Merc never made a 'pre-alpha' drive. Call it by what it is, a 'Mercruiser-1' drive (MC-1 for short). Short of pulling the drive off (which I have done before buying a boat), check the gear oil. Just crack the bottom fill plug and let a drop of oil out. If it's new and pristine clean, be very suspicious. If it's pure water or water emulsified oil, run like heII, or be prepared to put another drive on.
The last year of the '898' was 1984, so the boat could be 1985. Look at the drive, if it has a lifting 'eye' on the top cap, it's 1982 or earlier. If the top cap of the drive is flat, it's 1983 or 1984 ('R' drive). Also see if the engine has points or electronic ignition. Points puts it before 1983. And the year of the hull and the year of the engine can be the same, slightly different, or vastly different (look at my boat
).
Do take some tools with you. Pull the prop off and inspect the shaft, look for lateral movement (there should be none), longitudinal (in/out) movement, about 1/4". When the engine is running (with the water hose), turn the steering full port, then full starboard and listen for a clicking or knocking, it could indicate unis or the gimbal bearing. Also ask for reciepts from the last service. See what was done. No reciepts, assume it needs a full service of everything! (
HERE is the quick list
)
Another thing to consider. You are buying a boat with an engine, not the other way around. If the hull is good and the motor is crap, but the price is right, grab it. You can always replace engines, drives and transom housings, but the hull is forever. Even the trailer can be easily replaced or repaired. But you should be concentrating your inspection on the hull. If you like the hull (and it's in good condition), but there are problems with the engine/drive, use that as a negotiating tool, not a deal-killer.
Chris........
