Marine starter connections

[LadyAnya]

I wanted to know what the "R" and "S" connections on the starter are for. I want to make sure I have it hooked up correctly.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

The "S" terminal is the terminal that actuates the solenoid and is wired to the "S" terminal on the ignition switch. The "R" is the resistor lead which bypasses the ballast resistor so the coil sees full 12 volts during starting. I take it you have an I/O as a two stroke outboard does not use that terminal.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

Yes, its an AQ271c. If the "R" and "S" wires are reversed would that cause ignition to cut when the key switch moves from start to on?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

The solenoid would not engage. When the key is in the start position the "S" terminal is energized which actuates the solenoid. The solenoid then connects the very large battery terminal from the battery directly to the starter motor. At the same time, the "R" terminal is inergized to feed full 12 volts to the coil during starting. When you release the key, the coil is powered through the "I" (ignition) terminal on the ignition switch but it passes through the ballast resistor on its way to the coil. If the engine starts, but dies when you release the key, you may have an open ballast resistor (no current to the coil). The ballast resistor is bypassed during starting which is why the engine starts.

If the engine has an electric fuel pump, the oil pressure switch has a set of contacts that kills the fuel pump if the engine loses oil pressure. Since there is no oil pressure during cranking, there is a bypass circuit for the pump as well. If you have a mechanical fuel pump this is not an issue.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

I recently bought an ignition coil with an internal resistor. I think I am missing something somewhere.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

Did the boat have the ballast resistor as a separate piece or a piece of resistance wire in the harness originally? In other words, did the original coil have an internal resistor or not? You can't run both. Why did you change the coil? Let's have the entire story here. Troubleshooting remotely is like not telling your Doctor the truth about the ailments. Makes it tough to get a proper diagnosis.

Do you have a voltmeter and if so, do you know how to use it?

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

When I bought the boat it came with an Accel ignition coil that was leaking fluid from the top. The boat would start but would die, just like now. The wiring from the engine to the console was terrible and probably would have caused a fire somewhere. I rewired the engine using the boats original diagram. I never saw a ballast resistor or a piece of resistance wire when I removed the old wiring.

I do have a voltmeter and I know how to use it. I have checked the coil with the key switch at the "On" position and there is power getting to it. However, I think something happens when I go from "start" back to "On", electrically. It will rev as long as the key is at "start", as soon as I let go, it dies. I don't think its timing or carb issues yet. The original schematics of the Aq271c does show a resistance wire in there some where but I don't have it. Shouldn't the internal resistor of the coil take its place?
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Elec...uments-Aq271c/dm/store_id.366--view_id.329488

I very much appreciate you taking the time to help me.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

If the coil has an internal resistor then the external ballast resistor is not needed. I don't understand why there would be power to the coil with the key in the RUN (on) position, but that it disappears when going from START back to RUN (on). My suggestion would be to turn the key OFF, then turn it to RUN (on) and rather than use the key to start the engine, jump the starter solenoid. If the engine stays running, I would suggest you have a bad ignition switch. If it still dies, I would need to study the schematic to come up with a potential cause. If you don't know how to "jump" the the solenoid, use a short piece of wire and touch one end to the "S" terminal and the other end to the large terminal that has the POSITIVE battery cable connected to it. It will spark a bit on initial contact so don't let it scare you. I would also try running the engine with the "R" terminal disconnected. That terminal is for starting only and with an internal resistor, I don't know how that terminal would be able to bypass the resistor anyway.

In looking at the parts diagram, it appears the engine has a "Race Gard" option which is apparently a rev limiter. If yours has this device, then it may be the culprit. As for actual wiring, I can't tell from your diagram where the issue might be. I did notice however, that the ignition coil has been superceded by two new numbers. I'm wondering if perhaps you have an incorrect coil and an external ballast is actually required.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

I will try your suggestions as soon as possible. This is a hurdle I need to get over to continue progressing on the boat.

It also didn't come with a race gard. I have to do more research regarding the external ballast.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

I looked at my key switch yesterday and the way that its currently wired is the only way the starter will not go off in the "On" position. I think its wired wrong, but its the only way I found.

3- prong switch
B- + from battery
S- from ignition coil
I- from starter solenoid

 

[Don S]

Re: Marine starter connections

For one thing, you don't have a ballast resistor. You don't (or shouldn't have) a points ignition system on the 271C, it has the BID electronic ignition. Get the proper coil and try it.

3- prong switch
B- + from battery
S- from ignition coil
I- from starter solenoid

Yes, it's wired wrong.
B + from the battery is correct The S terminal should have the yellow/red START wire on it.
The I Ignition terminal should have the Purple wire on it.


Next, the wiring on your starter should be your large wires going to A, your Yellow/red wire will go to B, there should be no wires on D or C on your engine.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

Since my key switch is wrong, why is that in any other position the starter gets power and cranks at the "On" position before I reach "start" on the switch?

Is there any way around the ballast resistor for now, just to get to idle?

 

[Don S]

Re: Marine starter connections

When you first turn your key on to the run position, they way you now have it wired will put power to the start relay instead of the coil.

Is there any way around the ballast resistor for now,

Just leave it out, the purple wire should go to the coil, not a ballast resistor and there is no hot start from the starter on that model.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

You don't have an external ballast resistor. And the miswired ignition switch is why the engine cranks and starts but quits when you let go of the key. Get the ignition switch wiring correct first. So lets do this by the numbers.

1) Disconnect the small wires at the starter solenoid.
2) Make sure you have a constant +12 volts on the "B" terminal of the ignition system.
3) The "I" terminal on the ignition switch DOES NOT go to the solenoid -- it goes to the ignition system. To verify this, turn the key to RUN (ON) and verify that the coil is seeing power. Turn the key off to ensure voltage goes to zero.
4) Now connect a voltmeter to one of the two wires you disconnected at the solenoid.
5 Connect a voltmeter between one of those wires and ground.
6) Turn the key to START. If you see 12 volts on that wire you know that wire comes from the "S" terminal on the switch and that wire then goes to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.
7) If you DID NOT see 12 volts on the wire in step 6, move the meter to the other wire and repeat step 6.
8) Attach the correct wire as determined in step 6 or 7 to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.

 

[LadyAnya]

Re: Marine starter connections

Alright, fixed the ignition switch wiring. It's works like it's supposed to, thanks to you both.

And it idles! Woohoo, thanks again!

 

[Don S]

Re: Marine starter connections

Now, in order to resolve the next issue of start but no idle, I need the ballast resistor?

NO!..... As I stated before, you DO NOT/Should Not have one, you have electronic ignition that doesn't require it.
If you DO have one in the system, that may be why it won't idle.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Marine starter connections

To others that may have followed this series of posts, do you see how important DETAILS are! This post started out as a very simple "what do the "S" and "R" terminals mean on the starter solenoid. As more and more information was extracted, it was not those two terminals at all that caused the problem but rather ignition switch replacement that was miswired. When asking for help, include what it is you are working on, why you are working on it, what you've done, what the symptoms are, and any other details even remotely involved in the issue. As I pointed out here and many other times, your doctor can't come to a reasonable diagnosis of your health problem unless you give him something to go on. "Not feeling good" doesn't help him much.