New Ignition Switch and Problems Start

[davidjett]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here and after speaking to several people locally here in Columbia was referred to this site by a fellow boater.

I just recently aquired a 1988 Venture Tournament Ed. from my grandfather. The boat is fitted with a 1988 Mercury Black Max V175 engine. The boat and engine is in great shape and it was last on the water in June of this year.
My grandfather is getting up there in age and had misplaced the keys to the boat. After fruitless searching I decided to open the control box and replace the ignition switch with a new one. I took the old switch to the local boat shop and they gave me a generic switch from a company called "Boater Sports" that looks almost identical with the same markings on the back. After replacing the switch I'm able to turn the key and engine cranks but I'm not generating any current at all in the engine, nothing.. I thought maybe the emergency cutoff switch was causing issues so I disconnected it from the ignition cylinder and this still did not work.

Old switch is unbranded and looks to be the original. It has six connectors labeled M, M, B, A, S, and C. The new switch has the same connection labels and has been wired identical to the old one.

This is the new switch
http://www.southernmarinesupply.com/images1/RL33-105tb.jpg
It's a Boater Sports RL33-105 Ignition Switch.

I've had my brother-in-law whom is an auto mechanic look at it and even though boat engines are not his specialty he said the engine looks great and everything "seems" to test ok.

Just kind of odd that prior to the ignition switch change the boat would give spark to the spark plugs and now I'm getting nothing. Just the engine turning over with no spark.

Let me know if anyone has any ideas or if you need further info. I'd love to get this thing into the water.

Thanks in advance!!!!

David

 

[Laddies]

Re: New Ignition Switch and Problems Start

Go to the switch boxes and disconnect the black/yellow wire and if the system is OK you should have spark, if you don't the system is faulty if you do the switch is either wired wrong or defective. A second thought the tether is not turned of is it.

 

[davidjett]

Re: New Ignition Switch and Problems Start

Hi Laddies, thanks for the ideas. I removed the switch box and noticed that it's actually two switch boxes on top of one another, both boxes had the black wire with yellow stripe. Same wire that goes to the ignition kill box up front. I removed each wire indenpendantly then both together and didn't get a spark any of the 3 instances.

Forgive my ignorance but just getting around boats and boat engines but what is a tether and how to do I verify if it's turned off? That's not the safety switch is it? If so then unfortunately yes, it's in the correct "Run" position.

Any more ideas.. Sad sad.. was hoping to get this thing into the water with the family this weekend.

 

[davidjett]

Re: New Ignition Switch and Problems Start

Well.... I feel like a complete and utter idiot....
I've discovered what "PUSH" to choke means. It means that you have to push in the key as you turn it... Doh!!!
So.. I've have the control box apart probably 15 times looking for the problem. I've replaced wires, spent probably 20 hours+ of my time and hours of family members time and all along all I had to do was push the key...

Well I'm relieved that it was a simple and easy "fix" but still feel like a doofus..
Thanks for all your help.

I'm sure I'm the kind of guy that'll have to have my truck towed out of the drink due to a faulty boat launch...

Now if I can just find some videos on propper boat launching and loading I'll be all set!!!

 

[Laddies]

Re: New Ignition Switch and Problems Start

The system is a ground off system like a magneto, so with the wires disconnected the ign.system should function and when the black/yellow is grounded the ign. should be shut off. I know many people who use aftermarket switches with good luck, many years ago I got one that was in the wrong box and it cost me a switch box that was the end of me and aftermarket switches. Use a voltmeter between the black/yellow wire and ground to see there is not voltage there, if it OK then use a OHM meter in the same position and see that the switch is functioning properly. If it is I can seen you a test for the ign. system as the trouble is in it.