milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

[KMDisland]

Just purchased a 1999 four winns with a Volvo Penta 3.0 Liter. The previous owner said last year at the end of the season the impeller blew and the engine over heated.
He had a new impeller installed and used the boat probably 2 more times before he had it winterized. I noticed the oil didn?t look right when I checked the dipstick but didn?t realize how milky it looked until I changed the oil. I assumed when he said it has not been changed in 2 years it was just a little condensation. I pulled out about 4.5 quarts of oil (threaded suction pump on dipstick threads, plus the oil filter was full), the engine calls for 4 qts. The owner said he has not changed the oil in 2 years because he only used the boat twice the prior year. I am assuming this water got into the engine at the end of last year when he over heated the engine.

Before I changed the oil I pulled all plugs out (they were all dry) after boat running off hose. I did a compression test and compression was 152 +/- 3 PSIG on the first 3 cylinders, and 145 on the last cylinder. I ran the boat full rpm for about 5 minutes then idled around for a while and the water temp looked good. Oil pressure if I recall was about 40 psi at idle, up to 60 psi at full throttle.

I am assuming when the engine over heated at the end of last season something cracked or the head gasket blew (I am hoping its just a blown gasket). I wanted some opinions on what steps I should do on diagnosing this issue. I am pretty handy and do most of my own repairs (have changed out motors on boats in the past but have never pressure tested a block/ head.

I was going to remove exhaust and intake manifold, remove head and examine head gasket to see if a passage is open between the oil/water passage.

Next I was going to inspect all mating surfaces for any visual cracks. I have a feeling it?s a small crack so don?t know what luck I will have seeing a crack. If I still didn?t see any signs I was going to have the head pressure tested/ magna fluxed.

Before I pull it apart is there any type of test I can do with compressed air to diagnose my problem? It?s a raw water cooled engine. Also how can I pressure test the block? I read something about applying pressure in a cylinder and listening for leaks but I passed a compression test, don?t know how this will help.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Bondo]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

Before I pull it apart is there any type of test I can do with compressed air to diagnose my problem?

Ayuh,... Plug off, 'n isolate the block's cooling passages any way ya can, 'n supply 'bout 15 psi of air...
You should Hear it leakin', then follow the sound...

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

Volvo makes a few models.What model do you have?GLM?GLP?GLS???Most places change the oil for winterization.After you ran it again was it still milky?
Your's have an oil cooler?Possibly it didn't get winterized right,froze and cracked.
Before you tear it apart look for the simple things first.Poor cover over the motor.Oil cooler leaking.J

 

[Ned L]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

Overheated, .... warped head?? It can be machined flat again if it is not to bad. - Do as already suggested.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

I assumed when he said it has not been changed in 2 years it was just a little condensation.

That's not very likely in an engine (and also not very likely in gas tanks either according to this guy)

Your water in the oil came from someplace......With the compression numbers you have it's less likely that it came from a riser gasket or cracked riser/manifold (but it's possible)

Your best bet is to pressure check the block/head before you look further. (this doesn't check the manifold/riser though)

Overheated, .... warped head?? It can be machined flat again if it is not to bad.

A last resort check at best. heads rarely crack on raw water engines and head gaskets rarely "blow".....(I said rarely, not never)


3.0l engines usually do not have oil coolers(unless someone added one), and rarely have power steering for that matter......

At the this time of year, the NUMBER 1 cause of "water-in-the-oil" is cracked block/head/manifold due to freeze damage.(period)

That's where you need to look first.


Regards,


Rick

 

[KMDisland]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

Not sure which model will have to look tonight. Its a 1999 boat/engine. I never ran it again, I just discovered this last night. Here are the steps i did:

1. Started the boat up off the garden hose
2. pulled all plugs, inspected the plugs and ran a compression test (all plugs dry, compression good)
3. Checked the oil (it looked bad but just assumed it has not been changed in 2 years, was never used that is why is was not blacker, figured had a little condensation in it, etc...). This did bother me alot, I am a nut about maintenance. I was going to drive the boat home on the water but when I discovered this jusrt ran it for quick sea trial.
4. Put the boat in the water for a quick test drive (checked to make sure it didnt overheat, checked oil pressure, etc....)
5. Got the boat home wanted to change al fluids asap and noticed the milky oil. I have not started the boat up yet since I noticed the oil. To be honest when I saw the milky oil I figured I would have to run some oil through it a few times to get all the nasty oil out, so I didnt put the oil back in it last night wanted to buy some cheap wallmart oil since I will be putting it in running for 15-20 min and changing again.

I agree I change the oil when I winterize my boats I am just going by what he told me. I dont think the guy would lie to me, he was honest and told me about the overheat problem, and not too many people are going to admitt its been 2 years since an oil change. The guy didnt even know where the dip stick was. He said he never used the boat thats why he didnt change it. (bad answer)

Maybee since I dont know the history and it could be possible that the boat filled with rain water that I should run it for a while with new oil and monitor. If I start seeing the oil level increase and the oil getting milky then I need to start investigating further.

