New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

[cc190cc]

Hey guys,

I just got done installing a reman chevy 350 marine motor into my boat (rapido marine motor). The motor is a Volvo Penta 5.7 GI (fuel injected (TBI) 350). I wanted to get this install done before the spring so i dont have to mess with it when I should be fishing. I started the baot for the first time and it fired right up, only let it run for about 10 seconds.

What should I do for a break-in. Should I run the motor at varying RPM's for an hour or so, winterize it, and be nice to it in the spring time for a while?

I have rebuilt many car motors and usually give them about 500 miles of break-in, just not really sure to do with a boat breakin.

Chad

 

[Bifflefan]

Re: New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

For our race motors, and any of the many others I have ever done. Run it at 2000 RPM for the first 30 mins, then drop it down to about 1000 for a about 10 mins. After that, run it like your going to run it for life.
The most important part is to get the cam broke in. Not getting enough oil on the cam in the begining is what makes most fail.
The rest fail during that first 30 mins, usually caused by bad parts or not being put together right.

 

[cc190cc]

Re: New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

Thats what I was thinking, I had heard the 2k rpm for 30 min before.

I primed the motor before starting, and when i did start it was at high idle due to the fuel injection and it being cold.

I am going to finish a few final things up and then run it at 2k for the 30 min breakin. The motor sounded really good when it was running.

Thanks alot man I appreciate it.

Chad

 

[redjmp]

Re: New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

After breaking in the cam, you should keep varying the rpms under load to seat the rings and valves and keep the rpms below 3000 for the first 10 hours or so then change the oil and filter. You should not run it too long at idle or without a load as this will glaze up the cylinders and cause excessive oil consumption. To reduce the risk of cam and lifter failure at break in, you might want to consider using an additive to the oil as an extra measure of protection. That was why they used to put lead in gas, to help protect the cam and lifters.

 

[Bondo]

Re: New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

Ayuh,... Isn't this a roller lifter cam motor,..??

If so,... Yer wasting your time breaking it in.... It's Roller....
And,..
Run time is irrevelant on the muffs,...
Break-in is done under Load...

 

[Aloysius]

Re: New 5.7 Break In - Out of Water

Ayuh,... Isn't this a roller lifter cam motor,..??

If so,... Yer wasting your time breaking it in.... It's Roller....
And,..
Run time is irrevelant on the muffs,...
Break-in is done under Load...

Roller lifter motors require little "break-in", as the roller cam needs none at all. "Moly" faced rings require essentially no break-in either. however, being a rebuild, I'd bet the components aren't as good as factory stuff, and clearances are a mixed bag. Therefore, Biffle's method is perfect.

Tetraethyl lead protected the stock soft machined iron valve seats from erosion. It never reached the cam and lifters, unless you had a massive fuel leak into the engine oil. Modern engines use either hardened valve seats or separate seats shrunk into the heads to compensate for the lack of "lube" from the lead.