Mercruiser 3.0 140 shakes at idle and bogs on acceleration. New Carb?

Doug L.

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 29, 2019
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Hi everyone. I am a new member to iBoats. I have received invaluable help from this forum in the past while building my project and have decided to join the community.

I recently restored a 1986 Glastron 19X ski boat (new deck, stringers, transom, etc.) and just finished rebuilding my engine (spun #1 rod bearing back in April). My engine is a Mercruiser 3.0L 140. The block’s serial number is 4943394 and Block Code M06037RA which would make it a 1977, model 140. The valve cover however, I believe is from the original ‘86 block as the serial number on it is A542548.

The issue I am having is with my engine. It bogs horribly on acceleration especially if I don’t go to WOT super fast. However, once I get past that bog she runs beautifully; very smooth and pulls under load no problem throughout the throttle. Second issue is when it idles, it’s not smooth. It shakes a lot especially when cold but will shake a fair amount too when hot. Strange thing is sometimes after warming up, it will idle smooth with no shaking but I’ll run it past idle and come back to idle and it’ll shake again and not smooth out.

My engine has the 1389-9350 MerCarb (which has the 3-3/4” x 2” bolt pattern base) that I believe was used on the 140s in the mid ‘80s. I also installed a brand new OEM stock mechanical fuel pump. I converted my stock Delco distributor from points and condenser to Pertronix 1146A Ignitor electronic ignition. The mechanical advance weights are operating and move freely. The cap, rotor, and plugs are 3 years old but are clean and plugs gapped to .035”. Also valves have all been adjusted per technical manual’s (number 10) instructions.

Here is what I have done. I’ve cleaned the carb twice using compressed air and carb cleaner through every port and galley clearing them of debris and installed a new kit w/ accelerator pump. I have set the air/fuel mixture screw with a vacuum gauge starting 1.25 turns out and tuned from there. The shaking at idle and air/fuel mixture screw response did improve a lot and the bog on acceleration improved only a little. My timing is set at 6 degrees at idle which is set to ~700 rpms in gear warm. I am thinking my carburetor is the source of my problems but would like to hear y’alls thoughts too. I have read where others solved their bog on acceleration my replacing their MerCarb’s main jets from 1.45mm to 1.65mm but haven’t attempted myself. From what I have read, the MerCarb is poorly designed with a faulty accelerator pump circuit that was never remedied.

I am leaning towards replacing this carb with a brand new casted carb, rather than a reman. Sierra offers a new casted replacement, 18-7370N, for my 1389-9350 which is around ~$400. Anyone experienced with it? National Carburetor also manufactures their own improved design replacement with better designed accelerator pump circuit and overall fuel delivery for $250 after core refund. However, it replaces 1389-9564 MerCarb (among others) which is an early ‘90s carb and after speaking to them on the phone, they said it’s a 50/50 chance it would work for my engine since mine is the “GM style MerCarb”. I do not think there’s that much difference between the 1389-9350 and the 1389-9564 but maybe so? National Carburetor did say they could rebuild my current carb for $200. Any other recommendations? I have been a customer of National Carb in the past and have been very pleased with their remans.

Bottom line, should I experiment more with my current carb, have it professionally rebuilt, or consider trying Sierra or National Carb’s replacement or something else? OR am I moving too fast and need to diagnose more extensively? I really appreciate y’all taking time to read this post and I will try to answer any additional needed details on my setup. I did the engine rebuild myself minus the machine work.

Pictures of my Engine and Carburetor can be found here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rcLp1fnnTBFcu4bLK3Rd7gi9m5INaoVE

Sierra Replacement:
https://www.marineengineparts.com/sierra-marine-18-7370n-carburetor

National Carb’s replacement from their eBay store and website:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/232836421042?ul_noapp=true

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/marine/twobarrelmerc.aspx

Thanks in advance!
Doug
 

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alldodge

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Your current problems are all carb problems. Getting a new (don't think there are any real new ones, just my opinion) or rebuilt, it all depends on how well it was rebuilt and if it needs to be readjusted due to shipping

BTW have you done a compression test?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I would spend $45 on a gasket kit and rebuild the carb vs spending $350 on a new carb.
 

Doug L.

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
30
Your current problems are all carb problems. Getting a new (don't think there are any real new ones, just my opinion) or rebuilt, it all depends on how well it was rebuilt and if it needs to be readjusted due to shipping

BTW have you done a compression test?

Hi AllDodge,

Yes, I have done a compression test and all four were ~150PSI. The carburetor was what I felt like it is too. Should I bother having my current one rebuilt or just go with a replacement?


Scott,

I've already spent the $45 on a rebuild kit and it helped with idle but still shakes at idle occasionally especially when cold. Acceleration bog improved very little. I'm afraid the accelerator pump well may be too worn.

Have either of you had experience with the above-mentioned carbs? I'm willing to spend the money but don't want to purchase one that will only give me the same problems. I can tune a carb as anything I'll order will only have been bench adjusted is my understanding.

The sierra carb link I posted earlier is broken so here it is again: https://www.iboats.com/shop/sierra-carburetor-18-7370n.html


Thanks guys,
Doug
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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chase each passage with a fine piece of wire or a piece of monofilament.

you left dirt in the accelerator circuit. (hence the bog) you are not "squirting" as you throttle up.

if you just did a carb rebuild, pull it back apart you can reuse your gaskets unless you tear them. make sure each passage is clean

the shaking is probably ignition related. make sure all cylinders are firing. you may have not seated a wire somewhere or you have a bad plug.

also check the contents of your fuel in a clear container. having water in the fuel will cause the motor to shake as well.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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another thing to check. if your distributor shaft is sloppy. not uncommon to need a new set of $5 bushings (napa) in the distributor
 

banderberg

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 30, 2022
Messages
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another thing to check. if your distributor shaft is sloppy. not uncommon to need a new set of $5 bushings (napa) in the distributor

Sorry to resurrect an old thread - how would I find the bushings for my old prestolite distributor? It's an IBM 7026 and I can't seem to find parts for it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
50,276
Sorry to resurrect an old thread - how would I find the bushings for my old prestolite distributor? It's an IBM 7026 and I can't seem to find parts for it.
you pull your distributor apart. you measure the shaft diameter, the bore diameter and the length of the bushings, and you go to NAPA and buy distributor bushings for the right shaft diameter and housing diameter
 
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