Re: New to the forum with my first boat
That engine is JUST before they changed to a 1 piece lower unit. And, even though the two piece is about 3 MPH slower, I like their look. Props are getting more difficult to find but if you search ebay some come up. NONE can be purchased new.
NOW: These engines can be persnickety to start so: Pump the fuel bulb in the line until it is hard. This ensures that both carbs are full. NOW: Pull out the silver knob on the control box and advance the throttle as far as it will go. This is fast idle/warm-up position. On a cold start, many of these engine simply will not start unless the control handle is in that position. Push in the key to choke and hold it in while turning to start position. Again, on a cold start, almost none of these engines will start without choking.
After the engine starts, pull back on the control a bit to lower RPM some and let it warm up for a couple of seconds to 15-20. Depends on the engine. You will get to know it. Now pull the control back to vertical and push in the silver button. The engine will run and shift into gear normally.
That is a really nice package you have. Enjoy it.
As a matter of course, replace the lower unit oil and the water pump impeller--that way, you KNOW it is OK. As a 1978, it has a distributor but has an electric eye, not points. DO not attempt to tighten the distributor belt. If too tight it will cause the engine to have shifting problems. Watch my tutorial in the sticky. It shows a 3 cylinder distributor engine but they are basically the same as the 4 cylinders. DO NOT use bent electrode plugs ONLY surface gap are acceptable Champion L20V, ul18V Or NGK BUHW or BUHX are acceptable.
There are two sources of power to the CD unit and one comes directly from the battery If you disconnect the battery for a while, the capacitors will self discharge. Then, when you reconnect the battery you will get a spark at the terminal. This is normal for this type ignition system
