Marine Starter Question Chev 5.7L vortec engine

76SeaRay

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I need to buy a new marine starter for my 1996 Chev 5.7L Vortec engine. When I look up starters, the listings show starters for Mercruiser 5.7L from 1998 to 2001. Chev vortecs all used the same "880" block from 1996 to 2001 and I believe the same starters. The vortec designation is only due to heads and maybe the roller cams. Does anybody know why the Mercruiser marine starters only show 1998 to 2001 under the Mercruiser listings?
 

alldodge

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Many of us don't know why Merc does what they do, its a "Merc" thing and we wouldn't understand :D :pound: :facepalm:

Would strongly suggest getting a permanent magnet starter
 

tank1949

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What every you buy, please make sure it is marine protocol complaint.. I believe it is SAEJ1171
 

76SeaRay

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No problem on getting marine compliant as I do believe in safety. Just having a hard time identifying a starter to use with the engine... Guess I will order one for a 1998 to 2001 and see if it fits/works ok...
 

Lou C

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Ok the main differences were some engines used the staggered pattern with the starter bolts offset and some used the straight across bolt pattern; this has to do with the diameter of the flywheel. The 14” flywheel used the staggered pattern. You can use an inspection mirror to see which one you have. The Older direct drive starters used a front brace the newer permanent magnet gear reduction starters do not. They are much lighter and easier to install. I just put one in my 88 4.3 V6. They are half the weight, crank faster and draw less amps. Note to self:
turn off the batt switch before disconnecting the starter wiring to avoid shorts. Take a pic with your phone of your wiring connections on the solenoid and keep in mind there are ones with 3 terminals and ones with 4 terminals; you need to check to make sure you get the right one. So it’s staggered bolts vs straight across and 3 vs 4 solenoid terminals. Be prepared for a workout if you got direct drive starter on there; heavy & awkward to remove..
 
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76SeaRay

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Thanks for the info and pics. I hadn't considered the new type of starter but will look into it. I am assembling my engine on a stand and took a look at it last night. I will need to spend a little more checking but the block (Chev 880 block) appears to have mounting holes for either offset or inline starter mounting. I believe the 1996 block used the offset mounting bolts though. My flywheel is a 168 tooth wheel so I believe a 14 inch. Will recheck everything tonight. I plan on bringing this engine up on a run stand outside the boat to break it in while I am restoring the stringers and deck. I will be lifting the long block in temporarily to make sure the front mounting points are correct before I rebuild the mounts and then the goes on the engine run stand. It used to have a 351w mounted so I want to optimize the mount locations for the Chev 5.7L before I restore the engine bay.....

By the way, is the starter you pictured what they call a gear reduction starter?
 

Searay205

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Both starters turn engine over at same speed about 200 rpm. the permanent magnet sounds like it doing more but it just due to the gear reduction noise. The old style starters while heavy are all but bullit proof. I had a number of the permanent magnet ones fail. don't ever hit on a permanent magnet one to get it to turnover you will ruin it for sure
 

Scott Danforth

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there are 4 marine starters for GM based motors. there is direct drive and PMGR, and there is staggered (168 tooth flywheel) and straight pattern (153 tooth flywheel).

the same starter will bolt to a 3.0, 4.1, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 6.2, 8.1, and 8.2 regardless of year. this covers the Gen 1, 2, and 3 SBC's

that is the beauty of the GM motor.
 

76SeaRay

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So, in looking at the starter options, I ran across this piece of information. It appears that special bolts are required if using a PMGR in place of an older standard GM starter:

When upgrading/converting from the SAE hole size old Direct Drive/Beer Can starter (3/8”) to the metric hole size PMGR starter (10mm), the bolts must be changed out to the conversion bolts that have metric shanks and SAE threads, and are made to make the final alignment and lock. Replacing the longer hole DD starter with the shorter hole PMGR starter will cause additional free space. DO NOT stack washers on the bolts to fill up this space as it prevents the features of the bolt from functioning properly. The starter mesh will not be correct and the starter may shift slightly on the mount. This is not only for marine applications, but all Delco pad mount starters. While some of the marine applications have OEM special bolt heads (12 point and smaller than normal hex bolt heads) making them easier to manuever tools into the tight spaces, the 9/16 hex is a normal OEM design bolt head (or metric similar 15mm).
 

rad1026

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Hey Lou, how the heck did you get the old starter out without pulling the engine?
 

Bondo

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It appears that special bolts are required if using a PMGR in place of an older standard GM starter:

Ayuh,...... 'n they're slightly shorter too,..... the old bolts will bottom out, 'n not really tighten the starter sometimes,.....
 
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