No fire

Blvr

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
NO FIRE JOHNSON RDS23. Could these reading be why? Thanks.

STENS 7mm copper core.

TOP PLUG HT WIRE TESTED WITH DIGITAL MULTIMETER:

ON 200 Ohms setting - (00.4)

ON 2000 Ohms setting - (004)




COIL TEST

200 Ohms setting - (leads touching black and blue coil wires 01.6)

2000 Ohms setting ( leads touching black and blue wires 003).

20k ohms - touching black to where plug wire connects to coil, read lead to black wire (7.17).

Black lead in still in same place and red lead touching blue wire (7.17).

Reading of “1” on all ohm settings when black lead touching coils metal base and then touched individually the red lead to the black wire, blue wire and to the post where the plug wire connects.




“1” on all ohm settings on both condenser. Black lead on metal base and red on wire.

“00.3” on 220m DCV. BLACK TO METAL BASE AND RED TO WIRE.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
If magneto is assembled: Set meter on 1K ohms and measure resistance from the boot (spring connector in boot) to the mag plate. A reading of 4 or 5 tells you the secondary winding is good, and you have a connection from the boot through to ground. Test both leads.

If the coils are cracked, just replace them. They are due to fail. Measure spark with a device like this, both plugs removed:

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Set the tester to 3/8". You can test by placing the flywheel over the shaft, key in place. Spin it by hand (2 gloved hands) -- clockwise. Make sure the tester has a clean powerhead ground (use a jumper wire if necessary). Key needs to be in run position.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Blvr, trying to wrap my head around what you wrote, it sounds pretty normal--except there should be no DCV unless flywheel is on and moving.

If I may simplify, with all wires connected normally, connect your meter leads between magneto plate and the connection where the coil/condenser wires meet the points. With meter set to lowest setting, you should see zero Ohms when points are closed, and somewhere around an Ohm when points are open. If you can't get zero when points are closed, points are dirty or worn out. Note: true "zero" may be hard to accomplish, due to meter variables. But should be very close.

EDIT: A disconnected condenser may show a DCV if slightly charged. Cure: Don't be looking for invalid tests.
 
Last edited:

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,415
Coils are quite cheap.----Hardly worth a lot of time testing them with mixed results.------If coils are original they need to be replaced.------Lots of tutorials on this simple magneto on YOU TUBE.-------Picked up 4 motors with that ignition a few weeks ago.-----2 had cracked coils and 2 had all new parts.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,930
Make sure the mag plate has conductivity to engine block. Had a customer years ago bring me a 40hp he and several shops had been dinking with. Long story short and a few beers ..found someone had installed a nylon sleeve in mag plate to take up wear an isolating mag plate from block. A simple installation of a ground wire from plate to block cured the no spark issue.
 

Blvr

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Thanks for replies to my awkward post. Coils, condensers and one set of points are all new.
Will try your recommendations. I don’t have a 1k Ohms setting. Which of these would be best? 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000 or 200?
Looking to upgrade on quality of multimeters soon. Thank you in advance.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,415
Is the air gap on the COILS set correctly ?----Are the points set / timed correctly ?-----With all those new parts you should get spark that will jump a gap of 5/16" with a " snap " you can hear.----A small lightning storm !
 

Blvr

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Didn’t get to work on it today. Fixing zero turn jumped to the top of the list.
 
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