Milky lower unit oil

henryban

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
22
I got to thank those that brought my attention to the possibility of bad washers on lower unit drain plugs. I took the advise and cobbled up a pressure tester with a bicycle pump and a bicycle pump dial gage (0 to 60 psi), and a few plastic fittings. Took some time to get the leaks closed at the fittings (soapy water) but when I got it tight it showed up in great detail that my plug washers were leaking. I replaced them and the pressure (10 psi) held for over an hour and a half with zero decay. Saved myself a bundle. I will never again reuse those washers (about fifty cents each). Thank you, thank you, thank you guys.<br />I got a '98 130 Johnson, carbed.
 

james roach

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 17, 2002
Messages
216
Re: Milky lower unit oil

So the soapy water does not hurt anything in the LU. What kind of soap did you use? Does it matter.
 

dhall

Recruit
Joined
Jan 14, 2004
Messages
1
Re: Milky lower unit oil

Hello HenryB,<br />I would be intrested to know how you made the pressure tester and did you do a vacuum tester as well? Any info is appreciated.<br />Thanks, dhall
 

Hooty

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 2, 2001
Messages
4,496
Re: Milky lower unit oil

Hey James,<br />He didn't put the soapy water in the l/u, he just smeared it around the outsidwe looking for leaks (bubbles).<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty
 

henryban

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
22
Re: Milky lower unit oil

Used fifty fifty solution of dish detergent and water. Only the prop shaft seal is visible with the lower unit in place, and the prop removed. I had zero bubbles when I tested mine. The soap will not harm the seals.<br /><br />I used the working end of a lower unit lube hand pump that I had available but can be bought at any marine supply shop or Walmart, about ten bucks. It screws into either the top or bottom hole of the lower unit and works perfect. I think any bicycle pump will work. I think they all have a good check valve in them that will not leak. Bought the 0 to 60 psi dial tire pressure gage at Walmart, about four bucks. The part of the dial gage that goes over the tire filler stem unscrews and a standard fitting will screw on in its place. I used a brass tee fitting, some tubing, some small pipe clamps, and some plumbers tape on the threads, about five bucks. I used the end of a cheap small paint brush to plug the end of the hand pump fitting when testing the test rig joints being careful not to break it off. No need to jamb it much. It works perfect as a plug. Pump the rig up to twenty or so pounds and squirt the soap solution all over the joints. Keep working on them until they are all air tight, no bubbles at all. Properly assembled this test rig should hold at whatever pressure it is set at for hours. <br /><br />No vac test. Did not know how to go about that one.
 
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