New here - Trailer Overhaul...

[srothfuss]

Hello Everyone.

I stumbled upon this site in search of a trailer sailing forum so I thought I'd sign up and stick around to absorb some of the knowledge.

I've been sailing in my fathers Buccaneer since I was old enough to step the mast by myself and just recently bought my own little sail boat back in Feburary. [A 15' 1972 Chrysler Mutineer] The trailer is an original from Chrysler [single axle] and this winter I want to do the following things:

1) Replace all of the bearings and seals (repacking of course)
2) Replace the Tires [4.80x12 5-lug]
3) Repaint the entire Trailer, it has some rust
4) Replace some of the rollers to eliminate the black markings on my hull
5) Add a spare tire & new safety chain (just because)
6) Rebuild my bearing buddies that came with the trailer

My question is wheither or not I've missed anything in my to-do list. The lights and wiring were swapped out at the begining of the season with LED units.

 

[rndn]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Welcome to the forum, you really have access to a wealth of information and very knowledgable people. The only thing I can think of doing is to make sure your transom tie down is in good shape and rigged to do it's job.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Yeah, yesterday I read through almost 15 pages on the trailer / tow section looking for the information I wanted. Thanks for the tip too - I'll add it to my list.

Next summer I'll be driving from Michigan to Colorado with my boat in tow so I've got a lot of work to do to get ready.

 

[Mike722]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Since you are going to repaint, have the frame stripped and check all welds for cracks. Also replace all hardware.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Check the leaf springs for broken leafs. It's tough to see the cracks but if you examine the outer and inner edge of each leaf carefully at its center, that's generally where the crack will appear. The leafs are held together in the center with a bolt or rivet so the cracks appear at the that point. Over the week end I had a dude pass me with a box trailer that had half a leaf hanging by the shackle. The trailer was obviously listing on that side. Attempts to get his attention was futile.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

I'll give the leaf's a good check because they apprear to be original and welded to the trailer frame. I would have to go to my local RV shop to have new ones installed as I am not good enough at welding yet.

Most of my trailer paint is intact. The mast crutch up front is where all of the surface rust resides but it will be nice and clean before I prime / paint it.

I've also taken a screw driver and hammer to most of the c-channel sections to verify they are structurally sound (even if they are just a tad bit dirty at the moment)

 

[Mark42]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

I'll give the leaf's a good check because they apprear to be original and welded to the trailer frame.

That doesn't sound quite right. Leaf springs shouldn't be welded to anything. First of all, welding will remove some of the spring tension, second, they need to move as they flatten/lengthen under load and bumps. Usually one end has a loop with a bolt running through it to secure it to the frame. The other end is either the same, with a shackle arrangement, or is left bent in a mild S shape (called a slipper spring) and the flat end just rubs against the frame, usually held in place by a loosly fitting U bracket.

Check it out closely and let us know what you find. Or post a photo.

 

[bassboy1]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

I think he means the shackles are welded on.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Ok, I looked a lot closer at the spring setup. They are a 2 leaf setup, I originally thought it was a single leaf setup. The front of the spring has a bolt through a welded bracket and the back of the spring is not welded as I originally thought. It lays loosely in a pocket similar to a slipper spring except there is no curve - just flat.

I can post a picture later tonight when I get off of work.

 

[Mark42]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

...... The front of the spring has a bolt through a welded bracket and the back of the spring is not welded as I originally thought. It lays loosely in a pocket similar to a slipper spring except there is no curve - just flat.....

That is still called a slipper spring, because it slips along the frame, not attached by a shackle. So if you plan on replacing them, look at slipper springs. There are two or three common end shapes on slippers, they will probably all work as long as they are the same rating and length.

 

[roadrunnr]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

I overhauled my trailer about 3 years ago. I know you already did the lighting but being tired of lighting problems, due to poor grounding, I ran seperate grounds to both tail lights. No more dim tail lights! I'm now in the process of grounding the side marker lights. Just something you may want to consider.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Finally got a chance to take a picture of the spring setup. Pay no mind to the splattered grease, I've already got the replacement parts lined up for the winter (rebuild the hubs)

 

[Rusty Boater]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Are those thread in hubs; meaning do the lugs thread thru the wheel and into the hub or are they like a car and have wheel studs?

if they are thread in's then may i suggest just buying new hubs (they will come with bearings, races, and seals as well. Good deal for what you get. My guess is with five lugs you will need a five lug hub for a 1" spindle.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Yes the hubs are thread in. I'm curious as to the importance to switch out though. Is it because of safety or just because it'll be easier to mount the rim to the hub that way?

The spindle is 1"
Hubs are 5 on 4.5
Bearing # is the standard 44643

Currently the hub has Timken bearings in them but one race / bearing is shot so I can switch out over winter while I rebuild the trailer.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Thread in hubs are fine. I wouldn't replace them.

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Thanks!

Today I picked up my hub rebuild parts so all I have to do is get to work before the weather gets really cold and I get lazy.

If it was recommended to get new hubs, I would have just kept the bearing kits as spares (murphy's law again)... But the cost is probably going to work out to be the slightly cheaper to rebuilding with manual labor instead and that's extra money to spend on other stuff like a pair of padded shorts

 

[clemsonfor]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Padded shorts?

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Padded shorts?

It's a fiberglass sailboat and sitting on the rail for 3 hours can really hurt my "rear end." So some smart guy stuck some foam padding in a pair of shorts and started selling them to the sailing community years ago. Now they are known as "dinghey shorts" but I really need them.

 

[Rusty Boater]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

Yes the hubs are thread in. I'm curious as to the importance to switch out though. Is it because of safety or just because it'll be easier to mount the rim to the hub that way?

The spindle is 1"
Hubs are 5 on 4.5
Bearing # is the standard 44643

Currently the hub has Timken bearings in them but one race / bearing is shot so I can switch out over winter while I rebuild the trailer.

It is easier to mount the wheels; stud hubs are stronger. If you cross thread a studded hub you can have another pressed in. A thread hub has the tendency to cross thread; and also to work itself loose.

I worked at a trailer place for 7 years. Why do you think they do not put them on trailers any more?

 

[srothfuss]

Re: New here - Trailer Overhaul...

While I agree that it is easier to mount the wheel / tire assembly on to a hub that is equipped with studs, I do not think there is any more threat of a cross threading issue. I firmly believe that cross threading is always a result of "operator impatience."

I am certain that no OEM trailers come with thread in hubs today, but you can still buy brand new (thread in hubs) online and they are rated for the same weight.

1350 pounds per hub on the 1" axle.

I was thinking the recommendation to switch would have been because of the mounting flange. As my trailer originally came with 8" mini tires and now runs a larger tire without a change in flange diameter...