MC-1 parts

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

I am trying to find shift cables and parts, but I'm having a hard time finding anything that lists for the MC-1... I have just bought this boat and don't know much about it. Is there a supplier that covers these outdrives ?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Anoard,.... iboats carries a few lines of parts, 'n most all the parts available for the MC-1s,....

There's more links at the top of this page,....

The lower shift cable is usually just converted to the Alpha cable,....

 

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

Ok, how big of a deal is it to convert the an alpha cable. I have read a few posts about installing alpha 1 outdrive onto the mc gimble mout... Are they that similar?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... The alpha 1 will bolt onto an MC-1 transom assembly, 'n Run, No problem,... Plug, 'n play,....
There are a couple caveats, but need to know which motor yer runnin',...

There's a couple threads on page 1, maybe 2 right now, about doin' the Alpha cable swap,...
Ya need the right tap, to tap the housin' from the aft, rather than the forward entry of the MC-1,...

 

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

Its a 77 renken bowrider with a 120hp 4 cylinder, as identified by decal on valve cover , I believe it to be the 2.5 ,not the 3.0.

 

[Bondo]

Ok,.... The In-line GM motors, Yer's, the 3.0l, 'n the I-6 use a shorter input shaft, Vs: the normal MC-1, 'n All the Alphas, which use an input shaft, 'bout an inch longer,...

If you swap on the shorter input shaft, the Alpha 1 becomes a plug, 'n play drive for yer boat/ motor,...

 

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

That is good info to know, I'm hoping to be able to use the MC drive ... I bought this boat on Monday, and I've been able to get the old gas out and get it running, had to put in a new set of points. I'm going to have to go through the carburetor. But my biggest concern is , there was a noise from the outdrive that sounded as if splines weren't fully ingaged. I pulled the outdrive and the noise was gone. But as Ive done more research Im thinking its more of a cable issue causing the partial engagement in the lower unit. I am trying to find a good boat tech to go through the outdrive before I reinstall it. Im thinking i should replace the cable now rather than later.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Click on the limk in my signature that says Don'S Adults Only Section,....

There's days of readin' Great info in there,....

Ya oughta buy, 'n install a canister type fuel filter on it, just ahead of the fuel pump,...
It'll catch any left over crud in the fuel tank, 'n is a Great diagnostic tool in the future, with water, 'n ethanol gas,...

 

[khe]

With it in forward gear, remove the cotter pin that retains the brass barrel and remove the nut from the cable end. Remove the cable from the shift plate and measure from the center of the brass barrel to the center of the hole that the stud goes through while pushing the cable end in. The distance should be 6". If it is not, torn the brass barrel in the direction to obtain the 6" spread.

You can then push/pull the cable end with it disconnected to see if it operates smoothly. If you find that it does not operate smoothly, you may need to replace the shift cable.

To convert it to the Alpha shift cable, you will need a 1/4-18 STRAIGHT pipe tap and the special socket. I used a 9/16" spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed and had to grind the outside diameter of the socket down about .020" in order for it to clear the bellhousing wall. Do not buy a tapered pipe tap or you'll ruin the bellhousing. You need to tap the hole all the way through the bellhousing by starting with the existing threads that begin from the forward side of the housing. Use cutting fluid made for aluminum and go slow - taking the time to clear the tap of the chips so you don't gall the threads. I then started the tap from the opposite side very carefully to make sure the new shift cable would thread in without cross threading. Install the new sheath and tighten the brass fitting so that no more than two threads are showing. Use Perfect Seal on the fitting threads or pipe sealant with Teflon. This is a big job - In addition to the tools I mentioned above, you'll need an exhaust bellows installer tool, hinge pin tool, bellows adhesive, lacquer thinner, wire brush, emery cloth, and a torque wrench.

If you do wind up converting it to the Alpha shift cable, check the condition of the bellows - on a 40 year old boat, they might need to be replaced. Also check the condition of the trim sender wires on both sides - if the wires are rotted, it is prudent to replace them since you'll have it all apart anyway.

Also check the water inlet hose for signs of cracking.

 

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

Thanks khe , ur info wil prove valuable. My only question is, you said to use a straight pipe tap ... I have been 20 plus years in the mechanical fields and i have never encountered a straight pipe tap, always tapered, the taper is what allows the threads to seal.. Did you mean a regular thread tap, or is this a new tool i need to seek?

 

[Bt Doctur]

It is a special tap that is straight NOT TAPERED
INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT: This shift cable (which attaches to
bell housing from aft end) can be used on models
with old style shift cable (attached on front side
of bell housing). To do this, the threaded hole in
bell housing must be tapped all the way through,
using a 1/4-18 NPSF tap. This special STRAIGHT
THREAD TAP may be obtained through
Quicksilver by ordering 91-95639. The following
important information must be observed when
performing tapping operation.
? Tapping must be done from the front (bellows
side) end of bell housing to prevent crossthreading.
? Never use a TAPERED THREAD TAP as improper
positioning of shift cable may result,
or water may leak into bell housin

 

[makanik32@yahoo.com]

Ok. Let me first say ,you guys are rockstars.Ive gotten more info in 24 hours then a week surfing the web. Now i have degreased the area where the cable comrs though to hook up to the drive and i can see a nut. Looks like the 9/16 nut that i have seen in alpha cable swap videos. Im hoping this means the conversion has been done,and no need to remove any more parts.

 

[Bondo]

Now i have degreased the area where the cable comrs though to hook up to the drive and i can see a nut. Looks like the 9/16 nut that i have seen in alpha cable swap videos. Im hoping this means the conversion has been done

Ayuh,.... Sounds Good,....

 

[achris]

The 'conversion' consists of removing the old cable, cleaning the threaded hole the cable was in and installing the new style cable from the rear of the bell housing, instead of the original which was from the front. THAT is the conversion. Nothing difficult or mysterious...

Chris........