Mounting a Transducer too low?

[KenJr]

I replaced a Lowrance X75 with a Humminbird 767 and couldn't use the same transducer mount and didn't want to drill new holes (yet) to mount the new hardware a little higher on the transom.<br /><br />Thus, instead of my transducer being even with the hull (or hanging slightly below so that it's relatively even as the manuals advise) it's a good 1" below the hull. <br /><br />I know I won't be able to know for sure how this is going to perform, particularly at WOT until I get out on the lake for the first time with it - but is this configuration fatally flawed from the get go? <br /><br />My boats not that fast - 70HP Crestliner - maybe it goes 30 with the best conditions and the mount seems sturdy enough that it's not going to shift the transducer around and cause problems there. <br /><br />Thanks for the thoughts...

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Mounting a Transducer too low?

I think it will work fine. All you can do is try it....

 

[waterinthefuel]

Re: Mounting a Transducer too low?

Work, yea, be good, nah. I would drill holes. My poor transom looks like an add for silicon sealer. It doesn't leak a drop. It's solid fiberglass though, no wood. That makes a difference.

 

[jtexas]

Re: Mounting a Transducer too low?

I bet it'll read just fine at that depth. If too much water pressure kicks it up and you compensate by tightening in the bracket, it'll break when it hits an obstruction. But we won't know until you try it.

 

[b.gagnon]

Re: Mounting a Transducer too low?

It will probably work fine at low speed, but will most likely kick up quite a bit of water at high speed. This normally causes turbulence under the transducer and gives strange readings.

 

[KenJr]

Re: Mounting a Transducer too low?

Thanks for the responses...<br /><br />I decided to just drill some new holes (actually only needed one as I used one that was already there - there was a set but they were a little to far apart, so I used one and made another...).<br /><br />I figured that's the best bet and I don't want to be dealing with it on the lake...rather just do it right the first time.<br /><br />I found this stuff at home depot that works awesome for clogging up old holes that are in water. It's a tube and the material comes right out and feels like play-doh. It's green on the outside and white on the inside (two different materials) and you cut a chunk off and mix it together with your fingers and it starts to turn into cement in about 20 minutes and dries hard in a couple hours. From that point - you can sand it, drill it, whatever - but it's not going to leak water. I figured this stuff was better than just sticking a screw back in with gobs of silicon sealant all over it - and it looks nicer.<br /><br />For what it's worth - I used this same stuff when I refinished my Rude 70HP outboard engine cover to fill a couple holes from an old 70HP decal thing that I tore off and didn't feel like replacing. I used that to fill the holes and sanded it down. After a couple coats of primer, paint and clear coat you can't even tell there were holes there. Very cool stuff - can't remember the name of it since I took the papers out of the tube but it's in the same spot with the sealer's, epoxies, super glue's, etc...<br /><br />Thanks again...