If I still have an issue and need to pressure test, what is the best method to block everything? The water enters at the raw water impeller discharge, and leaves out the exhaust manifold. do you think this will work:

1. Drain all water out of block/hoses.
2. Remome T stat/reiinstall T stat housing
3. I have an impeller pump that runs off the engine. Pull discharge side off impeller pump off, install a fitting on the discharge hose for my air compressor on the hose that goes to the cooling system.
4. Not sure but I think the exhaust hose is 3". Get a PVC cap (what ever size will fit into the hose that comes off the exhaust manifold). Clamp a short piece of hose to the exhaust manifold, clamp the other end of the hose to the cap.

My cooling system should now be pressurized (correct). I should be able to apply pressure (10-15 psi) and listen for my cracked block ((((, or where ever the crack is. I have a feeling since it ran so good and I have dry plugs its not at the manifold...

thanks again for the comments

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

You'll need to disconnect the cooling water hoses that go to the manifold.(isolate it)

You do not have to remove the t-stat.

All you're doing is removing the hose FROM the raw pump, adding a gage, and valve (so you can close it off after you pressurize) then you can connect some "Home Depot" plumbing fittings that will allow you to connect an air compressor.

You'll need to also block the water discharge FROM the t-stat housing that supplies cooling water to the exhaust system.

The exhaust system is not "blockable" at it's discharge. (which mixes discharge water with exhaust before it goes overboard.) that's why you isolate it too.....

You'll be pressurizing the block, head, (circulating)water pump and t-stat.

pump it up, close the valve, and shut off the compressor. Then listen. you can listen at the carb and exhaust (head leaks) and you can listen at the oil fill (internal block leaks)

and listen to the outside of the block...(or squirt some soapy water on the outside of the block.....look for bubbles!!)

 

[KMDisland]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

From suggestions on this forum I drained water out of block, and plugged the lines going to the exhaust manifold/elbow and un-did the line from the impeller pump discharge going to T stat housing and installed an air compressor fitting here. I pressurized the system to 10 psi first and listened for air sound/hissing from inside the carb, dip stick hole, valve cover, sides of engine, etc?.. Next I increased pressure to about 15-18 psi and still heard nothing. My garage was dead silent so I would hear any bit of air noise. I marked the gauge and waited 30 minutes and the pressure never moved. I still have pressure on the engine and will re-check gauge in a few hours.

This tells me that the block is not cracked, the head gasket is not blown (passage ways between oil/cooling water, and that I have a good tight water system.

I just bought the boat and do not know the history. Two nights ago it rained (pretty hard) and I left the plug in while the boat was on the trailer, I pulled the plug and water drained out for a good 10 minutes. I wonder if the previous owner did the same thing and water rose up to a level where it went into the dip stick hole or something.

Does anybody else have any suggestions on how/what caused water to get in the oil? Am I missing any checks?

I was thinking of putting fresh oil in and flushing it through a few times and just monitor it to see if it is getting water in it.

Another question, should I flush the engine with kerosene/diesel fuel first or just change the oil a few times after running for a half hour? Just trying to figure the best way to get all the milk shake out.

Thanks again for any help/suggestions.

 

[Bondo]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

I was thinking of putting fresh oil in and flushing it through a few times and just monitor it to see if it is getting water in it.

Another question, should I flush the engine with kerosene/diesel fuel first or just change the oil a few times after running for a half hour? Just trying to figure the best way to get all the milk shake out.

Ayuh,... Just change it, 'n Run it...

If there's a Real problem, it'll show up quick enough...

No reason to risk the bearings using diesel to flush it...
So long as you get most of the water out, the little bit left will steam off when run under load...

 

[KMDisland]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

I found the problem. I pulled the exhaust manifold off and it had water on the exhaust side.

A question I have is I pulled the riser elbow off and it has a steel plate just letting water exit through on hole. Is this normal? Does it matter which hole yo leave open?

thanks

 

[fcawth]

Re: milkshake oil chevy 3.0 liter

That's the restrictor plate. There is a note in the service manual to disregard the writing on the plate (it says top front or something) and put the opening toward the engine (you should confirm this, but I think that's the correct side). It is supposed to be there.

I don't think the 1999 has a "flapper" in the exhaust (my 2001 does not). If you kill the engine while on plane I guess it could swallow some water as the wake comes up to the stern.
I think normally exhaust from a running engine keeps water from coming up and over the riser. I usually try to be careful slowing down just in case.

BTW, you should look for impeller bits everywhere you can if the original impeller came apart causing the overheat. Also the raw water pump in mine would loose a bit of impeller every year, but when I replaced the raw water pump with the newer design, so far the impeller remains intact - so I think there is a flaw in some of the 2001-era water pumps. When I bought my 2001, there were impeller bits from more than just the one impeller all throughout the cooling system, probably one bit for every year.. It's at least worth looking in the hose going to the tstat housing from the raw water pump, and in the bypass hole you see when removing the socket-head screw on top of the tstat housing.

FC