Newbie from NY

[delay18]

Hey everyone. I am a new guy here from upstate NY. I am heading out this Saturday to pick up my first "real" boat. I have had a bunch of row boats and Jon boats in the past but this will be the first decent boat. It is a 1980 Starcraft SS 160. Sitting on a newer galvanized trailer, and a newer (mid 80's) Johnson 50 hp and a bimini top. The guy said he put a new floor in it a couple years ago, and that it is "water ready". I have never delt with a boat like this or a motor of this size. Any thing I should look out for?

My goal is to have something that I can go out fishing with my dad and some buddies, and that the wife doesn't totally hate (She hated the little boat and refused to get in a bass boat). I know the boat isn't perfect, but hopefully it will get me through this season and then I can do some work next winter. He is asking $1500 but said if I show up with cash he'll take $1,200.

Thoughts from the experts?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Seems like a steal to me with a running motor. Are you going to be able to test ride it too? Motors can sound good on a hose, but show the demons when pushing weight. Any fishfinders or trolling motors in the deal too?

But, if the floor is solid and the transom isn't mulch, its still a fairly good deal if the motor needs some tuning up.

That's my thoughts.

Other's have a more precise "things to check for" list.

 

[jbcurt00]

Makes my eye 'twitch' when sellers say they put in a new deck (floor) in either an aluminum or a glass boat and the boat is water ready.

But an 80s boat, newer galvanized trailer w a running mid 80s Johnson OB is a good deal at $1500, even better at 1200. Not stealing it, but a good deal. Even if it needs work.

Having said that, IF the transom wasnt replaced too, the deck was laid over the old deck, there are no before/during/after pix of the redo, you cant drop it in the water and take it for a cruise, 1200 needs to be the max paid, IMO. Regardless of what the seller says, if none of the above can be proven true, there could be more work ahead then you'd expect for a water ready boat.

My last caveat is that IF pressure treated lumber was used ANYWHERE on the boat, it's an entirely different negotiation. You'd need to remove ALL the pressure treated wood and assess the condition of the aluminum hull. Even though its a newer boat compared to many posted on iboats, there could be lots of damage hidden below/behind pressure treated wood.

Aluminum and pressure treated lumber arent a good combo.

 

[dozerII]

^^ Welcome to the site delay18, what jb said. Check in the bilge opening to check for a double layer plywood, also around the center side supports for the consuls. Johnsons are very good engines but they can have ignition issues, and always check for leaks at the prop for gear oil.

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard, delay.

Show up with 10 C notes in one pocket, two 50's in the other pocket and two 50's in the back pocket. After looking her over offer the $1000 if all the things mentioned above check out. If the deck looks doubled, bad looking transom, motor won't start, etc., start with a lower offer.

Pictures often look better and when you get there, you wonder why you showed up.

Good luck!

 

[delay18]

Thanks guys! I will let you know how I make out and of course will have some more pictures.

Anything in particular I should look for on the motor? Common issues? Or basically if it runs with no leaks then it's good?

 

[Bow Guy]

When you get there, first examination of the motor, put your hand on the motor near the pee hole and exhaust to see if he previously started it, if its warm. Could be hiding starting issues.. If the transom has never been replaced it will need it. I am restoring almost the exact same boat a 1988 Smoker Craft Challenger.. I paid $450 for the boat and Galvanized trailer (no motor) came with fish finder & anchor. The deck was rotted, both console wood and transom rotted but the Hull was leak free.. Bought a good running 73 Mercury 650 65hp for $500.. I am into the boat with my repair costs at $1400 so far and I am not done yet. So if I were you I would not pay more than a 1000 for the boat. Looks like a nice boat!! Good luck !!
Check out my restore in the Boat hull restoration section..
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-floor-replace

Delay18 where are you in NY? , Im in Wappingers Falls

 

[delay18]

When you get there, first examination of the motor, put your hand on the motor near the pee hole and exhaust to see if he previously started it, if its warm. Could be hiding starting issues.. If the transom has never been replaced it will need it. I am restoring almost the exact same boat a 1988 Smoker Craft Challenger.. I paid $450 for the boat and Galvanized trailer (no motor) came with fish finder & anchor. The deck was rotted, both console wood and transom rotted but the Hull was leak free.. Bought a good running 73 Mercury 650 65hp for $500.. I am into the boat with my repair costs at $1400 so far and I am not done yet. So if I were you I would not pay more than a 1000 for the boat. Looks like a nice boat!! Good luck !!
Check out my restore in the Boat hull restoration section..
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-floor-replace

Delay18 where are you in NY? , Im in Wappingers Falls

Thanks for the tip Bow Guy. I will def check out your build. I am a couple hours north of you. About 25 mins outside Albany.

 

[Watermann]

:welcome: aboard delay,

Looks to be a fairly well taken care of SS. I like the colors, not sure I've seen that combo before.

 

[Tnstratofam]

We have an 81 SS160 and use it for both fishing and just cruising around the lake. That one looks really good, although pictures can be deceiving.

 

[jbcurt00]

Bump

Inquiring minds want to know:

Got SS yet?

 

[delay18]

Well everyone I did pick it up. Got it for 1000. It is sitting on a newer Calvis (I think that is right) trailer. The motor is original to the boat (previous owner was wrong). It is going to need some work, but I am hoping that I can nurse it through this season. There is a bunch of snow and ice in it at the moment. He had uncovered it to show someone and then never covered it back up. So I am trying to melt it all then get an idea of exactly what I am working with.

