New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Just got my new Evinrude today, to go on the 14' flat-back canoe.<br />It's a 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5 twin cylinder, with F-N-R, and remote tank.<br />Model 5302.<br />It's the older configuration that has the recoil assy on top of the powerhead, not off to the side, as in the 70's motors I've seen. Looks more like the late 50's motors in that regard, at least to my untrained eye.<br /><br />Normal OMC fuel fitting fits fine, and so am getting a tank together for it. I already broke the new 3-gal Tempo tank tonite, just screwing in the brass barb....cheap fitting! (Tempo-rary) Take it back tomorrow, and hope for the best.<br /><br />What fuel / oil mixture do I use with this old horse? 50-1, or 24-1?<br />Should I add Lead Additive to the fuel?<br /><br />I swear this thing is so clean, it never may have ever been run. There's not a speck of dirt or grime anywhere on it, the fuel lines all look mint, as do the clamps, powerhead, spark plugs, and even the prop. Fuel bowl spotless, and none of the bolts have ever been turned. Some small scratches on the outside from handling, and that's it.<br /><br />I have not started it yet, but pulled the plugs and turned it over slowly to look for spark. Bottom cylinder shoots good spark, but I cannot say the same for the top cylinder.... I didn't see spark, but felt it when it was time for the top to fire.<br />I may be back on here tomorrow looking for a cure, but tonite she looks pretty. Hope she runs as good as it looks! I'm going to check the lower unit for gear oil before I try and start her.<br /><br />Here's a link to the auction I bought it from, with pix. This might be more motor than I need for a 14' canoe, but I figured it would be more versatile than a 3 hp. Perhaps Bombardier would want it for their Evinrude museum? I'd trade it for a new motor, if that's the case.<br /><br /> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...71509 <br /><br />Thanks in advance
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

Evening, Searobin. Congratulations on your purchase.<br /><br />1963 was the second last year for that engine, '56 was it's first. So you're right; it's a 50's design. <br />The original fuel-oil mix was 24:1. It would be wise to stick with it for that engine, since it employs plain, phosphor bronze bearings in some places internally. These bearings require a lot of oil to work without wearing.<br />You should use 87 octane fuel and TCW-3 rated outboard oil in your engine. Do not add a lead additive - the engine needs neither a high octane gas, nor the lubricating properties attributed to lead. Lead was in fact always detrimental to two-stroke engines.<br />The sparks should be able to jump a 7/16" gap. If the top one does not - not to worry. Nothing in the ignition system is very inexpensive - in fact you can buy all new parts for around $60. The most common problem with spark is traced to a cracked ignition coil. Since that ignition coil was used for over 30 years, it is cheap and available. To inspect the coils, you must pull the flywheel. To do that, you must use a puller which acts upon the three bolt holes in the flywheel (1/4"-20 thread). A 'harmonic balancer puller', available at any auto tool store, is a cheap and effective puller.<br />The top cylinder's ignition system is completly independant of the bottom's. So it is common to have a failure on one but not the other.<br />Before wrenching your engine, obtain a manual. Iboats sells aftermarket ones which are aimed at the do-it-yourselfer. I personally prefer the Seloc one. You may also borrow one from your local library.<br />Technically superior, OEM ones are aimed at the experienced wrench. You can buy reprints here:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br />Check ebay too. It's usually cheaper if your manual is up there.<br /><br />Well, I hope this gets you started. You'll find a few people on this board who are fans of older Johnny/Rudes. (PS - Johnsons and Evinrudes from the same years during the '50s-'80s are identical except for trim)
 

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

Thanks for the timely info, Paul. <br /><br />I'm getting a manual, and will visit my NAPA store for coils, water pump kit, and plugs.<br /><br />I'll switch the plugs around, and have a good look-see to tell if I have weak spark on the top cylinder.<br /><br />C-Ya!
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

The plugs should be Champion J6C (was J6J, they're now unavailable) gapped at .030". <br />Examine your coils before going replacing them. If there's a problem with them, it will be visable to the eye. No sense replacing good parts.<br />Good call on the waterpump kit.<br />Good luck!
 

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

NAPA gave me Champion #871, couldn't find anything about J- series plugs. Wasn't in there.<br /><br />Also ordered points and condenser, while I was there.<br /><br />I'm going to tinker to make sure it's the coils before I go taking the flywheel off.<br /><br />I do have a NAPA puller from some previous project, and will remove recoil assy & flywheel if it's necessary<br /><br />Also got my money back for the poorly-designed 3-gal tank, and moved up to the 6, which has a more stout mounting for the fuel fitting.<br />The 3-gallon tank has a pooly designed vent, and also came with a new-style gauge.....I don't even like gauges, and on a 3-gallon, I think it's rediculous.
 

