New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

[GBOverKill]

Hi, I'm looking forward to our first 70 degree day tomorrow here up nort' BUT my new prop arrived today from iBoats, however, I don't believe it's fitting correctly. I have a 1994 Force 120. I ordered the Michigan Wheel Vortex 3-blade aluminum 13x19 (part number 992115) with Hub Kit (part number 991002).

I called iBoats as well as Michigan Wheel and they insist it's the correct setup for my motor.

The dilemma is that I don't believe the prop is seating properly on the shaft.....here's what I did....removed the old prop/hub/thrust washer....put on the new thrust washer/hub kit/prop....on the prop end that faces the lower unit is about a 1/2" collar (I forget the techincal name for it) that on my old prop slid right into the lower unit....well on the new prop, it will not slide in, just stays out (it does not spin freely as it should)....See Picture Below....PLEASE HELP!

 

[reelfishin]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

I'm no Force expert but:
Will the prop fit inside the lip of the lower unit if you leave out the thrust washer? In other words, is it the correct diameter?

Does the prop hub look or measure the same depth as the old prop?

Is there any definite visually differences?

What does it look like if you installed the thrust washer from the old prop with the new prop?

Is the new thrust washer directional? (Have a front or back side?)

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

Remove the prop and try removing the anode if it is there. I am reasonably sure that the 94 still has one. It is the grey colored Zinc piece behind the prop that is held on with two screws. The internal hub or the thrust washer on the Vortex may be interfereing with it.

 

[GrindKore]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

You may need a narrow flange prop, I had to return new QuickSilver prop and exchange it for 13.5x19 Michigan Wheel prop for my 1990 Force 90. I believe later year Force's lower unit housing was slightly larger diameter than pre 1992 models.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

I just received my brand new Vortex prop. I does not fit any of my Force lower units just as yours does not.

With me, the problem is that the webs (between the inner and outer casting) inside the prop contact the anode; my original suspicion was correct but for a different reason. If you do have an anode inside the lower unit flange, remove it and the prop should fit.

 

[GBOverKill]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

I took a closer look at it today and it looks like the anode is interferring with the webs just as you referenced Frank. The engineer at Michigan Wheel is going to email me this week with a solution; he asked me to take several pictures, etc.

Two questions though....
1. Isn't the anode a necessary piece on the lower unit to prevent corrossion??? I've actually heard both yes and no to this question. One of my coworkers who's boated for years says no because I'm in fresh water and trailer my boat vs. having it docked all the time. But my thinking is water is water and corrossion is corrosion...water will always be present....

2. I tired to remove the two screws that hold the anode on just to see if the suggestion above would work on a dry fit but....I can't get those screws out, I've tried with all my might and they won't budge! Are they usually held in place with LocTite or something???

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

I have not removed any anodes yet because I am lazy and right now am not going to use the prop. I just wanted to know what the problem was. I got the prop cheap on ebay. It came off a 75 HP Merc and I took a gamble. This time it paid-off. Later on if I do use the prop, I will probably remove the anode on whichever engine that prop is mounted.

Well, the anode won't hurt in fresh water, but it is absolutely necessary in salt. However, if it makes you feel better, you can buy a streamlined flat plate anode and bolt it to the cavitation plate. OR--If you have the long anode, they did make a shorter one which may not interfere. ---Hmmmm! I have oneon my dual exhaust lower! Maybe I'll try it when I get a couple of minutes free.

As for the screws, they are in there TIGHT because as I remember, there are no lockwashers under the heads. There should not be any Lock-Tite because this insulates the screws and reduces the conductivity of the anode with the case.

It is easiest to use an impact screwdriver but if you don't have one, use a large square shaft screwdriver with a wrench on the shaft. Push in extremely forcefully while starting to turn so the driver won't cam out of the screw slot. After the screws break free they will come out easier. Replace the fillister head screws with 1/4 X 20 X 1/2 or 3/4 --whichever fits best--Allen head bolts. Hex head will not fit in the recess. Actually, the bolt will fit but not the socket. If you do replace the anode, be certain to get them in as tight as possible because if they back out they will damage the anode and prop.

Then, of course, instead of removing the anode, you can also cut off the flange on it to whatever length fits. I don't know if your lower has the long anode --about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 deep or the short one--about 3/4 to 1 inch.

 

[GBOverKill]

Re: New Prop won't fit! ('94 120 Force) HELP!

Hi, sorry it's taken me so long to get back on here..... It appears that my anode has the longer flange. After about an hour, lots of swearing, my hands hurting, and almost stripping off the top of those two screws on the anode, trying to get it off, I gave up! So out came the sawsall and angle grinder...I shaved off about half of the flange on the anode all the way around, so about 1/2 inch remains. I fitted the prop and it works like a charm now!

BTW, the engineer at Michigan Wheel wasn't much help...

Thanks for all the advice!