motor overheating

[krazylegs]

Well, here we go again. But before I begin I wanted to list what has been replaced in the past 3 years- with MINIMAL hours on each part, so they're still like brand new.

Belts, hoses, ignition (2), gages, alternator, starter, water pump, impeller, seats, fuel lines, fuel filter, thermostat (3), ignition coil, ignition relay, battery (3), out-drive seals, exhaust baffle, propeller (2),upper billows, lower billows (2), points, condenser, plug wires, distributor cap, spark plugs, vacuum lines, choke plate, doghouse (custom built),depth finder, wheels and tires, rails for trailer, battery wires, ski hook, first aide kit, life jackets,
emergency signals (flares), fire extinguishers (2), oil change (2) (even though the motor hardly ever ran) brass gas tank switch.

With all that being said, we took the boat out last Saturday for the first run of the season. And it overheated. When we were cruzing at low speed (no wake) the temp read 155-160 (I have a 160 degree thermostat). The within one minute of increasing speed and getting the boat up on plane the temp starts to climb up to 200 degrees- I backed off, but I know that it could still climb higher.

Idiots other information. I do have a cracked exaust manifold riser, could that cause the over heating problem- and yes, I'm already planning on replacing it ASAP; whether or not that is the overheating problem.

We have gone through this boat and slowly replaced every bit of rigged up crap, and replaced everything with brand new parts. Any suggestions would be welcomed and awesome. Thank you as always, Krazy

 

[Don S]

Re: motor overheating

What engine? Model or serial number needed. Year, what drive?

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

duh- sorry about that it's an AQ190 ford 302 V8 with a volvo penta 270 outdrive. model unknown- yr. 1978

 

[Don S]

Re: motor overheating

A common problem with those drives is the water hose connection corroding away inside the hose where it mounts onto the drive.
When at low speed, it sucks water in, but on plane that hose connection is out of the water and the pump sucks air and not water.

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

Don, I just don't know if that's it- only because, I just got through trying to find out how to set your trim, because the bow of my boat is still riding very high, so it could be possible that the hose is still in the water. However, I will check that. Thank you for the prompt response and if you can think of anything else that would be great. Krazy

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

Don, are you talking about the bushing that's in the outdrive behind the pivot point? I just got off the phone with a repair shop and he stated that it's probably a bushing if the impeller and the water pump. Is this the same thing you were hinting at? Thank you for any feedback you can provide. Krazy

 

[Don S]

Re: motor overheating

I told you what to look for first, all the bushings and orings are below the water connection that you now say your shop is telling you are bad. So basically, if that hose connection is below the water like you seem to (wrongly) think it is, then so are the bushings, and when they are under water are not your problem.

 

[Don S]

Re: motor overheating

Here is a picture that shows what happens to the hose connector when it corrodes under the hose and you can't see it.

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

Got it Don, I will check that when I get in tonight. Thank you for the help. I know you have to be gray and on meds with dealing with all the newbie questions. But, you have always given sound advise. Thank you. Krazy

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

I told you what to look for first, all the bushings and orings are below the water connection that you now say your shop is telling you are bad. So basically, if that hose connection is below the water like you seem to (wrongly) think it is, then so are the bushings, and when they are under water are not your problem.

Don, do you by chance have a picture of the orings and bushings as well. I tried to find it in my manual and didn't see them. Thanks

 

[Don S]

Re: motor overheating

Only one real "Oring", and that is on the lower unit where it meets up to the water tube/pivot tube through the intermediate housing.
The top gasket is the one between the hose connector and that water/pivot tube.

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

Guys (and ladies) I wanted to follow up with some additional information (just in case anyone is searching for assistance with this same issue) I took the boat out- a little rough starting (but that's a different post) and got it to run. Got past the bouys and started a silent prayer that it wouldn't start to over heat once it got up on plane- got it up on plane and.... The friggen thing ran awesome!! No more overheating the thru hull strainer worked like a champ. So, if anyone is even thinking about this method of repairing a warn out bushing in the outdrive that costs $$$$$ to replace. I would STRONGLY suggest this method of using a thru hull strainer. Thanks again for all of your assistance. Now, I will search some posts about carbs. Krazy

 

[captmello]

Re: motor overheating

Glad you got it fixed!

I would argue, that replacing the pivot bushing takes the same amount of work and money.

but again, I'd rather congratulate you, than argue with you. Keep the old ford runnin'!

 

[macrae]

Re: motor overheating

What is a through hull strainer? I am having a similar problem with overheating.

 

[krazylegs]

Re: motor overheating

A through hull strainer is a method of bypassing the usual water pick up- through the gills of the outdrive. The through hull strainer is mounted on the bottom of your boat somewhere in the area of your impeller. The impeller then sucks the water from the strainer instead of the typical way of getting water to the water pump. There are numerous articles on this method and some here in the forums. Here's a link to what the strainer looks like Groco Hi-Speed Strainer With Nut

Just do your research, and do the job the correct way, and also make sure that you have a shut off valve coming straight off of the strainer. Also consider mounting a T valve somehow so you can run it on dry ground (I'm working on that aspect right now, but thought that I would let you know about it during the modification) And most of all, get confirmation of what your problem is and the cost to repair it. For me, the bushing went out and it was going to cost me around $800 to replace. I bought everything for $100 and had my brother do the mods for me.