The motor fired right up and is in really good shape. The transom is bad around the splash well area. His floor "repair" was a new sheet of plywood over the top of the rotten floor. with some astro turf on top. Obviously this all needs to go but the overall shell is in great shape. Anyone have a rough ballpark of what it would cost material wise to do the floor and transom?

 

[Watermann]

Uh hem, is someone forgetting the cursory photo posting? Yeah the ad pics don't count either. :nono:

Cost depends on materials you want to use. There are lots of options and variables. Marine ply is $75 a sheet for 3/4", 1/2" is $55. and 5/8" would be somewhere in the middle I suppose. Then there's rigid foam board for flotation. Sealer for the ply, spar or glasser epoxy. Deck covering material. Rivets, screws, 5200 and gluvit.

That's your base shopping list.

 

[Bow Guy]

I called all around and the 1/2" is $80.00 (Williams Lumber will order it for you) a sheet, you will need 3 sheets. That why I went with 1/8 aluminum, it was quite a bit more but no Spar varnishing or epoxy needed just 3/16 rivets.. Transom I used 1 sheet 3/4 exterior Ply 33.00 and 1 bottle TiteBond 3.. you will have enough of the 3/4 to do both dashboards I'm sure there rotted, you don't want the steering wheel coming off in your hand or worse the motor to the bottom when you're out on the Majestic Hudson. I'm in for $500 so far for the floor, transom, both side panels and both dashboards and 3 yards of marine vinyl( Jo-Ann's fabrics), rivets and assorted ss screws and so on...

 

[Bow Guy]

Uh hem, is someone forgetting the cursory photo posting? Yeah the ad pics don't count either. :nono:

Cost depends on materials you want to use. There are lots of options and variables. Marine ply is $75 a sheet for 3/4", 1/2" is $55. and 5/8" would be somewhere in the middle I suppose. Then there's rigid foam board for flotation. Sealer for the ply, spar or glasser epoxy. Deck covering material. Rivets, screws, 5200 and gluvit.

That's your base shopping list.

Watermann... here in NY the prices and much higher.... lol.... 1/2 MP is $80 a sheet

 

[delay18]

I called all around and the 1/2" is $80.00 (Williams Lumber will order it for you) a sheet, you will need 3 sheets. That why I went with 1/8 aluminum, it was quite a bit more but no Spar varnishing or epoxy needed just 3/16 rivets.. Transom I used 1 sheet 3/4 exterior Ply 33.00 and 1 bottle TiteBond 3.. you will have enough of the 3/4 to do both dashboards I'm sure there rotted, you don't want the steering wheel coming off in your hand or worse the motor to the bottom when you're out on the Majestic Hudson. I'm in for $500 so far for the floor, transom, both side panels and both dashboards and 3 yards of marine vinyl( Jo-Ann's fabrics), rivets and assorted ss screws and so on...

Bow - If you don't mind me asking how much did the aluminum flooring set you back? Do you have any sag or softness in the 1/8 aluminum? I am a big guy (300lbs) so I want to make sure I have a good deck under me lol. I wouldn't have even considered that because I would've figured it cost way more. I don't even know if there is anywhere around me to get that much aluminum.

Watermann - I know I am in dept to the mob lol. I will get some pictures tonight. I wanted to get all the snow and crap out of it first lol

 

[Bow Guy]

The aluminum cost me $365.00 ( I figured with plywood and doing the spar concoction that Woodnglass suggests would run about $325.00 plus the time between coats ) the foam flotation under the floor makes it it good and I added a few braces from the scrap aluminum..once it's riveted in it stiffens up... I have one spot at the bow that moves a little but not bad. I am going to cover the floor locking foam 25"x25' squares for easy cleaning and removal... the aluminum comes in 4'x8' sheets just like PW. check out my rebuild...you will never have to replace it again!! and a good selling point... I'm 220...dont worry you won't fall through.. lol

 

[delay18]

No Title

Well it's nothing much but here is what I have. I pulled the seats out to scrub them. The plan this year is to do the transom and run it as is. Next year planning on a full build. I know it's not ideal to do the transom and not the floor, but unfortunately the money is not there at the moment and I want to be able to fish this year. So for this season I will be stock piling some parts and ideas for the build.

 

[Bow Guy]

D18 ...Nice Boat, I think the transom is the most important, and not connected to the floor in any way. The floor is another story, seats side panels,consoles, front storage compartments, gas tank,battery etc... If you you want I have 2 drain aluminum Tubes for the transom if you want I can mail them to you free. I bought 4 thinking I would ruin one on installation but did not so there yours if you want!.. BG

 

[Watermann]

Hey there ya go :thumb:

I would suggest you set aside some coin for the motor in particular the cooling system. My 55 Hp Johnny of the same era didn't have a tell tale so I put one in. For the cooling system I would suggest the entire system be replaced with a water pump kit, T-Stat, pop off grommet / spring and I also replaced the prop and drive shaft seals. None of this costs very much on these motors and isn't really difficult either. The new parts can be priceless though when it comes to motor health and reliability. Some of the other parts I've replaced are fuel pump, coils, power pack, starter and solenoid.