New motor instlaltion

[elcamino12sec]

I purchased a Suzuki 225 2stroke (2003 new model) and going to have it rigged this sat, I removed my old engine and the wiring not needen for the new motor myself to cut down on the hourly labor rate they will charge (have to have them rig it in order to have the warranty) my question is: what should I look out for when I get my boat back? is there anything that these guys typicaly do to hurry through things? I am using the original controle box, but I had to buy a wiring harness and the mulitfuncion tach, and help would be great, thanks.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: New motor instlaltion

hello<br /> not a lot a customer can do as most dont have the tools training or knowledge but then I know a lot of riggers and techs with the same problems.<br /> I would suggest a new control box especially if its a morse type twin lever that control has made me a pile of money with gear case repairs.make sure they use 5200 and not sill-e-cone to seal the transome bolts. other than that unless your watching them its hard to check. there is a predelivery inspection sheet that the tech the dealer and you have to sign. I would want a sea-trial as well. just to insure it idles properly, accelerates and will turn up to its max operating RPM.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[lakensea]

Re: New motor instlaltion

First of all, do you currently have a Suzuki on the boat? If you have a Suzuki control box and key switch assembly, then you do not need new ones, unless they are in poor condition. Also, those engines come with a tach, monitor gauge and monitor harness in the crate - don't let them charge you for them.

 

[elcamino12sec]

Re: New motor instlaltion

Thanks for the replys guys, I had a DT140 so I will be using a Suzuki side mount control box and it works fine, as far as the tach and such, the sales man said it will come with a prop and I would have to purchase the harness and mulit function gage thing, is this true? Also, they said they have a big pool that they back the whole boat and trailer into and they break in the motor before you pick it up, I pulled the motor and non needed wiring and gauges off my self to cut down on labor rate, but he said it will still cost around 8-9 hundred to mound and pdi the whole deal, seems alot in my book. I think I could do it my self in about a day or so, what do you guys think, am I being jerked around or what?

 

[elcamino12sec]

Re: New motor instlaltion

RODBOLT, can you explain to me what 5200 is and what it looks like, this way I can tell if they used it or not, also, if the motor does not turn the max 5600 like suzuki says, are they responsible for furniching me with a prop which allows the proper rpm for my motor to operate? thanks for the replys guys!!!!

 

[lakensea]

Re: New motor instlaltion

As I said above, the tach, monitor gauge and harness come packed in the engine. Actually, your current tach will work, and probably the monitor gauge you have, depending on the year of your DT140. I would not use 5200 on engine mounting bolts because you may have to remove the engine, or change engine height. We use MMM 4200 or Rule Elastomeric sealant. $800-$900 seems pretty steep to me. Yes, it is their responsibilty to make sure the engine is propped correctly and there is a line referring to that on the PDI form.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: New motor instlaltion

hello<br /> 5200 is a dupont trade name for a serious marine sealant/adhesive. if done correctly it will pull the gelcoat from your transom when the motor is removed next time.<br /> it is all we will use. also all contender,regulator fountain and a few others around here will use. 3-M 4200 and the elastomerics should work. we just dont use it here. that is why I say water test it, let them pilot it while you observe. this done after carefully memorizing the breakin. just remember that after 30 to 60 min its ok to run up to wot for 30 to 60 sec to see if the prop is ok. you cannot and will not and never could break a motor in in a swimming pool, unless maybe it was Ken's boat but Barbie got that in the divorce. this suzuki is as good or better than your last but it still requires proper breakin and a 5 min warm up before applying a load. I think that year was still using Boron coated liners and forged pistons.<br />800-900 sounds steep but I am not looking at your hull. some hulls are impossible to work with. I have one now that to access the two lower motor mounting bolts the builtin gas tank has to come out. takes about 7 hours just to remove and reinstall the tank and all the hull pieces. I dont know if your model comes with anything. some have posted with info that it does. it will be in the rigging guide. I worked for a dealer for a few days once that sold the battery cables as extras.<br />its a roll of the dice but for 900 that should include a water test.<br /> good luck and keep us posted.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: New motor instlaltion

Rodbolt, tongue in cheek, just gave the biggest reason NOT to use 3M 5200, not only won't it allow the motor to be removed normally, but other outboard companies recommend in their service literature NOT to use that type of adhesive sealer. Most repowers may need the motor to be moved up or down slightly for best performance and in some cases the motor has to be removed from the boat for repairs to steering and power trim systems. Why pay extra labor and costs plus possible gelcote damage, just to move a motor mounted with 5200?<br /><br />Siicone is a NO NO in underwater applicaitons, just like the wise Rodbolt mentioned earlier. <br /><br />Your best bet is to use Boat Life Life Calk (affectionally called white death) because it is a non-hardening sealer that can cure underwater and will adhere to any dampness in a transom of a<br />used boat. It is the recommended sealer ( and there are similar brands ) by most boat companies. It is a true bedding compound that can be removed without any pry bars or expensive solvents.

 

[lakensea]

Re: New motor instlaltion

Seahorse,<br /><br /> I was trying to be a bit more diplomatic. We very rarely use 5200. In fact I only keep the small 1oz tubes in stock for emergencies. We use the Rule Elastomeric becasue it is the only thing that will seal the polyethylene Triumph Boats we sell. I, was however unaware of the fact that the Life Caulk could be applied to a wet surface. I'll have to get some for the wet transoms. If I remember correctly, the last time I used it it had a terrible odor and was quite hard to clean up.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: New motor instlaltion

Hey Lakensea,<br /><br />You and I have been around these newsgroups for who knows how long together. Like Rodbolt, you and I are professionals in this business and we donate our time and experiences to help others, for no compensation at all. I'm sure the mis-information that is spread on some of these newsgroups, rubs you the wrong way, as it does me. When we can pass tips to each other, that is icing on the cake.<br /><br />Just as doctors may consult over a diagnosis and not always agree how to "get there", we normally arrive at the same "destination" i the end.<br /><br />Life Calk is super stuff for the right applications. It is messy but it cleans up easily with alcohol or laquer thinner and a rag. Being that it works with wet wood makes it great when working on older boats that always have some encapsulated moisture in the transoms or hulls.<br /><br />Damn, I better get off my soapbox now.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: New motor instlaltion

hello<br /> well I have seen lawsuits won because the sealer allowed water entry. in my shop I use boatlife. at some of the other shops they require I use 5200. but yes I have lifted the entire 28ft mako stern off the work rack trying to break 5200 free. its mean. its nasty, but it wont leak. I just bid a repower on a 34 contender. take a pair of F225's off and install a pair of Z300's. I bid the f225 removal at 5 hours for the pair cause I know they where installed from the factory with 5200 on all surfaces.I have a special putty type knife that I made some years ago that I can drive between the transom and the motor bracket. usually cuts the stuff.<br /> its funny that most engine manufatures still say silicone the bolts. sill-e-cone will leak into the transom and cause problems.<br /> now ya know. if they sill-e-coned it make them remount it. big V6's will shear the sillicone seal and leak.<br /> so you know your options.<br /> good luck and keep posting<br />5200 takes 7 days to cure. plenty of time to set up the motor.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: New motor instlaltion

At least the latest Johnson and Evinrude rigging guides now say not to use silicone or a polyurethane sealer like 5200, but one that is approved by the manufacturer for underwater use.