Merc 500 long shaft to short shaft conversion

Papafluff

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
36
Hi I have a 1977 merc 500 that I'm converting from a long shaft to short shaft. I'm in the process of trying to find a short shaft lower unit. Rather than tear my long shaft apart to replace drive shaft I figured I'd just get another lower unit. I've found quite a few on eBay that are listed as short shaft but they tell me the length of drive shaft is 22-23" That's what mine measures and it's a long shaft. Am I missing something here? Shouldn't the short shaft measure around 17-18"? My motors serial number is 4708430 The parts catalogue shows different part numbers for short shaft and long shaft. So I'm either missing something or these people don't know the difference. Also is there any way to find out what motors lower units will work with mine? Any help here would be great and appreciated Thank you
 

emckelvy

Commander
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
2,506
A good boating friend of mine just got thru with this conversion and he ran the gamut of issues, but finally got it sorted out. As I recall the shaft length for a Shortie L/U was around 17-3/4" - 18", measured from the mounting flange of the L/U.

Check out this later-model short-shaft L/U on ebay; it's a little chewed, but there's a pic with the measurement, and that should be a good reference point for you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271910674986

I didn't know that they even made Shorties in the 90's but there it is!

Have you already found a short-shaft mid-section (exhaust tower)? There was one on eBay fairly cheap, but it finally sold just the other day. Maybe you got it!! :)

Note that if you found the short driveshaft in good condition, you could take apart your lower unit and swap out driveshafts. But you'd need to buy the special wrench used to remove/install the threaded gearcase cover.

There is a company back in Wisconsin that will shorten driveshafts and cut new splines for a reasonable price:

http://www.wintechenginemachine.com/index.htm

Might be cheaper than finding a driveshaft, you'd still have to dismantle your longshaft L/U.

You might also try your local Craigslist, it's summer and there's a never-ending supply of parts motors out there! You may find everything you need for way cheaper than eBay and far less labor than disassembling/reassembling a L/U.

HTH & G'luck with the conversion................ed
 

Papafluff

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
36
Thanks Ed
Yes that was me that bought the mid section :) I also bought the swivel shaft which is different on the short shafts. I have water tube shift shaft and Lower unit to go. I checked out the unit you found on eBay along with another I seen there both have the correct shaft length but here's my problem. I can't seem to match up numbers to see if they are compatible with my motor. I've spent hours trying to figure this out and can't seem to tie the two together with numbers. It's driving me nuts lol. The same mid-section is used so I would think they should work. If anyone out there can help me I would be forever grateful. Thank you Ed for your info and time greatly appreciated and thank you to anyone who helps me on my project :)
Joe
 

Star

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
481
Hi guy, I had the same problem, I put a new transom that was 5" higher than the original.. Problem solved! On a 14' Aluminum.
 

emckelvy

Commander
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
2,506
The best thing to do is to pull the powerhead on your longhaft motor. Then measure how much the shaft sticks up. Compare that to the measurement of how far the short-shaft L/U shaft would stick up. If they're the same, you shouldn't have any issues with shaft length.

As you probably already figured out, they haven't changed a heck of a lot on these motors since the 60's. If you look up the powerhead gasket, it's the same part number from about '66 up to the last 4-cyl "Classic" 40 or 45hp in the 90's.

One thing my buddy did run into was, the studs on the '81 50hp powerhead he was using are longer than older motors, and the mid-section he had was an earlier one. So, he had a lot of stud sticking down. He solved that problem very simply, just used some spacers with the powerhead nuts.

But the mid you have, as I recall, was from a '78-or-so motor, and should match up with what you have.

All those 4-cyl 44-cubic-inch L/U, from the mid-70's and beyond, use the same stud pattern. Earlier L/U's have a skinnier stud pattern on the upper 2 front studs, but again, as long as you find a L/U the same year or newer than your motor, you should be find.

That '90's L/U with the beat-up skeg is the cheapest one on eBay, and if you'll check out the bolt pattern, I bet you'll find that it'll bolt right up to your Shortie mid.

BTW my buddy put that 50hp Shortie on a 10' GW Invader that he restored. Quite a kick and the boat planes out almost instantly. He's still getting it sorted out and installed a nice set of pressure-ram trim tabs, which stopped the porpoising of the hull. He had too much pitch on his prop and ordered another one, if he wasn't working this weekend, he'd be dialing it all-in at the lake! 80+ degree weather in W. WA this week, man is it hot! But it's over 100 in E. WA, I'm not gonna complain too much!

That skeg could be weld-repaired, if you know a good TIG or MIG welder they could fix you right up. The L/U is the newer swept-fin design, which is more desirable and has better handling characteristics at higher speeds.

Shift shaft might be the tough one. BTW you can use an older shift shaft, it'll have a different connection to the shift arm, so you can't use the one from your engine. But if you order the older arm, it bolts up just fine. That's what my bud did, we found an NOS part on eBay and it fit perfectly.

There's one on there right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321336252822

You can use the exhaust tuner plate out of your motor. And as I recall, you can cut the exhaust tube, in fact there's a joint where Merc added the extra length for a longshaft. Just make sure to measure how far down the exhaust tube sticks into the longshaft mid, and ensure you cut the tube so it's the same length sticking down in the short mid as well.

Same goes for the water tube, it can be cut to the shorter length, as you'll see the bends are compatible. Just do the same as with the exhaust tube and measure where the tube sits in the lonshaft mid; it'll be the identical dimension as it sits in the shortie mid.

Maybe you already found those parts and don't need to chop anything, even better.

Cheers.............ed
 

Papafluff

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
36
Hi all Sorry for not replying sooner. It's summer and very busy :) Ed thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it has been a HUGE help. I've actually been able to locate all the parts I need for this conversion. I wanted to do this without altering anything so I could switch back to long shaft if I ever wanted to. The motor's not going anywhere I just love these older mercs. I actually have 2 of these classic 50's both tillers in great shape. I have a 1986 that still has 140 compression in all 4 tubes. This one I'm converting has 125 in all 4. I own a 1988 115 tower of power (the last year they made them) that is also in pristine condition. I have a 1987 70hp 3 cyl. 3carb a 1989 20hp tiller and a 1991 60hp 3cyl. 3 carb tiller. I just love these ole girls :) Thanks again Ed you've made this job a lot easier for me and I'll post back when I'm done. I'll even post some pics if I can figure out how lol. Enjoy the summer all and be safe Joe
 
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