. 1. you hear distortion from your speakers or 2. your ears bleed (ie it's loud enough!)

Bass Boost/Bass EQ/ etc - It's my recommendation to never use these settings as they almost always are used improperly, and WILL result in damage to your speakers.


I think that covers it...

Dave
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

Holy Smokes!!!! Thanks Dave!

That is the clearest most consice explanation I have ever read or heard. Thank you so much. I have absolutley no doubt that with that explanation and some directions I can absolutley do this. I will let you know how it goes, it will be a minute. Today found out about some house repairs that must be done.

I hope the Mods make this a sticky.
 

Jerryh3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
325
Re: marine amplifier

One more thing I forgot about my install. I'm also adding a second battery. Don't feel like having a "no-start" after a day of playing the stereo.
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

OK so I am searching around for amps, and I have another question.

Is it better to use a four channel amp with one channel per speaker.
Or a two channel amp with a pair of speakers on each channel?

I had one stereo shop tell me one and one tell me the other. Both say their way is the best. Why?:confused:
I have also seen diagrams that show both.
Thanks guys.
 

Jerryh3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
325
Re: marine amplifier

Depends on the amp. Using two speakers per channel would put a 2 Ohm load to the amp which I wouldn't do with lower end amps. I would use a four channel that way you still have fader control.
 

daverulz

Cadet
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
6
Re: marine amplifier

What he said

Either way is fine, using a 2 channel amplifier with a pair of speakers per channel presenting a 2 ohm load allows you to get the most power out of your amp as most amplifiers produce more power into a 2 ohm load than a 4 ohm. This is most likely why shop A thinks this is the best way to do it.

That being said, ohm's law holds true (Electrical Current in Amps=Power in Watts/Electrical Resistance in Ohms)

So:
100w/4ohms=25amps
100w/2ohms=50amps

So for the same power, you need more amperage, this is why shop B thinks running at 4 ohms is best.

I'd go the 4 channel 4 ohm route personally
 

daverulz

Cadet
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
6
Re: marine amplifier

Congrats! Good purchase! Make sure that your wiring kit came with ground wire that will reach all the way back to the battery. The car audio kits usually only have about 3ft.
 

Jerryh3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
325
Re: marine amplifier

Good buy. Just got mine the other day. Seems pretty well built. Sonic doesn't sell any wiring kits with equal lengths of Positive and Negative wire, so you may need to get some extra ground wire to get back to the battery. I picked up this wire to run to the battery:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-2-...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item43a41594f2
Also, make sure you fuse the positive wire right at the battery.
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
413
Re: marine amplifier

So my next question is where do you guys mount these things? I was planning on mounting in the engine compartment. I know there may some concerns with heat but I do not really want to use up my already limited storage space.

I have a large heavy duty plastic bin that came mounted in the boat in the engine bay. I was thinking of mounting it on the back side of that. My life jackets are stored in this container. Is this a bad idea?
I can try to get some pics of this container I know I am not describing it very well.
thanks guys
 
Top