Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

[fishingcowboy]

No, this isn't another question about how to wire a 12/24 system. I used the search function to confirm my thoughts on that one (Thanks Silvertip for the help on that).

My issue is that I need to replace the toggle switch that allows you to switch between 12 and 24 volts. Mine is shot and right now I have my motor hard wired (bypassed the switch) to run on 12 V. I can't seem to find a replacement switch, but there are plenty of toggle switches avaliable. The original had part number AR152-01B and was a 30A 24V. Can I find any toggle that can meet these specifications, or does it have to be an OEM part?

The motor is an older Motor Guide Brute 750 on an '85 Ebbtide Dynatrak if any of that matters.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

Toggle switches are toggle switches and only the ratings and physical mounting will make a difference. Take the old switch to Radio Shack and check their components drawers. They have all sorts of these switches. How many terminals does the switch have. It will very likely have six.

 

[fishingcowboy]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

Isn't there electricity running through this switch? If there is, don't I need to make sure that the toggle can handle the amperage and voltage?

There is a red wire and a red/white wire going into the swith (to allow for 12 or 24 voltage) and then one wire coming out that goes directly to the power on/off switch under the pedal. I was concerned that a a standard toggle would simply switch from one battery to the other instead of selecting either one batter or two (12 or 24 volts). Am I mistaken in my understanding of how this system works?

The switch itself is completely shattered so I can't tell exactly how it is supposed to work, but I'm assuming it has 3 positions. A 12 Volt, a 24 Volt and then an off position.

 

[fishingcowboy]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

Oh, and I guess I need to correct my terminology a little. This is actually a rocker switch, not a toggle. Not sure if that makes too much of a difference other than part number and appearance, but figured I'd mention that.

Also, just for clarification, this switch is located on the foot controls, directly below the speed selection wheel.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

That's why I specifically indicated that "ratings" and "physical mounting" are the differences. Ratings are the electrical ratings -- so yes, you obviously need to verify that. There is a difference between a rocker and a toggle switch only in how it functions. Internally, a switch is still a switch. Turns out Radio Shack also has a fair selection of rocker switches. Again, you need to match the number of terminals on the switch -- not the number of wires. If you can't find a suitable rocker switch, fashion a plate to replace the switch and drill a hole in it for a toggle switch. But before you go to the trouble, why not contact Motor Guide for an exact replacement.

 

[fishingcowboy]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

Again, you need to match the number of terminals on the switch -- not the number of wires.

I guess I dont understand what the terminals are then. I thought they were the protrusions coming out of the back of the switch where the wires connect. Time for some more research on electrical parts/terms.

I did contact Motor Guide and they don't have any of the parts in stock since it's an older model and the individual I talked to didn't know of any other switches that would work for that application.

We have a couple electrical specialty stores in town that I may just bring the pieces of the old switch to and see what they have that may work. I've tried Radio shack before for other parts with no help coming from the associates. I've also tried the couple boat shops we have in town, and they were not able to help me other than trying to sell me a new trolling motor. Since I obviously don't know much about electrical, I'll try the specialty shop and see if they can help.

Silvertip-Thanks for all the help. I see you on this board all the time and I have a feeling that without you around, a lot of us either wouldn't have working boats, or we'd be paying out the you know what for a shop to fix everything for us. If you're ever out in Nevada for any reason, I owe you a case of beer for all the help you've provided.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

The switch terminals are the terminals, lugs, connections, or whatever term you wish to apply to them. They are the points on the switch to which the wires connect. A six terminal switch may have only four wires connected to it (or any other number for that matter). Just because there are six terminals does not mean all of them must be used. A six terminal switch is like two individual switches in one package operated by a single lever or rocker. Some switching functions require that type of switch but all terminals may not be needed. Are you certain the switch is actually bad. You have not indicated how you came to that conclusion.

 

[fishingcowboy]

Re: Motor Guide 12/24 switch part number

You have not indicated how you came to that conclusion.

The trolling motor didn't work, so I broke out the mulitmeter and started testing the entire path of electricity. Tested both batteries, and they were good. Had 12.6V to both sides of where the tolling motor connected to the bow control panel, and on the hot wires going into the switch, but no power coming out. Upon closer inspection, I noted that the movement of the switch was extremely loose. As I slowly disassembled the pedal mount (with the motor disconnected mind you), there were pieces of broken plastic all over the place. As I got down to this switch, it was in pieces. To ensure that this was the issue, I took the three wires off and bypassed the switch with a straight connection between one of the "in" wires to the "out" wire. Not entirely certain this was the proper way to test this, but it seemed to work and didn't appear to damage anything. Plugged the connection back in and tested power at the on/off trigger switch under the pedal and it was 12.6V. Turned the motor to low speed and tapped the on/off trigger and sure enough, the trolling motor started working.

I think I understand the terminal thing a little better and my problem may be that this switch was so broken that I can't make heads or tails of anything. I called one of the specialty shops in town and explained what I was looking for. Luckily, one of them was a boater and he knew exactly what I needed, but it needs to be ordered. It should be in tomorrow, so I'll pick it up on my way home from work and try it out probably Saturday morning. I'll also talk to the guys there and make sure I know what the terminals are for future issues.

Thanks.