new regulator/rectifier went bad.

[wmconway]

Hi all,

I have a 1995 Johnson 200. I recently replaced a failing stator (the leaking goo problem) and the regulator/rectifier. After the initial startup, the system was charging at 13.5 V. I went out to check it this weekend and it isn't charging at all. Other than disconnecting the battery or the red charging lead, what would kill a regulator/rectifier? I noticed that the Tachometer sits at 1000 rpm and doesn't respond to throttle as it did before.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: new regulator/rectifier went bad.

You don't have to disconnect anyting on purpose to kill a regulator/rectifier. When was the last time battery cables were removed, cleaned, thoroughly checked, battery terminals cleaned, and the cables securely attached - - at BOTH ends (as just one example). The red charging lead is not the only wire involved. Any wire or connection that can disrupt +12 volts or ground anywhere in the engine will kill the unit. This is exactly why nearly any vendor selling electronic/electrical components for a boat, car or truck will have a "no-return policy". The other reason is people have no diagnostic skills so they buy a part hoping it is the problem only to find out it isn't and then want their money back. The dealer then gets stuck trying to sell a used part that is probably toast as well. Fixing the problem is not just replacing a part. Determining why it failed in the first place is absolutely necessary otherwise one gets to do the job over again.

 

[wmconway]

Re: new regulator/rectifier went bad.

I just replaced the battery cables and cleaned up the contacts with a bronze wire brush. The battery terminals are attached with SS nuts and washers. The old rectifier/regulator was operating the tach but it wasn't charging. They recommend to replace the rectifier/regulator whenever you replace the stator so i did and the system was charging at 13.5 V not 14.5 like they say it should.

After running the motor for about 3 minutes, I noticed that the power coil on the stator was very hot while the charge coils and alternator coils were just slightly warm. The power coil drives the S.L.O.W and QuikStart in the Power Pack. Does this mean that the power pack is bad too?

 

[wmconway]

Re: new regulator/rectifier went bad.

Come on fellas, i know that some of you pros can weigh in on this. This motor has a real problem and i need some useful advice. It ain't a dead battery and i don't need to tighten battery cables again.

 

[Big flop]

Re: new regulator/rectifier went bad.

Most tacks will stay at there last RPM when turned off
They need 12.volts / key on to zero ( purple wire)
Regulator rect has a purple wire that gets 12. Volts when
keys is turned on to work.
I would make sure you have power at both places.

 

[wmconway]

Re: new regulator/rectifier went bad.

Got it fixed again.
Pulled the stator cause magnetoresistance from the flywheel magnets was interfering with resistance checks.
It ohmed out a little high on the alternator coils, but CDI ain't OMC. Scraped the paint off the stator mounts like the manual said. New R/R and switched out the power pack cause the power coil was overheating. Charged up SB to 12.53v and it started in 3 revolutions and charges at 14.24v.

Hope it lasts this time.