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

Duh!<br /><br />The Champion plug boxes say #871, but the plug itself says R J 8 C.<br /><br /> Do you think this is close enough?
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

No, I'm afraid it won't work. Although the reach (J - 3/8") and ground electrode (C) are correct, the RJ8C's are too hot, and the R (Resistor) have been known to cause mid-throttle misfires on these old magneto type ignition systems.<br />I'm afraid I'm not much use for helping you find those plugs. Any Johnson dealer should have them though. Up here there's a large local retailer that sells them, and I always go there.<br />Does anyone know if Walmart carries them down there?<br /><br />PS #871 is champion's stock number for that plug. For the J6C, the stock number is #823.
 

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

Thanks, all.<br /> I'll see if that Champion stock number helps, ortherwise, I'll buy a couple off that guy from eBay.<br />I might not have been grounding the plugs correctly in my testing. There's so little paint wear that one plug was getting better contact with bare metal than the other. Once I grounded the plugs better, it seemed to throw a better spark on both. The original plugs are back in it, (Champion J4J)and the gas is ready. Perhaps it will start in the morning.<br /><br />I do like to have spare parts on hand, especially for an older unit like this one.
 

Searobin

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
7
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

She runs, but sure took a few pulls before it lit. I primed the cylinders with WD-40. I'm getting good spark, I didn't have the plugs grounded very well in my earlier tests.<br /><br />Plugs in it are Champion J4J, and one has a little blue overspray from original assy. 40 years ago. I'm thinking these are the originals.<br /><br />It popped with throttle in "start" and choke pulled...I then pushed in the choke, and it fired up. Ran smoothly, but I did need to choke it some. It warmed up enough to open the thermostat, cause soon I saw water coming out the exhaust right about waterline. Engine lower foot is in my kitchen can.<br />There isn't a normal pee-stream, like on newer engines.....how do you know if it's pumping water good?<br /><br />Engine stayed farly cool during my tests so far...in fact, the powerhead never really got too hot to touch, so it must be cooling.<br /><br />The motor runs smooth and well, but only when giving it throttle...Of course I kept the R's under control, and consider this it's break-in.<br />But it didn't want to run much at low speed....it would suddenly cut out, and sometimes I could catch it with throttle, othertimes not. I wasn't able to adjust the low speed jet, it cut out before I could do much.<br /><br />Then I pulled the plugs, and they looked a little wet, if anything. Dry off and re-install, But then it seems it wants a lot of fuel to start, cause next time, just when I'm ready to stop, the choke on will make it go.<br /><br />I'm learning that it will start right up with lots of throttle, but will cut out as soon as I quit giving it gas.....so it seems like low speed jets are not delivering anything...and I've tried to richen it up via the low-speed adjustment knob.<br />I've come to the conclusion that the low speed is now not delivering any fuel, tho it did a bit on my first start-up.<br /><br />How do I clean the carb? Does it need to be removed for this?<br />Any ideas?<br />Thanks in advance.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

SeaRobin - Somthing about WD-40. Only a few years ago down in the 'States WD-40 used propane as it's propellant. That made it one excellent starting fluid for two-strokes. Then they changed the formula, and used CO-2 as the propellant. All of a sudden, WD-40 doesn't start engines anymore. Check if you can says "Flammable" (CO2) or "Extremely (In?)Flammable" (propane).<br />Up here we're lucky to still have the propane propelled WD-40. :) <br /><br />You must remove, and completely disassemble the carburetor to clean it. The best way to clean one is to remove all the plastic bits, soak it in a can of carb cleaner for a few hours, and then blow it dry with compressed air, blowing out the passages. Then you reassemble it using a new carb kit, and adjust the float. Having a manual in hand is a prerequisite.<br />Then you ought to do a link & synch, which adjusts the timing to the carburetor's throttle plate. It's a good idea to do that every time you remove the carb. That procedure too is covered in a manual.<br />If you don't want to buy a manual, check out the library. Most of them have something that will be of use. I think they shouldn't allow them to be lent out between April and September though. :)
 

Link

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 13, 2003
Messages
4,221
Re: New 1963 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5

We used to use the old WD40 to jump start diesel motors. (rigs that were used only once or twice a year and not cost effective to replace glo plugs) The new WD40 here on the west coast wont do it. (as Paul says)<br />I call this the Magic Trick. (After the gentelman who coined the phrase) <br />Try firing up the motor in a barrel (for load) and let it idle (in forward gear) for a hour or so. <br />When I met him he was 65 years old and had been racing boats since his teens. A big name in racing boats during the 50's and 60's here in the NW. Well when I told him about getting a 1969 9.9 HP OMC outboard in 1986 he said to just fire it up! If no water came out of pee tube then shut it down and replace the impeller and try again.<br />Well we did and it only ran on one cylinder.. the top cylinder wasnt firing.. so we took his imput and let it run.. 30 minutes later after a cup of coffee we went back out and it was running on both cylinders.. ran great and started on 2nd pull each time for the next two years until it was stolen.<br />Nothing makes since on this reply of mine but we took his advice and it worked. BTW it has worked twice for me. Both on old Johnyrude 2 cylinders
 
Top