I was hoping to get some feedback to determine whether the coupler is damaged on my Mercruiser 888 (1974, Ford 302).
As background, I purchased the boat ~2 months ago. The previous owner had stated that previously, the coupler had failed due to a stringer failure (due to rot) under the front engine mount. The previous owner stated he pulled the engine / outdrive, stripped all rotted wood, reglassed, and remounted the engine / sterndrive. He also stated he reinstalled with a used coupler. As far as I can tell, he also reused the front and rear engine mounts. And the stringers and mounts are sound.
When I took this boat out, the engine / outrdive operated without incident under low power (idle to ~1500 rpm) in the water. When I opened the engine up to full power, I head a noise indicating major drive failure, immediatley shut down, and returned to dock with the trolling motor. I pulled the outdrive, and upon inspection there was a failure in both the U-joint (one bearing cup came off of the spider and was loose in the U-joint bellows so that the spider was free to move freely in the yolk), and the gimbal bearing (inner race spit in half and loose in the U-joint bellows, ball bearings loose in the U-joint bellows). I suspect these components were weakened by the previous coupler failure, and failed when I took it to full power.
Upon further inspection, the U-joint yolks and shaft, bell housing, gimbal housing and gimbal ring were not damaged. I pulled the remains of the damaged gimbal bearing and pressed on a new one. When I checked the alignment with the alignment tool I found:
1. I needed to raise the engine ~1 inch for the tool to slide into the engine coupler with no resistance. I suspect the previous owner did not correctly align the engine after the engine mount stringer failure.
2. If I rotate the crankshaft 180-degrees from the where the tool effortlessly enters the coupler with no resistance (i.e. 0-degrees), the tool will only enter the coupler half-ways (~1 inch) before meeting resistance. Also, if slide the tool into the shaft at 0-degrees (no resistance), rotate the crankshaft 180-degrees with the tool in the coupler, it is extremely difficult (but not impossible) to remove the tool
I suspect this means the coupler is damaged, such that the coupler (more specifically, the female splined shaft inside the coupler) is not parellel and centered to the crankshaft. Does this sound correct, or could this be a result of incorrect engine alignment? I'd like to rule that out before I pull the engine.
Any and all comments or suggestions are appreciated.
As background, I purchased the boat ~2 months ago. The previous owner had stated that previously, the coupler had failed due to a stringer failure (due to rot) under the front engine mount. The previous owner stated he pulled the engine / outdrive, stripped all rotted wood, reglassed, and remounted the engine / sterndrive. He also stated he reinstalled with a used coupler. As far as I can tell, he also reused the front and rear engine mounts. And the stringers and mounts are sound.
When I took this boat out, the engine / outrdive operated without incident under low power (idle to ~1500 rpm) in the water. When I opened the engine up to full power, I head a noise indicating major drive failure, immediatley shut down, and returned to dock with the trolling motor. I pulled the outdrive, and upon inspection there was a failure in both the U-joint (one bearing cup came off of the spider and was loose in the U-joint bellows so that the spider was free to move freely in the yolk), and the gimbal bearing (inner race spit in half and loose in the U-joint bellows, ball bearings loose in the U-joint bellows). I suspect these components were weakened by the previous coupler failure, and failed when I took it to full power.
Upon further inspection, the U-joint yolks and shaft, bell housing, gimbal housing and gimbal ring were not damaged. I pulled the remains of the damaged gimbal bearing and pressed on a new one. When I checked the alignment with the alignment tool I found:
1. I needed to raise the engine ~1 inch for the tool to slide into the engine coupler with no resistance. I suspect the previous owner did not correctly align the engine after the engine mount stringer failure.
2. If I rotate the crankshaft 180-degrees from the where the tool effortlessly enters the coupler with no resistance (i.e. 0-degrees), the tool will only enter the coupler half-ways (~1 inch) before meeting resistance. Also, if slide the tool into the shaft at 0-degrees (no resistance), rotate the crankshaft 180-degrees with the tool in the coupler, it is extremely difficult (but not impossible) to remove the tool
I suspect this means the coupler is damaged, such that the coupler (more specifically, the female splined shaft inside the coupler) is not parellel and centered to the crankshaft. Does this sound correct, or could this be a result of incorrect engine alignment? I'd like to rule that out before I pull the engine.
Any and all comments or suggestions are appreciated.