MC-1 Gimbal bearing snap ring.

[baconbiscut]

I have an early 70's vintage Merc 140. Just did U-Joints on the drive now I'm trying to replace the gimbal bearing. Mine has the snap ring, I'm having a difficult time getting snap ring pliers down in the gimbal housing to remove it. Do you guys have any tips or tricks for getting it out? I couldn't find a super long set of snap ring pliers at the hardware store.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Here are a few other posts for you to check out from the archives... just don't comment in any. They are just for research and commenting in them will get them locked out.

Ziggy in Post#5 talks about your issue
Old style gimbal bearing snap ring

And this one:

Also this one:

The part number for the actual long snap ring tool is:

Mercruiser 91-37240A1​

There's a used one on ebay right now for 99 clams plus shipping if you search that part number.

 

[baconbiscut]

Thank you sir, I'm gonna try and modify a long needle nose today and see how it goe

 

[baconbiscut]

Update: Got the gimbal bearing out, the snap ring was a pain. I got a set of long snap ring pliers and just had to tap them in with a hammer to get a good bite on the snap ring. It took me a while to figure that part out. I've attached some pictures of tool and old bearing. It appears to be in ok shape. A little bit of grittiness but not bad. Question though, the bearing I purchased is greaseable but there's no grease port on my housing. I'm thinking about greasing the new one on the bench and installing it to get me through the season. I plan on pulling the drive in the fall and doing bellows and a shift cable as they are in okay condition for now but want to replace eventually. Any thoughts on this? Also the old bearing was in a plastic cartridge with brass shims I assume the shims do not need to go back in?

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Good deal. Glad you got it. Do you have an alignment bar? I don't see why you couldn't grease it before installing it. I don't know about the shims, I though I remember seeing them mentioned in one of those posts I have above. Others that know better will hopefully comment.

 

[baconbiscut]

I have the alignment tool and the alignment is excellent, slides right in and out. I installed the new bearing without those shims it fits fine. It's hot outside so I was struggling to get the drive back on and tore up the new gasket in the process. Any tips for getting the drive back on? I felt like I needed 3 extra hands.

 

[kenny nunez]

The plastic liner and shims was used in up to the early 70s. You do not need the snap ring anymore.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I installed the new bearing without those shims it fits fine.

Did you use an installer when hammering in the new type bearing?

 

[baconbiscut]

I used an installer that goes over the alignment tool to install the bearing, it's in straight. I think I just need to get some blocks underneath the front of the trailer so I don't have to lift the whole weight of the drive. Gonna pick up a new gasket from west marine tomorrow and try again.

 

[nola mike]

Depends on where you're getting stuck. I've found that the key is to get the drive perfectly parallel to the bellhousing. Drive sits on the ground, lift/lower trailer as necessary. How do you not have a grease zerk on your drive? I can't imagine they put in greaseable bearings without a way to grease them.

 

[kenny nunez]

Be sure to glue the large sealing ring in the bell housing and let it dry good.
If that seal slips you will get water in the bellows and through the breather hole in the gimbal housing.
Setting the trailer so that you do not have to lift the drive is a very good idea if you do not have a hoist to hold it. A floor jack is helpful also.

 

[baconbiscut]

Thanks for all the help guys, I got it all back together and the new U-Joints solved my vibration problem but I found out when running on the muffs that the water hose from the drive to the motor is split. So it's all gonna have to come back apart. Thought I could get away with just the bearing and U-Joints. I'm gonna get pretty good at this by the time I'm done. I'm definitely ready to hit the lake though. Gotta keep this garage kept queen running.

 

[baconbiscut]

Update: I got the bell housing off, I was thrown off by the old school hinge pins but they came out easily. I'm going to replace the greaseable gimble bearing with a sealed unit. I have a bellows kit with new hoses and clamps. I have a couple of questions.

1. The bellows kit and shift cable is from SEI, is the quality on these parts decent or should I go OEM? I would like to not have to do this job again for a couple years.

2. Is there anything else I should consider doing while I'm here? This is my first time doing a repair like this, lots of experience with cars but I don't want to miss anything.

