Need help with gas/oil in Cowl on 1989 30HP

[biglurr54]

I have a 1989 Evinrude 30HP outboard. I purchased the motor just recently to put on a small pontoon boat. The guy I bought the motor from said that he had a difficult time starting it but once it started it would run great. I looked to carb over and noticed that the electronic choke solenoid was squirting gas into the cowl. It appeared that the two hoses that attach at the bottom ad broken free and took the nipples with them. I got a good deal on the motor. I purchased a new faceplate for the choke solenoid that had the little hose barbs on it. The parts catalog shows one barb has a little plug on it for my motor. I purchased the plug as well. I installed everything as shown on the catalog. The old hose still had the broken off barb in it.

I put it all together and the motor still struggled to start but I could get it to start. The whole cowl was covered in oil and gas. I cleaned everything up with Purple power. I took the boat out for a ride and it struggled to get started. I had to take the cowl off and cover the carb throat with my hand to manually choke it. Once it was running it ran well. It has some stumbles and skips but I believe it needs new wires and plugs. After the boat ride, I noticed gas and oil in the water. I pulled the cowl and noticed that there was gas all over inside the lower cowl. The gas/oil was running down the cowl, out on the motor leg and into the water.

I believe I still have an issue with the choke solenoid. Im not sure what the issue is though, or where the gas is coming from. I do know that my symptoms are: No fuel on cold starts, and plenty of fuel in cowl after running.

Any ideas where / what to check for?

 

[jakedaawg]

K, get the broken nipple out of the hose.

Pump bulb till firm, keep pumping gently, where do you see the leak? Fix leak.

 

[biglurr54]

The broken nipple was removed from the hose and the hose was replaced on a new nipple attached to the choke solenoid. No visible leaks were found while running the motor or when the bulb was pumped.

 

[jakedaawg]

Pump bulb till firm, keep squeezing gently, does the bulb continue to depress?

 

[biglurr54]

ill check when i get home but if it was it was depressing very slightly.

 

[biglurr54]

I pumped the bulb hard with the motor off. The bulb stayed hard. When the motor is running, the bulb slowly gets soft.

When the engine is running and you push the key in the engine doesn't change. My 1989 120hp dies immediately when you push the key in.

I pulled a hose that comes off the carb to the solenoid. It spit a little gas but then nothing came out of it. I pressed the key in and it spit gas out until I let up on the key. Then I reconnected everything and disconnected the hose from the primer solenoid. I blew into that end? I couldn't blow air threw.


Could the little port on the carb be plugged? I don't think that explains the gas in the cowl but it explains the hard to start cold symptom.

Of course it was pouring rain when I was at the boat so looking for leaks was tough.

 

[Newyota]

My 85' has the manual primer and it seemed hard to pump and this caused gas to slowly seep out around the small tie straps on hose/tee connections under the extra pressure and the motor was hard starting cold.Found the port on the carb. was clogged.Very tiny hole.This happened twice to me in a short period of time.Cleaned things out and installed a filter.So far so good.

 

[biglurr54]

How do i clean out the solenoid primer port on the carb? There is a extremely small brass nipple that i cant blow air through. I also cant blow air in the other end of the tee which looks like it goes into the crank case? Would regular carb cleaner do the trick? Would Seafoam Deep Creep be the ticket? Should i use a small pick to dig around in the port?

I think the port for the primer solenoid is plugged at the crank case and carb end. When I try to choke it, it pressurizes the hoses and the gas leaks out. I used ethanol free gas but i dont know what the previous owner used.

 

[Chinewalker]

Remove the carb and try some compressed air back through the nip. If that doesn't work, a strand of wire might be needed to free up whatever gunk is in there.

Also, if it hasn't been done, you may need a carb cleaning and rebuild. What color is the gasket at the seam between the carb bowl and carb body? If it's black, it's original. The original gaskets are prone to breaking down due to ethanol in the gas, or simply age. The newer gaskets are either a light brown or greenish color and are less prone to deterioration due to fuels.

 

[biglurr54]

I assume I have all the old gaskets. Im not a fan of tearing apart carbs unless I have an issue and need too. My 89 120 looper is all original and runs like a top. I just make sure I run ethanol free or treat the ethanol. All my motors get a clean screen filter before going into the cowl and then a disposable white filter right before the fuel pump. I would like to repair the carb with out taking it apart too much. The motor runs great once it warms up. I would hate to have something happen where it doesnt run well anymore.

I will blow the carb out with compressed air and see if i can clean out the port on the carb. The hose coming out of the primer solenoid tees off and one goes to the carb and the other goes to what looks like the crank case after the carb. Both ports appear clogged. How do I unclog the second port? Does it lead to the crank?

 

[racerone]

Those carburetors are elegantly simple.---Hard / impossible to make a mistake on them.

 

[jakedaawg]

The float can go in upside down on those but other than that ....