Mercury 40ELPT 4S Stiff Swivel Bracket, shift shaft removal help

[damorgan]

Looking for advise and tips to remove shift linkage from swivel/pivot tube on my 2006 3cyl 40hp 4 stroke. Engine runs, shifts and operates flawlessly but has terribly stiff steering. The stiff steering is fine for boating around, but when I need control, like when at busy ramps, the stiff and difficult to maneuver steering is cumbersome and potentially dangerous.

I am familiar with basic outboard repair, and tinker with all manner of machines but would like to pick the brains of somebody with experience with this before I end up breaking something on my new to me boat. Note: I work in aviation and may not use correct terminology so please go easy if i provide incorrect nomenclature to components and piece parts.

Recently I bought this 2012 mako pro skiff 16 for fishing intercoastal waterways. The boat appeared to be well taken care of and used exclusively in fresh water until I purchased it. Everything seemed to be in good working order, but I neglected to take a look at steering while giving a thorough look at everything else. Now its my problem and i need to find a solution.

To attempt to remedy the stiff steering, I have disconnected the steering cable from the drag link and the steering wheel can be turned easily with 1 finger, so thats not the problem. The stiffness without question is in the swivel bracket/pivot tube. I first attempted to grease the swivel bracket zerk fitting (1) and had a fair amount of different types of grease flowing from the top of the swivel bracket tube, nothing on the bottom. after a full tube of grease, a consistent color of the new grease was coming from the top, non on the bottom, steering still stiff. I attempted to heat the swivel tube to break up any old grease that may be packed between the bushings and pivot tube and swivel bracket, that didn't have much effect either. I bought a zerk rejuvinator tool and pushed a bunch of penetrating oil in until it started to flow from the top of the swivel bracket, still not much difference.

So after 2 weeks of fiddling with this thing, a good 20 hours easy, i'd say the steering is a little better, but when you let it sit overnight it is initially stiff then starts to loosen again but still requiring a lot of effort to turn.

Long story short, I have decided to tear apart the swivel tube, clean everything and replace the bushings. Ive watched a bunch of videos and looked at countless parts breakdowns and have a decent idea of what all is involved. However, I am not sure how to remove the shift tube from the swivel bracket. To me it looks like the power head has to be removed in order to remove the shift tube vertically up. I don't want to do anything too invasive and seeking advise before I rip it apart. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SailorHank]

Following. Same problem with a 2013 60hp

 

[flyingscott]

Is there a friction adjustment on the tube?

 

[damorgan]

Following. Same problem with a 2013 60hp

I have already tore down the unit to the major components. There is no way to remove the shift shaft without removing the power head from the adapter plate. There just isn't any clearance between the shift shaft and the block of the power head. I did separate the adapter plate from the mid section, but that was unnecessary. I made my own make shift mezzanine to lift the power head strait up after all the rigging and couple of electrical connections were disconnected. Not at all a difficult process to get it all torn apart. Waiting on gaskets and a couple other piece parts to come in the mail before it all goes back together. Will advise on how it turns out.

Note, I did have to beat the crap out of the swivel tube to get it separated from the lower pivot bushing. The fit was tight tight tight. i could see where the friction of the shaft to bushing was occurring but there wasn't any obvious contaminants or debris in there. Very little corrosion as well. Im hoping with a new bushing and cleaning everything thoroughly it will turn like butter in the end.

 

[damorgan]

Is there a friction adjustment on the tube?

No friction adjust. no pucks, no lever. Looks like the bushing is faulty. will advise when i get it assembled with new bushings.

 

[damorgan]

I almost forgot...The upper swivel bracket mount nuts can only be removed if the power head is removed. no other way around it. power head has to come off to disassemble the swivel bracket

 

[flyingscott]

To bad you tore it down you could have maybe freed it up by pumping it full of tranny fluid.

 

[damorgan]

To bad you tore it down you could have maybe freed it up by pumping it full of tranny fluid.

yea, i had seen this being done on youtube and thought about that or diesel. unfortunately, after half a can of pb blaster with very little difference in the effort to turn the swivel, i called it. I didn't video the effort it took to turn but it was significant. I had to chock both wheels of the trailer to move the linkage or i'd move the trailer side to side. if the replacement bushing doesn't do the trick, i'll have to replace the swivel shaft, although there isn't any obvious damage on it. i removed what was left of the powder coating from the shaft where the bushing will ride. thinking the few thou of finish would allow more tolerance between the joint. I'm not too worried about corrosion since i will be greasing this after every outing and replacing the lower swivel seal as well.

 

[damorgan]

Bushings and seals for swivel bracket assembly replaced. Steers like a new car. Problem solved. Will post some pictures of the inner part of the lower bushing soon. Still have adapter plate and power head to reassemble. Parts are taking quite a while to come in.