Mercury 100 2+2 Fuel issue?

nwboater45

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
91
I have a 1990 100hp 2+2. First of all I am new to this large of outboards. I was having an problem with it at low idle. Anyways I went through the service book and did the link and sync. While still having problems I reached down and grabbed the fuel bulb and starting pumping and there was no pressure then while pumping fuel the motor started to rev up. So the question is should there be constant pressure in the fuel line and the bulb be firm while the engine is running? If it is suppose to have constant pressure then what would cause it to loose pressure? I am guessing the fuel pump but not sure.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,894
The bulb is a one way pump. It sucks when it goes from relaxed to full when the outlet valve is closed, pulling fuel from the tank via partial vacuum it creates. On compression, the input valve closes and the outlet valve opens allowing fuel to flow to the engine. The fuel flows through internal tubing and by the valving in the fuel pump and continues on to the carb inlet needle valve which is open because the float is at the bottom of the carb and forces fuel into the carb bowl.

As the bowl fills, the float starts it's upward journey and in the process the arm on the float pushes against the inlet needle valve forcing it to close. When the float is at the full up position which is approximately parallel to the mating flange of the carb and bowl, measured with the carb inverted, there is enough pressure on the needle valve to hold it shut against the pressure of the bulb. When this occurs the bulb fills the line from the carb back to it and it gets firm because flow has no where to go.

Under normal operation, fuel obviously flows through the bulb due to the partial vacuum caused by the fuel pump diaphragm movement caused by engine crankcase pressure pulses. In this situation the bulb will have a soft feeling as there is flow into the carbs and out into the venturi.

If you are underway and the fuel pump is not developing adequate partial vacuum for the amount of fuel required to operate the engine the bulb will move toward the collapsed position which can be corrected by hand manipulation of the bulb (like when priming) which will cause increased fuel to flow into the carbs and on to the engine resulting in increased rpms.

This help?
 

CharlieB

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
5,617
The bulb will soften as the motor runs so that alone doe not prove a fuel pump problem. The bulb only needs a firm handshake, a bone crunching squeeze is too much and can over-pressure causing the needles to leak and flood the carbs.

The 2 + 2 only idles on the top 2 cyls. Squeezing the bulb and causing flooding can cause the lower cyls to fire and idle speed pick up.

A simple fuel pump test can be done cranking. Disconnect the fuel hose just after the fuel pump, point it into a suitable container and crank the motor while watching the fuel flow. You should see a strong pulsed flow. If not then order a fuel pump rebuild kit.

The 2 + 2 is critical in carb linkage adjustment, and is the only motor to have an accelerator pump that gives a squirt to the lower 2 cyls at that point in throttle opening to start combustion seamlessly.

Adjustments must be EXACTLY as spelled out in the factory service manual. This is the same motor I had on my small bass boat, it worked great. I wish I had another for my current boat.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,894
The bulb will soften as the motor runs so that alone doe not prove a fuel pump problem. The bulb only needs a firm handshake, a bone crunching squeeze is too much and can over-pressure causing the needles to leak and flood the carbs.

The 2 + 2 only idles on the top 2 cyls. Squeezing the bulb and causing flooding can cause the lower cyls to fire and idle speed pick up.

A simple fuel pump test can be done cranking. Disconnect the fuel hose just after the fuel pump, point it into a suitable container and crank the motor while watching the fuel flow. You should see a strong pulsed flow. If not then order a fuel pump rebuild kit.

The 2 + 2 is critical in carb linkage adjustment, and is the only motor to have an accelerator pump that gives a squirt to the lower 2 cyls at that point in throttle opening to start combustion seamlessly.

Adjustments must be EXACTLY as spelled out in the factory service manual. This is the same motor I had on my small bass boat, it worked great. I wish I had another for my current boat.

Funny how folks have different points of view. I bought the 3 cylinder 90 because I didn't trust the Link and Sync of the 4 cyl engines.
 
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