Motor Mount Holes

FuelishBehavior

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
139
I believe I've asked this before, when changing out engines, I've read you should remove the lag bolted mounts. I am doing this due to the fact that the adjustable mounts are completely rusted out anyways. When putting the mounts back on the stringer however, do you just use longer lag bolts or do you fill in the old holes with some kind of filler so there is some meat for the new lag bolts because I assume you'll need to put them back in the same location.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,535
IMO, if the holes are no solid then you should repair them prior to reinstall. Need to find out if the holes need to be drilled out, filled with epoxy or the stringer needs to be replaced. Need to have a look to determine
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
AllDodge is correct. IF, the present holes are rotted or even waddled out, I would drill them larger until you removed any and all rot to good solid clean material. Then I would fill them in with either two part Epoxy or Polyester resins mixed with 1/4" chopped fiberglass, depending on your hull, and redrill them out again. That does two things. First it gives you a totally solid hole to support the engine. And second, it seals the rest of the transom against further water intrusion. JMHO
 

bman440440

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
266
when I did my engine rebuild I was worried about that too being it was a 19 year old boat... but to my happy surprise the holes where as tight as a 40 year old virgin... I ended up having to use a 4' breaker bar to get them suckers out and back in for the install... it looked like maxum may have filled them with a resin before they installed.... so be prepared for some work getting them out just in case your in the same boat.... no pun intended.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,343
A few ways to make repairs. Remove the engine , test the area with a long thin screwdriver probe. define the damaged/rotted area and:

cut the top of the stringer up to the good wood, remove the rotted wood/peat moss , glass in new wood and reglass stringer cap

Remove the engine , drill a 2 inch hole to the hull depth/stringer depth,glass in a wood dowel, predrill mounting holes, fill with resin ans redrill

Remove engine, cut off the stringer caps, remove stringers, fab up new wood and glass in place, recap the stringers, predrill and fill with resin, redrill mounting holes
 

bbook83

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2004
Messages
178
My boat was at 42 years when I pulled the engine and replaced the rotted stringer at the engine mount. Prior to that, I bought at least 20 years by inserting lag "shields" (like you would use in concrete) in the softening holes.
 
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