3. I'm going to replace the water pump, also from SEI. I see that the general consensus is to do it with the drive off. I was hoping to do this with it mounted because I don't have a drive stand. How much trouble will I run into if I do it this way?

 

[Pmt133]

Trying to lift and hold the drive up to put the halves back together while getting the drive shaft nd shifter in alignment is tricky but doable. I've taken the prop off and stuck the skeg in the lawn to do it without a drive stand. It is just an awkward height and angle to work at imo...

 

[Scott06]

Update: I got the bell housing off, I was thrown off by the old school hinge pins but they came out easily. I'm going to replace the greaseable gimble bearing with a sealed unit. I have a bellows kit with new hoses and clamps. I have a couple of questions.

1. The bellows kit and shift cable is from SEI, is the quality on these parts decent or should I go OEM? I would like to not have to do this job again for a couple years.

2. Is there anything else I should consider doing while I'm here? This is my first time doing a repair like this, lots of experience with cars but I don't want to miss anything.

3. I'm going to replace the water pump, also from SEI. I see that the general consensus is to do it with the drive off. I was hoping to do this with it mounted because I don't have a drive stand. How much trouble will I run into if I do it this way?

Go OEM for the bellows and water pump. My OEM bellows lasted 18 years . If you still have a good greaseable gimbal bearing then leave it there. you can check by turning it. Would also do the trim sender/limit if you have them (older ones do not) . Check alignment

I have done water pumps just by dropping the lower many times. Really just depends on how dexterous you are. Issue that some find easier is not messing up the seal in the upper when putting the lower back on. Also when whole drive is off you can pressure test it. You dont need a drive stand to reassemble it I have done it on a workbench or garage floor as well , certainly easier if vertical but can be done if you can handle half the drive.

When reassembling make sure its fully in fwd and hold propshaft or prop CCW to keep it from popping out of gear . Bungee on prop can do this. Make sure shift shoe in upper is fwd as well to align shift mechaism.

Get a factory manual has all this stuff outlined

 

[nola mike]

Update: I got the bell housing off, I was thrown off by the old school hinge pins but they came out easily. I'm going to replace the greaseable gimble bearing with a sealed unit. I have a bellows kit with new hoses and clamps. I have a couple of questions.

1. The bellows kit and shift cable is from SEI, is the quality on these parts decent or should I go OEM? I would like to not have to do this job again for a couple years.

Don't know about SEI quality--I'd assume on par with decent aftermarket (sierra) but not quite OEM. My last sierra kit is 5 years old and looks perfect. I've also seen differences in shift cable quality. In general I think the ones with the plastic coated core wire are pretty good. I'd stay away from bare metal. I also haven't had a problem with sierra pumps. I'm replacing them before they have a chance to go bad anyway.

2. Is there anything else I should consider doing while I'm here? This is my first time doing a repair like this, lots of experience with cars but I don't want to miss anything.

Upper shift shaft seal on the bell housing. Although that's easy to access with the drive off, so could hold off on that if you wanted.

3. I'm going to replace the water pump, also from SEI. I see that the general consensus is to do it with the drive off. I was hoping to do this with it mounted because I don't have a drive stand. How much trouble will I run into if I do it this way?

No way I'd do it with the drive on. Doesn't take much extra time, and IMO it's just way easier to get it right. I've never used a drive stand.

That transom hose on the other hand. Get OEM. It's a bear to replace that, and the OEM hose is molded better/fits easier.

I also wouldn't bother with the trim senders. Not sure on the MC-1, but on the A1G1 they're a PITA and relatively worthless anyway. The gen 2's are easier.

 

[baconbiscut]

I just wanted to say thanks, I got everything back together this afternoon. Bellows were a difficult job but I got it done with help from a manual.I’m glad I replaced the shift cable as well. I didn’t have the water pump in me this weekend, but I’ll most likely use the water pump I purchased from SEI. I checked the pressure at the thermostat it seemed very good. So I’ll probably lake test it and then replace it a couple of weeks from now when my back isn’t sore. Thanks again guys.