Marine Coil vs Automotive Coil.. Does it matter? 5.8 volvo

[Burns363R]

So i broke the ground terminal off my stock coil. It was corroded. Can i just put an automotive one in? Someone said that they may be hotter than what the marine uses, but is that really an issue if the boat isnt getting hot?

Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

The only difference is some coils have an internal resistor.
The resistor breaks the voltage down from 12 to 9.
Make sure your replacement is the same.
Depending on the model???? Some had a resistor block separate from the coil.
Some models have a resistor lead going to the coil.
When you ask: add the model, year, and any info that might help???

 

[Burns363R]

Is that something i can test with a multi meter

 

[Scott Danforth]

A good marine coil will have brass contacts. Automotive may have zinc plated steel.

Im currently running a MSD Blaster for high vibration applications. Its recommended for off-road and marine use.

 

[Burns363R]

Well i bought a plain automotive one that has the zinc contacts. I got the one with the internal resistor, because i dont remember seeing one in the cord going to the distributor cap.

 

[Burns363R]

Well all my plug wires have resistance in them. One of the plug wires had 13k ohms, while the short wire from the coil going to the distributor was only 3.5k ohms. I think its about 10k ohms per foot of wire, so thats in the ball park.

i have to take my coil back to the store, i gambled and bought a resister coil, i need a non resister coil.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The voltage to the points should be 9v

 

[Scott Danforth]

Jerry, the OP's boat was built in the 90's, it would have a prestolite electronic distributor - no points.

 

[Burns363R]

So am i correct in assuming i need a non resistor coil, since all my wires have resistance built in.

 

[Maclin]

No, that is not what determines the type of coil. The coil type is based on the ignition circuit supply to the Positive terminakl on the coil, whether or not it is the full 12v or ballasted (resisted) down to 9v or so. Your coil may have been marked as to what type its is internally resisted or not. I will try to look up your ignition wiring to see it it is ballasted or not. If your ignition has ballast then you need an externally resisted/ballasted coil. If the ignition is not ballasted then you need an internally resisted coil.

 

[Maclin]

It seems that the manual for your engine is only available to be ordered in printed form and not available as a free download from the Volvo site.

 

[Burns363R]

Great. Well now what do i do. haha. Where is the volvo manual site?

 

[Maclin]

I would look at the old coil. Usually when they are internally ballasted they are marked that way.

 

[Burns363R]

Its not marked. I just bought one off ebay that is an OEM one for that application. Thanks

 

[Maclin]

Vovo Penta publication search link...:
http://www.volvopenta.com/VOLVOPENT...LICATION_SEARCH/Pages/publication_search.aspx

 

[jerryjerry05]

Try putting 12v into the old coil and read the voltage coming out.
If it comes out 12 then you need a coil without an internal.
If it comes out 9 then get one with the resistor.

 

[Maclin]

Its not marked. I just bought one off ebay that is an OEM one for that application. Thanks

If it is OEM for that Volvo 5.8FL app then should be good to go.

 

[gm280]

I have no idea what your coil looks like, but maybe you could drill out the remaining metal and tape it for a brass screw to repair the old coil. I actually recently did that for my neighbor's Onan power generator coil. His coil broke off one of the wire connections leaving nothing but a little brass stub remaining. I smoothed out that protruding stud and drilled it out for a 6-32 brass screw to fit. And it now works like new again. A new coil for that engine was well over $110 dollars... JMHO