Mercury 6.2 loose steering

gapple12

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Not sure if this is where I post this but I’m trying to figure out the play in my steering wheel. I can move it side to side about 3-4 inches before the outdrive moves. At the engine, there is a long steering box the cable enters into and it seems to be moving in and out of it some before the drive moves. The whole box seems to move some as well. Everything bolt I’ve checked is tight. Is this steering box bad or the cable possibly ? See video.....

https://youtu.be/hV9pqVml23o
 

gapple12

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2006 Chaparral 246 loose steering

duplicate post.....
 
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gapple12

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2006 Chaparral 246 loose steering

I keep trying to ad this question to the steering section and it pops up on this thread. Weird
 
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GA_Boater

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Stop posting the same issue! Once was enough!

Your threads have been merged.
 

gapple12

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Stop posting the same issue! Once was enough!

Your threads have been merged.

sorry, I thought I deleted this one and I tried to put it in the steering thread. Then I would see it pop back up. My mistake
 

GA_Boater

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At this point we don't know if it's steering or some faulty part of the Mercruiser sterndrive. Some folks will be along with questions or advice.
 

Railroader12

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Im still learning myself but I just went through this same issue...or so I thought it was an issue, last week. That "box" or ram at the engine side of the steering cable it threads into is supposed to move in and out like that. Its what moves the shaft into position for the fluid to move through the seperate passages from left to right to assist your steering. Might want to check the cable mount behind the wheel (looks like a long slim rectangular box), mine had all 4 bolts slightly loose so it contributed to the extra play, but even having just gone through and replaced a BUNCH of stuff in my boat to alleviate this, I finally realized it is completely normal for this design to have play, and without it you will have NO assisted steering.

Also double check after messing with your steering that the shaft at the engine side past where your cable threads into has the flats vertical. The passages need to be oriented this was for the steering fluid to flow correctly.
 

Railroader12

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Just to add....my problem turned out to be a worn out steering cable. My steering was tight which made the slop much more obvious and made me think it was definitely something else. After replacing the cable my boat steering is easier than my car steering, even my wife cant hardly feel any slop or play whatsoever now that its smooth. I bought the cable off amazon for around 130 bucks. So far its been the cheapest, easiest and most rewarding "fix" yet for what I assumed would be a small fortune (new pump, lines, ram...etc.)

The cable is a seastar solutions SS1341XX (substitute the XX for the length you need to replace in feet, it will be on the cable in white)
 

harringtondav

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Some assumptions here. I understand my Alpha Gen II's transom mounted steering valve well, and I checked a random Bravo I steering system. (I assume that's your O/D). Same steering cyl./valve. The movement shown in your movie of the steering cable nut seems excessive, as in not zero. The steering cyl/valve is hard lock washer nutted onto the transom plate, and yours appears to be dangerously loose. I'd tear into that steering box(?) and verify the steering cyl/valve is secure.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... That little bit of movement in yer vid, goes away when ya start the motor,.....
That's the travel necessary for the hyd. shuttle valve,....

What drive ya got,..??

Look again, for movement at the helm, at the drive's tiller arm connection, 'n where the pin goes through the gimbel ring,....
 

gapple12

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Ayuh,...... That little bit of movement in yer vid, goes away when ya start the motor,.....
That's the travel necessary for the hyd. shuttle valve,....

What drive ya got,..??

Look again, for movement at the helm, at the drive's tiller arm connection, 'n where the pin goes through the gimbel ring,....

Its a Bravo III Drive. Its hard to tell from the video, but the pin that goes into the arm to steer the out-drive has a little movement as well.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Bravos are known for the clampin' bolts at the top of gimbel ring gettin' loose, causin' wear to the gimbel ring,.....
 

gapple12

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So is this set up a Hydraulic steering ? This pic looks just like my part, but the red circled pins have play in them when moving the wheel. Seems to create the loose steering as well.

Also, Im assuming the cable would be the same replacement if its Hydraulic or not ?
 

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Bondo

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Nope, not hyd. steerin, but Power Steerin', that uses hyd. pressure, just like a car,.....

If those pins are worn, yes, replace 'em,.....

But that's not yer 3" or 4" of slop,.....
 

scoflaw

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Like said, things tighten up with motor running. Have an assistant move the wheel back n forth in the freeplay area while you look thing over. It's been my experience that all the I/O boats I have owned have some slop, like about 30* worth.
 

gapple12

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Anyone know of a place to purchase the 2 pins for the Steering Cylinder ?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... At 'bout any quality hardware store,.....
 

harringtondav

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So is this set up a Hydraulic steering ? This pic looks just like my part, but the red circled pins have play in them when moving the wheel. Seems to create the loose steering as well.

Also, Im assuming the cable would be the same replacement if its Hydraulic or not ?

This is the 'Later Model' steering cyl/valve I mentioned. Those two pins should be sliding fit w/o much play. You can remove them and check for wear in the pins and in the cast holes. Also that large hole by the hyd. hose connectors is the 'Jesus bolt' connection to the transom plate. It is a shoulder bolt that should be torqued to 25 ft lb, and the lock tabs bent to secure the hex. This is a very critical joint. If it comes loose, you will loose any steering control on the outdrive. Very nasty at full power. This assy. should pivot easily on the transom support (with the tiller arm pin removed), should have very little free play. So these three pivot points should have minimal slop, or your steering wheel will have excess play.

Your steering cable is a mechanical push pull cable, and shuttles the internal spool by the effort difference between the cable's core and sheath. Not your complaint, but I went from strong arm steering wheel effort to pinky finger steering effort by replacing this cable.

Go back to Bondo 's reply #12. Those bolts are a pair on each side of the top of the gimbal ring. You'll have to turn hard each way to get a back up wrench on the lock nuts. 50 ft lb torque.

BTW, I love those quick disconnect hyd. couplers. These eliminate a lot of mess and pump bleeding. I'm going to install these if I ever have to disconnect the hoses again.
 
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