MC-1 (pre-alpha) lower gears

Finz123

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Aug 3, 2016
Messages
24
I am thinking my lower leg is in need of a rebuild, I found a used set of internals for a mercruiser 188. My boat is a gm inline 6 with the mercruiser 165. Would the gears out of the 188 fit my 165?
 

harringtondav

Commander
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May 26, 2018
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I've never had my mitts on one. I suggest using this site's parts catalogue to compare p/n between the two models. They show three 165s, but I didn't find a 188.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,335
Before the Alpha series all lower gear sets were the same. By conincedence 1.65 to 1. What is wrong with your original unit. Maybe it just needs new seals and a water pump.
 

Finz123

Cadet
Joined
Aug 3, 2016
Messages
24
My lower unit won't grab both gears. I did the lower shift cable and adjusted it to my manual specs. And was just barely able to get forward and reverse. I can adjust the cable to get forward really good but not reverse or get reverse really good but not forward.
 

Finz123

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Aug 3, 2016
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So I guess the parts I was looking at getting are from a 188hp mercruiser not a model 188
 

harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
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2,442
I think your lower gear (propshaft) hsg. hardware is OK, if the dog clutch holds FWD and REV, I think the problem is lost motion from your helm shift controller to the gear shift lever in the lower hsg. I'll ponder on this some more. There a lot of opportunities for looseness and slop. I'll get back w/my short list if someone else doesn't do it first.
 

harringtondav

Commander
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May 26, 2018
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Thinking more on this, raise the drive enough so you can see the engagement between the bell hsg shift lever and the lower gear hsg lever. Readjust so FWD engages. The lever should be dead ahead, forward, 12: o'clock. Neutral at 11; o'clock, REV: 10: o'clock. If you don't get this travel, your shift cables and mechanism probably have slop.

Next, pull the outdrive. Hold the O/D lever in FWD. It should move no farther right than dead ahead., With a prop on, rotate the prop CCW. It should lock solid, and ratchet CW, and you should feel the shift lever twitching. Move the lever to the left as far as it will go to the left, hold it and try locking the prop CW, ratcheting CCW. If good, your clutch is good. But If the lever goes much past 11 o'clock - 45 degrees, I'd suspect worn parts in the lower hsg shift yoke, splines, or shift spool. I think this would be rare since everything down there is submerged in lube.

Your controller should have enough throw to go much well past 45 degrees to hold force on the clutch in REV . You can check your controller's throw and slack by setting the cable adjustment back so the lever it's just a few degrees left of dead ahead with the controller in full FWD. (this important to insure the cable is preloaded a bit when the drive is back on) This will push the slack out. Be sure to have the lever's roller engaged in the shift cable slide slot. Hold some resistance on the bell hsg lever and have a helper shift to full rev. This will pull the slack out of the shift cables. There should be enough travel to push the outdrive lever well past it's 45 deg. REV engagement point.

It should add up that the cable's full travel should exceed the lever's travel. If not, either too much cable slack, or worn clutch shift parts in the hsg.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,345
If you replaced the shift cable you MUST have less than 2 threads visable or you wont get reverse.
the next is the shift spool, too much play will get you only 1 gear to engage
 

Finz123

Cadet
Joined
Aug 3, 2016
Messages
24
I will have to test the angles in the shift shaft, buy I think they are good. I know when the lower was off I couldn't manually switch gears and the prop would lock up like it is supposed to. I will have to check the shift spool. Not sure what you ment by "must have less than 2 threads visible"
 
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